Why a 1mm deflection with Festool Parallel Edge Guides?

[Michael Kellough]

The track saw bears against the right side of the top spine of the track so the kerf will always be the same distance from the spine regardless of what the splinter guard indicates. *

The splinter guard and kerf will only be congruent for a few or several cuts after the initial trimming, depending on the blade and consistency of the stock being cut.

* Except for the Panther blade. Not even a hard measurement from the the track spine will reliably predict what that wild blade will do. And after making a cut with the Panther the splinter guard will no longer be a useful indicator for any blade.

[member=76885]MacBoy[/member] the splinter guard at the beginning and end of the rails is often the least reliable indicator of the kerf since they are often over or under trimmed by the saw. To be trimmed correctly both jibs of the saw base have to be on the track spine (and properly adjusted). When the track is a little short for the task the saw is often backed up such that the rear jib is off the spine. And when the front of the saw runs off the end of the track before the blade is stopped that end of the splinter guard is over or under trimmed as well. Under trimming of the splinter guard is only possible when the splinter guard is initially trimmed. From then on the strip is subject to over trimming which will continue until no part of the strip reaches the actual kerf.

 

[rmwarren]

I wonder if the TSO guide rail connectors would resolve any problems with the rails shifting at the connection?

[member=59331]TSO Products[/member] ?

RMW

 

[afish]

Just throwing it out there but the material can do some strange things when cut too.  However, for long cuts in the shop the 3000 rail is the way to go.  If I needed to transport it that would be a different story but otherwise the 3000 rail is what I always used. 

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Just throwing it out there but the material can do some strange things when cut too.  However, for long cuts in the shop the 3000 rail is the way to go.  If I needed to transport it that would be a different story but otherwise the 3000 rail is what I always used.

This is absolutely true. When the tension is released by cutting, even fairly wide pieces of sheet goods can move. Crook, bow, or twist. Once in a while, when cutting plywood on the beam saw, the bow of the off-cut parts will trip the safety lever.
I'm a huge advocate for the FS3000, rather than joining rails, but they are very impractical for outside-the-shop use.  This is even more important with a router.

 

[Lincoln]

Yes, the Maffel/Bosch rails are even worse on this, being narrower .. but better in a way too by not having a /working/ anti-slip capability ..

Do you think the Mafell rails just sit on bare aluminium? They have x2 anti-slip strips. Plus, you can actually join them and they remain straight.

That "/working/" snide mark was for a reason.

The anti-slip function of the Festool rails is just incomparable to the narrow rubber strips on the Maffel/Bosch system. This is a blessing in normal use, but can be a negative when you want to prevent tension in the placed rail. It just grips too much at times. Especially to smooth surfaces like melamine etc.

"Incomparable" as in 10x (and more) better function of the FS/2 strips. This is not just observation but comes from simple physics. The contact patch for the rubber strips is so small there is simply no way it can work as well as the full-width Festool strips.

By the way most non-Festool rails (Makita, Triton ...) are as weak as Maffel since they waste the big surface by using a cheapo slippery foam. FS/2 rails are in a class of their own on this. At times to their detriment even.

With the FS/2 tracks, one does not need to clamp even with dusty surfaces like a dirty MDF etc. The clamps are only needed for special work like mittered cuts etc. This is not the case with any of the other tracks. Be it by design /Maffel/ or by the vendor cheapening out on the foams.

That is why many people do not think about it - especially those who developed their workflows on non-Festool aka "non-sticking" tracks ...

Aerofix fixes all track problems. If it was a Festool product, I have no doubt it would be one of the most popular/talked about accessories on here.
Get yourself some Mafell tracks Mino, you know you want to [smile]

 

[petar73]

I always join the rails without a gap between and never ever (more than 7 years) had a deflection. I am using the old original festool connectors and as long as the ends of the rails are straight and 90 degrees it is straight forward joint every time.

 

[mino]

Aerofix fixes all track problems. If it was a Festool product, I have no doubt it would be one of the most popular/talked about accessories on here.
Get yourself some Mafell tracks Mino, you know you want to [smile]

I would not write what I wrote if I did not have experience with the Maffel tracks (true, in a Bosch livery). As well as Makita, Triton, a couple no-names in addition to the FS/2s.

I was experimenting when equiping our community shop and wanted to avoid the (expensive) FS/2s initially. All I got from the experiments was to stick with Festool and a couple hundred euros wasted on the other stuff which had to be sold off at a loss ...

Aerofix is great. Absolutely. And it is unique for some use cases (like the KP series rails Festool had to introduce). If I was a pro doing installs, I would seriously consider it.

But 99% of the time one does not need any clamping with FS/2. So, in this way, most of the time Aerofix becomes a fix of a limitation the FS/2 system does not have.

ADD:
We stuck to FS/2 versus Maffel/Bosch because of the accessories and stiffness and versus FS/2 clones because of the accuracy. That shop it is 99% non-production use, so clamping need was not be a concern. It is just a nice benefit.

 

[tjbnwi]

If the rails are older and have some mileage on them it may be time to change the grip strips. We change the strips on the daily use rails every 6 months.

My process for isolating the issue would be to snap very fine lines.

At the waste edge, snap lines 10mm and 15 mm off the edge. Place the joined rails on the 10 mm line. If the rails are joined properly the anti splinter strip will align along the full length of the rail. If the rails center do not align to the snapped line adjust the rails to the line. Make the cut, you should have equal distance from the cut to the 15mm line along the length of the cut. Visually, if it is off 1mm you should be able to see. If the cut is closer to the line in the center you are side thrusting the rail in, if the center measurement is larger, you are side thrusting the rail to you.

Hook the edge of the cut edge mark and snap lines at 146mm and 151mm, place the rail on the 151 mark. Again the rail should follow the line the full length of the a rail. If the rail does not follow the line it has shifted when moved, realign the joint to the line. Make the cut. Measure back to the 146mm line, the distance should be the same along the full length of the cut.

If the cut at the waste side was straight and the cut at the keep side is proud in the center you are side thrusting the rail. Practice should eliminate this problem.

By doing the above you have set the rail in the two different orientations.

To verify the overall width of the piece, place a mark at the center of the cut long edges. Measure the center with the edge of the tape along the marks. Measuring with the tape aligned to the marks will eliminate error if the tape is angled.

Tom

 

[tjbnwi]

Need to add to above.

If you did everything above and you know your technique was correct, the piece may have expanded in the center, it happens. Wait a few hours and remeasure.

You can also, without removing the saw from the rail, bring the saw back to the start of the rail and recut, if it only cuts the center it is an indication the center has expanded. You piece may be a little small after the sheet settles.

Finally, 1mm only in the center, over the length of the piece shown (I’m assuming 96-97”?) I would not be to concerned with.

Tom

 

[mino]

If the rails are older and have some mileage on them it may be time to change the grip strips. We change the strips on the daily use rails every 6 months.
...

About to get into this - any practical hint you can share on removing the "old" strips?

They stick to the rails like crazy and I am a bit nervous in starting and being left with a painful job .. still remember with disdain the removal of the glue from the Makita's when we wanted to use them with Festool anti-splinter strips.

 

[tjbnwi]

If the rails are older and have some mileage on them it may be time to change the grip strips. We change the strips on the daily use rails every 6 months.
...

About to get into this - any practical hint you can share on removing the "old" strips?

They stick to the rails like crazy and I am a bit nervous in starting and being left with a painful job .. still remember with disdain the removal of the glue from the Makita's when we wanted to use them with Festool anti-splinter strips.

A sharp 1/2” wood chisel will peel the strip.

Following best safety, Acetone on the area the strip goes, scrape off glue residue. Wipe area with Acetone.

Be careful not to stretch the strip as you apply it.

Tom

 

[Ebuwan]

You can use one strip a couple times, just bump it out a little bit and press it back on; i'm just careful not to let the track rest on the splintergard when moving it around, etc, which i do with a brand new strip anyway.

For long cuts for me, i've just settled on ALWAYS clamping it; i use the quick clamps, you can get them most of the way there with one hand while holding the track. Then I run to the other end, clamp that end, then re-check the first end parallel guide. It's annoying as hell, but it's the method i've found to best get consistent results.

I've tried just taking the parallel guides (I have the WP ones, but same idea), just cutting, pushing against new edge, then cut again quick, and it never stays perfect consistent for me, UNLESS I have another person with me to help give the guides a little pressure against the work piece.

TOOL IDEA; Festool "auto" clamps, with batteries or whatever, with bluetooth, that while i'm holding the guides against the long edge, i can remotely clamp it all; i'd buy something like that in a heart beat! Tracks don't need super tight clamping pressure.

 

[Lincoln]

You can use one strip a couple times, just bump it out a little bit and press it back on; i'm just careful not to let the track rest on the splintergard when moving it around, etc, which i do with a brand new strip anyway.

For long cuts for me, i've just settled on ALWAYS clamping it; i use the quick clamps, you can get them most of the way there with one hand while holding the track. Then I run to the other end, clamp that end, then re-check the first end parallel guide. It's annoying as heck, but it's the method i've found to best get consistent results.

I've tried just taking the parallel guides (I have the WP ones, but same idea), just cutting, pushing against new edge, then cut again quick, and it never stays perfect consistent for me, UNLESS I have another person with me to help give the guides a little pressure against the work piece.

TOOL IDEA; Festool "auto" clamps, with batteries or whatever, with bluetooth, that while i'm holding the guides against the long edge, i can remotely clamp it all; i'd buy something like that in a heart beat! Tracks don't need super tight clamping pressure.

https://www.timberwolftools.com/mafell-aerofix-f-af-1-suction-clamping-system