White Cabinets and trim. BM Advance.

[Len Coleman]

Wife wants white cabinets and trim.  With the reviews I have seen was thinking of using BM advance but not sure on the primer to use and if a poly topcoat is needed.  Will use a Fuji mini mite 4 to spray with.  A detailed work sequence would be super.

thanks
Len

 

[peter halle]

Len,

Hopefully Scott B. will see this.  He helped me out with questions I had with Advance, but honestly I forgot what he told me. [eek]

Peter

 

[tjbnwi]

Sherwin Williams Wall and Wood.

Tom

 

[tjbnwi]

Are you miking new cabinets or refinishing? What are we starting with?

Tom

 

[Scott B.]

Len,

Hopefully Scott B. will see this.  He helped me out with questions I had with Advance, but honestly I forgot what he told me. [eek]

Peter

I forget what I told you to! Sometimes it is best that way, everything has pretty much changed since then anyways!

 

[tjbnwi]

Sucks getting old [big grin]

Tom

 

[Len Coleman]

cabinets are being made, 18mm BB, ace frames are primarily alder but might be some poplar in there too.

 

[tjbnwi]

Poplar for the FF will be fine.

BM probably has something similar to WW. Sand boxes to 180, spray a coat of WW, sand 320, spray second coat, sand 320. Spray top coat. KemAqua Plus can be tinted, it is a nice finish.

Door and drawer front construction?

Tom

 

[tjbnwi]

Which gun and what tips do you have for your MM4?

Tom

 

[Scott B.]

Sucks getting old [big grin]

Tom

I know. I am starting to get some gray hair.  [embarassed]

 

[Len Coleman]

I have the 3 and 4 air caps, was planning on using the 4 with the T70 gun. Doors are shaker panels, drawers not made yet but something simple to match the doors.  

Does the SW WW need water thinning and also something similiar to floetrol?

and I have a lot of grey as well!

 

[fidelfs]

If you use BM advance, be ready for a long cure time.  It takes several days before you could sand and apply the next coat.  A week is a safe bet.

It is an amazing paint, but that is the drawback in my opinion.

 

[tjbnwi]

I have the 3 and 4 air caps, was planning on using the 4 with the T70 gun. Doors are shaker panels, drawers not made yet but something simple to match the doors.  

Does the SW WW need water thinning and also something similiar to floetrol?

and I have a lot of grey as well!

Order the 5&6 air caps and tips. You'll need the 6 for the primer.

For the I've lost count number of times-Flotrol is not a thinner, it is an extender. Any thinning should be done with distiller water. Find your Ford 4 cup, you need about 40 seconds. Make sure you strain the products.

Watch the build on the door panels at the rail and style edges. To much build and it may crack. Using Spaceballs will help in preventing this.

Tom

 

[Len Coleman]

Thanks, I understand to dilute with distilled water and that floetrol is an extender.  Do you need floetrol with either the BM advance or SW product at all or do they suggest a similair branded extender?

 

[fidelfs]

I called BM and they told me not to use floetrol at all. It will change the paint.  Only use water.

The BM customer service is really good, give it a call.

 

[tjbnwi]

Your weather, spray environment and the product will determine if you need an extender. Some days you may, some days you may not.  

I'm not real familiar with BMW products, I know the Aura line has its own mixing agents. Not sure about the other lines of product. I've heard nothing but very good things about the Advance line.

SW has their Cashmire line which is also very good.

Last week I shot SW Super Paint through my Fugi XPS  (Q4 turbine) unthinned. Used a #5 tip and air cap. It sprayed very well. Just wanted to try it without the pressure pot.

Mix the paints with a propeller type mixer chucked in a drill.

Tom

 

[Scott B.]

I shot Advance most recently on some cabinet doors for a bathroom, using a G15 gun on the Graco Merkur. Prior to that I had shot it with handhelds as well as HVLP.

It is a very nice finish. The downside is that it is a very slow dry, and even dreadfully slower cure. Great finish in the end, but in my mind if I am waiting that long in process, I might as well be using oil, which is still a little more desirable finish. Aside from that, Advance is a nice, and relatively thin, viscosity. It flows really nice through any gun.

With Advance or any of these ultra premium waterborne, it is not necessary to use any kind of extender (fluotrol, etc). If you spray to proper mil thickness, they lay down before they tack up, so there is no need to assist with leveling.

The real reason not to is because it messes with the dried sheen, which is very undesirable.

 

[NAS]

The best I have found is the Sherwin Williams KemAqua

http://oem.sherwin-williams.com/us/eng/oem/products/sherwood_kem_aqua_plus_white/?referringCategory=categories/wood/finishes_topcoats/

We use a shellac based white primer (wax free) it dries fast.  No thinninh is required

the KemAqua is easy to use, durable and forgivable during application and is thin and ready to spray right out of the can.

 

[finefinish]

for those that have used it i have a question
im having a similar issue with bmadvance. its been 8 days now and the coating still seems soft. How many days did it take to fully cure to a hard finish.
the tech sheet says it  develops "over time" which seems odd to me
thanks for any help.

 

[gjh119]

Great advice here!!!! Not to steal the thread, I have a question....
Poplar face frames, mdf raised panel doors with poplar. I have an Apollo sprayer, what would you guys recommend for priming the wood (poplar & MDF) and then final coat.
I'm a BM guy, most of the interior of house is painted with BM
Thank you!

And if I step on anyones toes, I apoligize...