Thomas001 said:
Hello , I own few festool tools but no sanders . About to start a stair refinish project ( white oak hiding under a carpet ) hence I would like your advise on which sander or sanders I should consider . I will be also purchasing a dust extractor either midi or ct 26 so any words of wisdom will be appreciated . Mostly I do work in my garage on the MFT but occasionally a remodel project will pop op. Thanks in advance . Thomas
Open or closed treads? It does make a difference: you'll need a small delta headed sander if you have corners. By delta I mean a proper, 90mm delta head sander the likes of a F/tool DX93E or Bosch GDA280E, not one of those reciprocating rotary sanders of the Fein type, which lack the requisite orbital action.
My preferred sanders for stairs (I've done quite a few over the years) are Metabo's SXE 400 80mm ROS & the Bosch GDA 280E/PDA240E. The former for it's small dimensions, light weight, ergonomics & gentle action, & the latter for its remarkable versatility through its extensive range of standard, extended, fine & oval finger bases, which allow access to those diabolically narrow spaces between many stringers, risers & treads.
I've tried a few other sanders along the way, too. A range of variously sized rectangular based orbitals (universally too large & too slow), Rotexes large & small (90 & 150), which are just not the right tool for the job in my opinion, being either too tall, wide and/or unruly and interchangeable bases on a linear LS130 sander for the convex nosings & right angled concacvities between treads & risers, which are just way too frustratingly slow at the task.
My ideal combo has been the above pair (Metabo & Bosch) with twin power cords, hoses & double outlet vac & power adapters connected to an extractor with the power turned significantly down. This way, for each individual tread, nosing, concavity, 3 way corner, and between balusters & newel posts the ideal sander & head is always at hand even in narrower stairwells, and multiple interchanges can be made between tools, heads & abrasives over a single rather than multiple passes. In some circumstances, a couple of treads can be done at once, but the whole staircase in its entirety is treated both progressively & sequentially, rather than over several time-wasting passes.
Having extra bayonet pads pre-loaded with different abrasive grits, and a plywood & dowel abrasive alignment template with several discs preloaded also speeds progress. A breast pocket or two of spare abrasives & a handful of preloaded delta bayonet heads (which do far less work overall) should cover a narrow flight with a standard floor rise. Expect to have your coarser abrasives heavily loaded with paint or traditional varnishes if you intend to completely strip existing finishes. You'll probably require plenty of spares. It helps to have longer power cords & hoses here. 5m seems to be an ideal combination of length to weight. I usually replace all my sander cables with 5m x 0.75mm square CSA rubber ones.
An alternative compact extractor could very well be a CTL SYS Systainer vac. I've been pretty critical of mine, especially its lack of suction variability & abysmal dust capacity, but as a lightweight stairwell combo with twinned shorter lightweight hoses & power cables it could very well be the ideal combination. Allowing safe & secure placement on a stairwell's treads, this is precisely the type of task at which the compact, non-rolling boxy little vac will excel as opposed to being the frustrating liability it is in so many other roles.
If you have open treads, then perhaps the midsize RO125 might work instead if it fits the riser voids between treads. There's nothing that can abrade with that "ideal" combination of speed & finesse better than a Rotex provided it fits. Try to resist the temptation to go for the smaller "all in one" RO90, however, which superficially at least appears to be the obvious, economical & versatile solution. Yes, it will do the job but at least for me anyway it's just too rough, ill-mannered and tiring to use in comparison to the others I've mentioned. It's so bad in fact that it can all too easily damage rather than renovate in softer, more delicate or valuable joinery. I consider it to be the very worst sander I've ever owned.
You may also find that judicious use of Bahco/Sandvik Wolfram Carbide scrapers (or their Skarsten or Linbide alternatives) may be useful on complex or delicate mouldings too if present. Only the former offers a range of different complex moulding compatible blades.