Which router?

[RonMiller]

I used to do laminate tops etc for a living. The 700 is wonderful for that. The 1010 is a great router but if I was doing this specific task the 700 would absolutely be my go-to.

 

[sawdust-samurai]

I used to do laminate tops etc for a living. The 700 is wonderful for that. The 1010 is a great router but if I was doing this specific task the 700 would absolutely be my go-to.

Thanks Ron.  How do you feel about the 700 doing the occasional standard chamfer/round over jobs on hardwoods?

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I used to do laminate tops etc for a living. The 700 is wonderful for that. The 1010 is a great router but if I was doing this specific task the 700 would absolutely be my go-to.

Thanks Ron.  How do you feel about the 700 doing the occasional standard chamfer/round over jobs on hardwoods?

I would 100% agree. For edge work, the MFK700 is the way to go, whether that is laminate trimming or edge forming.

 

[mmeyer9024]

I own a few like many here, the festool ones can be pricey but I am happy with my 1010, good all around unit. Lots of power, very comfortable design, and the fine tune adjustments are great. The reim router I use the most often is my Milwaukee M18, a tool they knocked out of the park in my opinion. The 1010 I chose because it can run through my Festool E 26 vac, I've read the larger Festool router the 1400-or 2200 draws too much amperage to reliably run through the vac on the same circuit, that paired with the larger size and expense is why I went with the 1010.

 

[woodferret]

I used to do laminate tops etc for a living. The 700 is wonderful for that. The 1010 is a great router but if I was doing this specific task the 700 would absolutely be my go-to.

Thanks Ron.  How do you feel about the 700 doing the occasional standard chamfer/round over jobs on hardwoods?

I'm not Ron, but this was one gotcha I found when trying to use my standard CMT chamfer bit - it didn't fit.  I had to get 499799 which is a smaller dia 1" and depth of cut 7mm.  Keep that in mind if that's within your design limits, otherwise OF1010 has the bigger opening.

 

[waho6o9]

More info on the MFK 700 from HalfInchShy's web/blog

Extending the Capacity of the MFK-700http://www.halfinchshy.com/search?q=cutting+the+MFK+700+base

HTH

 

[sawdust-samurai]

Okay, I've decided to go with the MFK 700.  What bit(s) would you guys recommend for trimming the laminate I plan to put on my workbenches?  I will be doing edge banding on some of the pieces, so should I get a bit to do that and then a different (maybe a small chamfer) to trim the top sheets?

I've never done any laminate work, so I don't know what I don't know.

 

[woodbutcherbower]

I've read the larger Festool router the 1400-or 2200 draws too much amperage to reliably run through the vac on the same circuit

Not true. The power takeoff on a CT26 will comfortably handle the current draw requirements of any Festool router including the monster OF2200. I've used the above combo for many years, sometimes doing 2-3 hours nonstop machining with it on a daily basis during larger projects. No issues whatsoever.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Agreed, the OF1400 works just fine with my CT26 or CT15. I have no experience with an OF2200 (yet) but I would imagine that there would be a huge warning about it, directly from the company, if there was a conflict.

 

[Kev]

And that’s why, when you get the depth just right, you never change the bit and instead just buy another router. I have two of the Makita and one Milwaukee. The M18 is easy enough to adjust.

Exactly  [big grin] That's why I have 3 of them.
One has the traditional "bullet" type flush trim. I use it against raw surfaces
One has a "no-file" with a ball bearing. No file is a lie, you still have to file.
One has a 1/4" down cut spiral-flush trim.
The other specialty bases are on Bosch Colt corded units, because they are not needed nearly as often.
I do still have to change bits occasionally, as they do wear out, laminate is very hard. The main thing is that depth of cut is not so important for flush trim bits.

My wife would probably beat me with a stick if she heard some of my internal dialog when I justify buying a tool [eek] [big grin]

 

[Crazyraceguy]

What is this wife thing you speak of? I have no such restrictor.....obviously  [unsure]

 

[sawdust-samurai]

Just to wrap this thread up, I purchased the MFK 700 this weekend and have put it to work building my latest workbench.  So far so good with it.

 

[Ebuwan]

I used to do laminate tops etc for a living. The 700 is wonderful for that. The 1010 is a great router but if I was doing this specific task the 700 would absolutely be my go-to.

Yeah, i use the 700 way more than the other three.

 

[mino]

Not true. The power takeoff on a CT26 will comfortably handle the current draw requirements of any Festool router including the monster OF2200. I've used the above combo for many years, sometimes doing 2-3 hours nonstop machining with it on a daily basis during larger projects. No issues whatsoever.

I will add why is it that the paper ratings do not add up (for the US versions), yet it works ...

The reasons are two:

1) there is soft-start on all the Festool routers, making startup current a non-issue.
2) these routers are very efficient with full-wave electronics. They never pull their full power for prolonged periods - routers never operate under full load in the first place anyway. *)

*) The power of the motors is used only during short periods when going through a knot etc. Even with the vac at full tilt, the average load the OF 2200 + vac can still fit under the 15A average load rating this way. Even at the low US voltages.

Above does not mean any 2200 W router will work at 15A US 120V sockets with these vacs .. Nope. Not universally. But the Festool ones do.