Will the copier scanning set work for this?

[rnt80]

The upper portion of this piece will have a beaded face frame.  I have Lee Valley scraper that I've used in the past for curved applications (it's what I used for my son's shield) but I'm wondering if the copier scanning set would work for this.  I know if wouldn't be able to get into the corners with a beading bit but I could finish that up by hand.  I have all the other pieces for my 1010 in order to run it horizontally, I'd just need the scanning set.

 

[rnt80]

No thoughts on this?  I'm pretty sure it will work but I was hoping to hear from someone that has the scanning set and was willing to chime in.

 

[JJ Wavra]

I am not quite following where you want to put the bead but on all the upper parts it will not help unless the bead is on the inside because the router base is still flat and will not match the curve.

JJ

 

[rnt80]

The bead will be on the inside edge of the face frame. I have the necessary pieces in order to run my 1010 in a horizontal position.  The bearing on the bit will allow me to reference the bit off the surface of the face frame.  I'm assuming the scanning set will allow me to reference the router off the edge of the face frame and therefore follow the contours of the curves.

 

[JJ Wavra]

I think that  I am following you now.  In a way you want the 1010 to work sort of like the the mfk700 with the router horizontal and the there being a bearing to guide you.  The scanning copying set up actually attaches to the angle arm and essentialy replaces the bearing on the bit.  So if you have the angle arm on along with the edging plate there is no way to use the scanning set unless you make a part to hold it on the router another place.  I still think you have to take into account that the base will not allow you to meet the curves with the router in a horizontal position.  Even if you plunge the bit really far out, which is not much on the 1010, the curves especially concave will cause a problem.

JJ

If you want I can try and send you a picture of the scanning/copy set up I am not too tech savvy though. 

 

[rnt80]

I think that  I am following you now.  In a way you want the 1010 to work sort of like the the mfk700 with the router horizontal and the there being a bearing to guide you.  The scanning copying set up actually attaches to the angle arm and essentialy replaces the bearing on the bit.  So if you have the angle arm on along with the edging plate there is no way to use the scanning set unless you make a part to hold it on the router another place.  I still think you have to take into account that the base will not allow you to meet the curves with the router in a horizontal position.  Even if you plunge the bit really far out, which is not much on the 1010, the curves especially concave will cause a problem.

JJ

If you want I can try and send you a picture of the scanning/copy set up I am not too tech savvy though. 

Exactly.  I was under the impression that it could work this way.  Would the mfk700 work for this application then?

 

[Brice Burrell]

Exactly.  I was under the impression that it could work this way.   Would the mfk700 work for this application then?

I really can't see a beading bit working on a curve since you won't be able to keep it perfectly perpendicular to edge. 

 

[Jay Knoll]

Russell

Can't comment on the bit but I'm really looking forward to the pictures of the build on this project!

Jay

 

[rnt80]

Exactly.  I was under the impression that it could work this way.   Would the mfk700 work for this application then?

I really can't see a beading bit working on a curve since you won't be able to keep it perfectly perpendicular to edge. 

I think you're right Brice.  The more I thought about it last night the more I realized that it would be nearly impossible to maintain a consistent bead using a router.  Guess it's back to the hand tools!

 

[MrToolJunkie]

I am not sure if something like this would work for your application -- I used this set when making crown molding and it did a great job.

http://www.cheyennesales.com/catalog/800_523.htm

Scot

 

[tDot]

I think you may have the correct application for the Copier Set, you just want to use the wrong bit to make it work. 

If you keep the 1010 sitting flat on the outer face of the face frame, use the copier set to follow the radius of the doors, and a router bit that cuts a V-Groove or ovolo parallel to the radius.  You can also get bits that cut a groove with sides shaped like an ovolo but it comes to a point, not a flat.  Two passes would shape both sides of a bead.

This of course wouldn't give you a true bead sitting beside a square shoulder, but it would be very close.  I hope that explanation makes sense. 

 

[Brice Burrell]

I think you may have the correct application for the Copier Set, you just want to use the wrong bit to make it work. 

If you keep the 1010 sitting flat on the outer face of the face frame, use the copier set to follow the radius of the doors, and a router bit that cuts a V-Groove or ovolo parallel to the radius.  You can also get bits that cut a groove with sides shaped like an ovolo but it comes to a point, not a flat.  Two passes would shape both sides of a bead.

This of course wouldn't give you a true bead sitting beside a square shoulder, but it would be very close.  I hope that explanation makes sense. 

Now you're getting somewhere.

 

[JJ Wavra]

I think you may have the correct application for the Copier Set, you just want to use the wrong bit to make it work. 

If you keep the 1010 sitting flat on the outer face of the face frame, use the copier set to follow the radius of the doors, and a router bit that cuts a V-Groove or ovolo parallel to the radius.  You can also get bits that cut a groove with sides shaped like an ovolo but it comes to a point, not a flat.  Two passes would shape both sides of a bead.

This of course wouldn't give you a true bead sitting beside a square shoulder, but it would be very close.  I hope that explanation makes sense. 

I almost suggested the same thing.  However, with the amount of work involved in just making the piece I would not want to risk using a router.  I do something similar to cut out chair back pieces but they do not require near the precision that a continuous bead requires.  I would just go the hand tool route. One slight movement out of perpendicular to the curve and the bead is in another place.  I have wanted make something like scanner with two bearings that are spring loaded with travel so that it would make it easier to keep the bit in constant relative position.

Looks like a fun project by the way!
JJ

 

[rnt80]

Thanks for the suggestions.  I ended up doing it all with hand tools today.  I'll try and post some pics tomorrow.