Which track saw do I need

[tlamoureux55@gmail.com]

I am considering the purchase of a track saw to build a bathroom vanity and let towel cabinet.  Not for a business just personal projects or to help family and friends.  What are your recommendations. The first project will be frameless cabinets.  Thanks in advance. 

Tom

 

[AlexThePalex]

Since you have 55 in your name, I'd recommend the Mafell MT55cc
https://www.timberwolftools.com/mafell-mt55cc-plunge-track-saw

If you want a Festool, the TS55 is also fine for what you want, though it lacks the power for some things. The Mafell is better. 

 

[woodbutcherbower]

What Alex said.

The Mafell’s the better saw. Better built, more powerful, better rails, easier blade change, a one-touch scoring function, better dust extraction via a proper fixed nozzle which doesn’t flop around causing the hose to snag on the rail, one-knob bevel adjustment, plus a few other things. I would, however, strongly recommend Festool’s 3.5m extractor hose. It’s expensive - but unbeatable. Hope you get fixed up.

 

[afish]

The thing that bugs me about the MAfell saw and what would keep me from buying it is the way it scores the material to prevent chipping.  The Mafell shifts the blade over slightly for a scoring cut but this creates a dark line for the whole cut.  That's unacceptable to me.  No mater what the scoring function isnt perfect on any tracksaw and they all have issues one way or another but I would buy either the Makita or festool unit before the mafell.  Im not brand loyal for any corded tools I buy which ever tool fits my needs best.  I have posts on here praising the Mafell DDF40 So its not a Mafell thing its a function thing.

If you go with the Festool one be sure to get the Holey LR32 rail instead of the regular one its usually only a few bucks more at time of purchase but if you ever get the LR32 later you will be happy later when you dont have to spend 150 bucks for another rail.  I own the Makita and built many cabinets with it.  I have had both Makita and festool rails.  The rubber always falling off the Festool rails is a pet peeve of mine. 

 

[Birdhunter]

Just watched a video comparing the two track saws. “Big Decision : Festool or Mafell”.

The video seems to be balanced. It does show the gap left by the Mafell scoring action.

 

[squall_line]

If you go with the Festool one be sure to get the Holey LR32 rail instead of the regular one its usually only a few bucks more at time of purchase but if you ever get the LR32 later you will be happy later when you dont have to spend 150 bucks for another rail.

The rail with the holes in it should be the same price as the one without.

As of this moment, the FS 1400/2 and the FS 1400/2 LR32 (holey version) are both $145 USD.

The longer LR32 rail is a 2424, which is the only other length available for a LR32/holey rail.  My understanding/best guess is that its length is designed to be able to fit within the interior of an 8' cabinet, compared to the FS 2700 regular rail.

And there are getting to be more and more third party accessories that use the "holey" rail now, too, thanks to additive manufacturing and innovative independent companies, so you may not even need the full up expensive LR32 set from Festool to take advantage of the 32mm system in the future.

 

[woodbutcherbower]

Everyone who's mentioned the 0.1mm shadow line left by the Mafell's scoring function is 100% correct. So I never use it. But how to achieve the perfect, zero-breakout scoring cut on delicate material (laminated countertops, pre-finished or veneered panels etc.)?

Set the plunge depth to 2mm, start at the far end of the cut, and run the saw backwards down the rail towards you. The cut is always laser-perfect since the blades's teeth are cutting downwards into the face of the material rather than bursting up through it.

This 'teeth into the face' technique is exactly the reason why the old-school, pre-plunge saw joiners would always cut this kind of material with it placed upside-down on the bench or the sawhorses.

I've been doing this for ten years, and for thousands of cuts. Works for every plunge saw. Works every time.

 

[afish]

Im not going to guess Festools thinking on the 2424 LR32 rail but it was a bad not to make it 2700 so a person only need one long rail.  I have made more than a few 8' cabs with a single 1400 rail. I didn't want 2 long rails.  The festool router is what really sends the LR32 cost beyond what most are willing to spend.  Many people probably already have 1 or more routers and might not need or want to spend another $500 on a redundant router.  If you already have a holey rail and router the LR32 kit for around 250 is really a good bargain in Festool land.

The Makita has the easiest/best scoring system in my opinion and the biggest reason I bought it.  However, it uses slightly odd size blade so if you try to use some of the 3rd party blade offerings the little detent scoring button no longer functions.  It would be nice if there was a 2 stop setting similar to how Mafell did the 2 stops on the DDF40 so a person could adjust the depth of the score cut independently of the full depth of cut. If Mafell would have done that with with their track saw it would have been killer, instead of that funky side step deal.  Im not a fan of changing the depth setting stop between score and cut but the plunge action of tracksaw needs some type of positive stop.  On the other hand with a traditional circular saw I was taught and never adjust the depth of cut on the saw and just angle the saw and use to toe of the base. The Makita is a little sensitive any deviation or letting up the saw mid cut will stop it.  It takes a minute to get used to but once you do its not an issue. 

All 3 will build cabinets without issue.  cutting thick, hard, stock will test the power.  Im sure all 3 have their own little quirks but Im not a fan of the mafell side step thats a deal killer for me.     

 

[Chainring]

The one thing not addressed in the thread is OP's location. If in the US, that Mafell is a whole lot more money and considering OP is a hobbyist, that bit of difference gained might not be worth it.

 

[Cheese]

The one thing not addressed in the thread is OP's location. If in the US, that Mafell is a whole lot more money and considering OP is a hobbyist, that bit of difference gained might not be worth it.

Hobbyist or not, the Mafell is worth the extra money. Until you’ve used one you will not understand the attraction. Use one once and you’ll immediately get it.

 

[Chainring]

Hobbyist or not, the Mafell is worth the extra money. Until you’ve used one you will not understand the attraction. Use one once and you’ll immediately get it.

There's always something better. The grass is always greener.

When is good enough? At some point, there's diminishing returns.

 

[TJM]

Sorry Im late to this thread. Festool's new TSC 55 KEB is really a step up from the TS 55 with thinner blade and alot more power.

 

[VirTERM]

The new TS-55 F with 1.8mm kerf also performs much better.

 

[tiralie]

I am considering the purchase of a track saw to build a bathroom vanity and let towel cabinet.  Not for a business just personal projects or to help family and friends.  What are your recommendations. The first project will be frameless cabinets.  Thanks in advance. 

Festool cordless.

 

[woodbutcherbower]

Since the OP hasn’t revisited his thread since September last year, I’m guessing he got fixed up. Nice of him to come back and thank everyone for their input.

Oh. Wait ….. He didn’t.

 

[Ebuwan]

Since the OP hasn’t revisited his thread since September last year, I’m guessing he got fixed up. Nice of him to come back and thank everyone for their input.

Oh. Wait ….. He didn’t.

LOL

I went the new Festool TS55 Cordless; breaking down ply in the driveway with just the dust bag attached is a dream. I felt my life change, haha.

I also have a TS75 for bigger stuff too, but thats only if i can't use the 55 for some reason.