Why no 7MM Dominos?

Sometimewoodworker said:
Crazyraceguy said:
I just see it as a misapplication of the Tensos. The really don't have any lateral strength, the flexible fingers are not tight in the space, like a Domino would be. They are not intended to do that, so it's not surprising that they don't. They do clamp nice and tight, but they just won't take lateral movement.
It wasn’t a miss application but was a rather funny demonstration of the total lack of lateral holding power. Peter acknowledged that it wasn’t how they are designed to be strong but the total lack is very useful for prospective users.

As to clamping nice and tight that is not his experience he found he needed clamps which means that they do not even do the job they are designed to do.

I was not seriously considering buying that tool but now I am absolutely sure I don’t want one. My DF500 can do everything it can and far more, including a fixing similar to the Clamex

It has to be an adjustment thing then, because I have no trouble at all getting them to pull together tight. Like I said before, if you have a few Dominos in there too, the parts can be quite difficult to separate again. I have put literally dozens of architectural wall panels together with this combination.
As you can imagine, it is not easy to pull panels together when they are as large as 4' x 10'. Tenso connectors will. French cleats hold them up and they snap tight.
Clamex are great too, but you have to be able to get to the back side to turn the cam (or cover the hole in some way)
 
Crazyraceguy said:
It has to be an adjustment thing then, because I have no trouble at all getting them to pull together tight. Like I said before, if you have a few Dominos in there too, the parts can be quite difficult to separate again.
I can only quote Peter as I have no access to one, however he is an extremely experienced professional wood worker and he said that he tried every adjustment possible, and with the amount it costs I don’t doubt that he did, and could not get it to clamp tight enough for his glue joints. If you have seen his work he is absolutely no neophyte and requires good clamping strength (it is after all exactly what the Tenso is sold for) while the glue sets up. He could not achieve that with the Tenso and had to use clamps which totally defeats the whole raison d'être doesn’t it?

Also if it is possible to adjust it so it actually functions (unproven) it should be simple to get it right, so even more reasons for me to avoid a white elephant.

As to the Domino the only way I will do dry fit ups with them is with sets of sanded down Dominos as they hold so tightly with regular Dominos that I damage the workpieces taking them apart DAMHIKT so it’s not at all surprising that with a few you have difficulty taking your joints apart. So much so that glue seems almost an option rather than a requirement, of course I always glue as well and often use pocket screws as a belt, braces, and knicker elastic overkill approach.
 
The point is that the Dominos don't allow you to bend the joint sideways to get it apart, you have to pull straight on them, it's not easy.

Obviously, there was no glue in that situation, and he was putting stress in the worst possible direction.

There is plenty of adjustment to the machine, they even come in different sizes, though the 14mm is the most common.

This is no criticism of Peter, I have watched his channel for years. He is quite entertaining and does/did the part of the job that I dislike the most, installs. Site work, especially residential is rough.

Everyone is different and has different experiences with specific tools or techniques. It's too bad that he is unhappy with it, but they wouldn't sell like they do if everyone's experience was the same. The only compliant I ever heard before was the cost.
 
ChuckS said:
Coen, Just use a drilling guide - shop-made or bought ($15 US or less):
https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/festool-how-to/entry-doors-with-a-domino-500/msg653755/#msg653755

Start with one end of the mortise, then the other end, and the rest with overlapping boring -- in the same manner you use a mortiser.

I've used this method in two projects so far, accounting for less than 0.1% of all the mortises ever made with the Domino Joiner.

I did this recently to fix a face frame piece that pulled off of a bookshelf that was originally pin-nailed in place.  I used a 4 mm domino in each side, but because of other parts of the bookcase still in the way, I had to use a drill for the entire mortise on the bookcase side of the equation.

I could have probably done it more cleanly and elegantly, but it's all hidden behind the facade and glued up; I doubt it will ever see the light of day again.

Also, lesson learned on plunging into the face of 14mm stock; you're better off going 5 mm into the face and 15 into the carcass than 10 and 10, especially if there's any decorative relief on the face.  Of course, the 4x20 dominoes are actually 4x18, but that's another story entirely...
 
squall_line said:
Also, lesson learned on plunging into the face of 14mm stock; you're better off going 5 mm into the face and 15 into the carcass than 10 and 10, especially if there's any decorative relief on the face.  Of course, the 4x20 dominoes are actually 4x18, but that's another story entirely...

Off-setting mortices and more importantly knowing when to do it seems to be a hard learned lesson with most new Domino users. Even if you don't actually cut through, you can still get too close to the surface and have issues with the glue forcing its way out through the grain. Been there
 
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