Widening a cabinet

[crosby1612]

Hello, I need some input from the experts on this.

I need to widen a cabinet by 1/2" or so to fit an undercounter wine cooler. I'll cut the into frame piece that separates the left side cabinet from the right side cabinet.  I can't remove the cabinet as under the granite countertop, so I need to do this in place.

Best way to enlarge the opening by 1/2"?  Jigsaw or oscillating saw?  If oscillating, what blade should I use?

Any help is much appreciated!  Thanks!

 

[mrFinpgh]

Is the space occupied?

I would probably do this with a straightedge, trim router and a flush trim bit, taking it in 2 or 3 passes.  Make sure to put a stop on the ends.    Clean up the corners with a chisel.

Oscillating tool would work but the cut probably won't be great over 24+".  Jigsaw would be good but again probably not a finished quality cut.

 

[crosby1612]

No, the space isn't occupied. I was thinking oscillating saw with half moon blade and a straightedge to keep me in line? Score it first so I have a clean cut?

 

[AlexThePalex]

No, the space isn't occupied. I was thinking oscillating saw with half moon blade and a straightedge to keep me in line? Score it first so I have a clean cut?

That's how I would do it.

 

[Cheese]

I was thinking oscillating saw with half moon blade and a straightedge to keep me in line? Score it first so I have a clean cut?

If this were my project, I'd use a straight piece of 3/4" clamped to the face frame, and use a short blade in a Sawzall. Place the shoe of the Sawzall on the 3/4" piece and use it as both a blade guide and a piece to prevent surface marks on the face frame. It will also help in reducing edge splintering.

If you decide to use a Fein/Vecturo, be careful because if that face frame is oak or maple the half moon blade will burn the wood. You have to proceed slowly to keep the blade cool.

For a few years Fein manufactured "Faulk" blades to reduce the burning of the wood. They worked well if you can still find one.

 

[Oldwood]

I would first look to see if the centre style could be removed. If you look at the back it might be pocket screwed in and you could unscrew it and give it a twist to see if it will come free. They will probably have some glue on it but because it is end grain it should not hold too well. Then you could rip and replace the piece. If they are dowelled or tenoned I would fasten a temporary piece on the back that would be a guide for a bearing on a flush trim bit. You could jig saw it close to the line before routing to save time. I would climb cut to avoid tear out until the final pass. You will need to clean up the ends with a sharp chisel.

That is how I would do it but of course there are many other ways to do it.

 

[Alanbach]

Put a dozen woodworkers in a room, give them a problem then listen to twelve different ways to fix it. Their solutions probably differ based on their experience, their tools, their skill set / comfort zone, etc..

If the cabinet is paint grade I would probably take my circular saw with a nice crosscut blade and cut the stile right out leaving the stub at the rail just a tiny bit proud and sand flat. Then I would make a new stile to the width I needed and install it with glue and pocket screws.

 

[Oldwood]

Put a dozen woodworkers in a room, give them a problem then listen to twelve different ways to fix it. Their solutions probably differ based on their experience, their tools, their skill set / comfort zone, etc..

I will add to that, most those solutions will work just fine.  [tongue]

My cousin is a plumber. He showed up to install a dishwasher and there was no opening for it. The homeowner said don't you have a saw? He said I have a chain saw. She said will that work. He said I guess it will and it did. I never saw the job and I am sure it was not fine woodworking but the customer was happy.

 

[RKA]

I have to agree with cheese’s comment.  Usually those half moon blades have very fine teeth.  If so they will clog with wood dust and won’t cut well including the possibility of burning mentioned. 

Honestly it depends on what tools you have available to you.  I wouldn’t be able to leave a finish I would be happy with with either the jigsaw or multitool.  My inclination would be jigsaw within 1/8” of your final, then follow up with a small router and bearing guided bit mentioned above and chisel the corners the router can’t do.  If you have trouble clamping the straight edge for the router, place blue masking tape on the cabinet and the corresponding area under your straightedge and put CA glue on the tape and put the straightedge on the cabinet until the glue sets.  That will be enough to hold your guide in place.

 

[Bob D.]

"I would first look to see if the centre style could be removed."

This was my thought too. Use a MultiMaster/Vecturo and cut it free if possible without damaging or affecting the look from outside. Then trim the width as needed and reinstall.

Does this wine cooler sit on the floor or is it made to mount inside the cabinet.

 

[Svar]

Another one for trying to remove, if not - trim router.
24" long rip cut in 3/4" thick solid wood with osculating tool will take forever. I'd take hand saw over that.

 

[jeh]

Mark your line and rough kit with a jig saw leaving a small amount of material and then go back and use your rail with a small bit to do the clean up.

Alternatively you use your track and do all but the start and end by plunging in making sure not to hit the bottom rail when starting or the top rail when finishing up the cut. Then you use a hand saw or a jig saw to finish the cut.

If you use the router method you will still have to cut out the remainder.

Easiest is to remove the stile. If it is attached to the rest of the frame with pocket screws it might be easy. You probably could use a spreader to crack the glue joint. Lots of options.

 

[AlexThePalex]

Another one for trying to remove, if not - trim router.
24" long rip cut in 3/4" thick solid wood with osculating tool will take forever. I'd take hand saw over that.

No it won't, will take just a few minutes.

I can't believe all these "remove" comments, you turn a simple and quick job into an hour's work with a worse result.

 

[DeformedTree]

I'd consider making a temp frame that fits in the opening, to that attach vertical strips, or maybe a rail depending on tools available. Set it up to run a router, either with top bearing against the vert. stripe, or have the router use the rail, run a tall straight bit that will let you get in and trim the cabinets back.  Straight line and only have a tiny spot at the top just under the counter top you can't get with router. Do that by hand, you can't see it from above as the counter will hide any error.

I've hacked up cabinets in place to do similar things, I understand the problem of getting any kind of clean/straight cut. I know ways not to do it. Good thing I was doing it to cabinets that were not long for this world, so ugly didn't matter.

 

[tomp]

I would go with clamping on a board roughing it close to size with a jig saw and then using a trim router with a top-bearing bit to get to finished size. You will have to use a chisel to finish off the ends. One question - will the door be reused or does the wine cooler replace it. If it's going to be reused, is there enough overhang on the door to cover the 1/2" material that was removed?

 

[FestitaMakool]

I might be far off what some consider comfortable here, and I’m no hand saw expert either, but a Japanese saw with plunge tip would cutout near the finish of a machine saw.
I have used these for many a fine woodworking projects: (A light sanding with fine grit usually is all it need afterwards)