Widening a rabbet / rebate

[VesaS]

I have to widen a rebate. It is inside of a piece (frame) so I can’t use router / table in normal way.
Can I route it by placing that piece between table fence and bit. Which way I should move the piece?
Or is it better to use handheld router instead?

Widening is small, only 2 mm thick by 12 mm height. Measured once..

Vesa

 

[waho6o9]

Sounds like a job for hand planes.

 

[jtwood]

I agree with using a hand plane for this.
Putting the piece between the bit and a router table fence is  asking for trouble.  The piece is likely to get launched to the side as there is no way to feed it through slowly.  The bit, spinning at probably 6,000 rpm or more, will grab it and launch it.   
If a hand-held router will fit, then that is the alternative to the hand plane.

A photo of the piece you are working with might help to narrow down the possibilities.

Steve

 

[VesaS]

There are only couple of problems with hand planes. I don't have planes or skills to use them.  [crying]

I did have suitable router bit, so problem solved. It was easy to do on router table.
View attachment 1
This is not much used and I kinda forgot that. It's a set with several bearings.

Vesa

 

[sancho57]

Do you have a fence for your router with a micro adj? Ifs a 1010 you can buy a micro adj for the fence. That should work.

 

[semenza]

Trouble with a router and router fence is that I think this is inside the frame so there will be a lot left at the ends of the cut.

I don't know what increments are available in metric for a bearing guided rabbeting bit but that would work and get fairly close to the inside corners.

Seth

 

[VesaS]

Trouble with a router and router fence is that I think this is inside the frame so there will be a lot left at the ends of the cut.

I don't know what increments are available in metric for a bearing guided rabbeting bit but that would work and get fairly close to the inside corners.

Seth

That (bolded text) is reason I planned to use small spiral straight bit. I think it could be done by placing frame between fence and bit, moving frame left to right. As Steve mentioned it is not trouble free approach.

I have a CMT rabbeting set, it has imperial based bearings (very odd 15,9 and 22,2 etc.) With 12,7! bearing it leaves 11,1 mm (omg) rabbet. Little chiseling on the ends and job done.

I don't have fancy things like micro-adjuster  [embarassed]
Just put bid on MFK 700 set. It may be handy in the future.

Vesa

 

[HarveyWildes]

How about a straight rule and a utility knife with a sharp blade?  If the wood is not too hard, that might work.  I've used the techniques with woods like cherry or birch.  I'd think it would be pretty iffy with stuff like hard maple, marginal with oak.

 

[semenza]

Trouble with a router and router fence is that I think this is inside the frame so there will be a lot left at the ends of the cut.

I don't know what increments are available in metric for a bearing guided rabbeting bit but that would work and get fairly close to the inside corners.

Seth

That (bolded text) is reason I planned to use small spiral straight bit. I think it could be done by placing frame between fence and bit, moving frame left to right. As Steve mentioned it is not trouble free approach.

I have a CMT rabbeting set, it has imperial based bearings (very odd 15,9 and 22,2 etc.) With 12,7! bearing it leaves 11,1 mm (omg) rabbet. Little chiseling on the ends and job done.

I don't have fancy things like micro-adjuster  [embarassed]
Just put bid on MFK 700 set. It may be handy in the future.

Vesa

Yeah, I have the large CMT set. I take it that none of them work out to remove 2mm. Not sure if it is the same bit with the different sets but if so you might be able to just get the collar that you need if one of them works out.  Does it need to be exactly 2mm?

Here is a link that shows the full size range chart https://www.routerbitworld.com/CMT-835-503-11-The-Grand-Rabbet-Set-p/cmt 835.503.11.htm Click on the chart picture to enlarge it.

Seth