Will the domino 500 be ok for my needs?

gerardosmi

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Joined
Feb 7, 2013
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6
Hello, hobbyist here trying to find out if the 500 is the right tool for me.  I can only afford one of the Dominos, so considering the following projects, will it be ok for me:

- 9 doors for closets and bathrooms.  30" x 90" (6" frames with glass inserts)
- 2 bathroom cabinets made out of 3/4" material
- Medium dining table for 4 people
- Medium computer desk 2' deep x 7' long
- Octagonal poker table
- Large bookcase, each section about 7' tall by 3' long

I do not foresee doing proyects bigger than these, but definitely smaller, so is the 500 the right choice?  Putting 4 or more dominoes on each joint not a problem. 

Unfortunately I cannot take advantage of the 30 day period as I have to take the tool out of the US after purchase, so I will greatly appreciate your input.

Thanks in advance
 
The 500 is what you need. You can double up on larger pieces and it will let you do the smaller stuff when the need arises.  With all the 3/4 stuff you need to take a good look at the Seneca Domiplate.  I love mine.

Start with some shop stuff so you can use less expensive ply. Not that I ever put a domino in the wrong place but I have a friend who did.  ;D
 
I'd say go with the DF700 because you will need longer domino's for door construction.  It's not a matter of doubling up, it's the length that's important.  There was a custom door manufacturer that posted on here who used the DF 700 you should be able to find his reviews.  You can still build anything smaller with the DF700 but you will be limited with the DF500 for larger work like doors.  I have both Dominos and at almost 70 years old I don't find the DF700 difficult to use so don't worry about the size of the machine, it actually is excellently designed.

Jack
 
I have the 500 and have done lots of small joinery, like kitchen cab doors, drawers, cabinets, faceframes, joining panels, and a couple large hardword exterior doors (doubled up with the wider dominos). Unless I was going to do a lot of big projects, such as exterior doors, I would stick with the 500. The ability to join smaller materials, like 12mm thickness, is good with the 500, as it can use a small tenon (as small as 4mm). If I was to get into large doors or timberwork, I would get the 700.
 
Colonel, Jack, Mike. Thanks for the replies, it looks like a close call, and the size of the 700 is definitely a bit intimidating, but it does appear to be just as easy to handle as the 500.
 
Good luck in your selection and I'M SURE YOU WILL BE HAPPY whichever way you go.  Just remember that plunge depth is important for large M&T joints.

Jack
 
I have had the 500 for years and it is an awesome machine and great for a lot of furniture and other joinery jobs.  I just bought the XL a week ago, specifically for some doors I need to build and a few other large-scale projects.  This machine is a dream to use and one of Festool's engineering marvels.  I put it right up there with the OF2200 router...it is that good.  It does not feel big or awkward to me at all and the power and smoothness of the machine is great.  I was plunging 12mm full-depth mortises in no time and it was truly effortless.  I think that the depth of the mortise is important for solid door construction.

Scot
 
As pointed out up there you can do small and big with the 700, however the 500 will only do small domino's. In fact if you get the Seneca adaptor you can use all of the 500 cutters in the 700 machine.

With this in mind and the doors on your list, I'd say go 700. I have the 700 and do not find it too big or unwieldy, the handle is well placed and the balance of the machine is about right.

That said, I would still weigh up the suggestions of the 500, this is a very capable machine and to be fair, I'm not sure I've known anyone to regret either machine purchase.

 
I have the 700 and the adapters to do smaller work. Like others have said, it is a dream to use. The extra weight (which is minimal) and heft make it so smooth to operate.

Only limit I have found so far was doing 5 and 6mm bores into the middle of a case for shelves and such. You have to work off the center line to get the right cut. It is slower but was nowhere near a deal breaker for me.

I tried the 500 a year or so ago, and it is nice but I am glad I held out for the xL
 
I wish I had a project in mind that would justify buying the 700! It's a real beast!

I use my 500 for anything from small boxes to large bookcases. Everything I've built using the 500 over the past few years has managed to hang together.

Whichever Domino you buy, I'd strongly suggest ordering a Domiplate. It eliminates any chance of fence creep and you automatically center tenons in 3/4" and 1/2" sheet goods. With the 500, I use the Domiplate with the Domino upside down. I don't have a clue as to how one uses the Domiplate with the 700.

Good luck with your decision.
 
I apologize for hijacking this thread but It's related to the Domino 500 purchase decision. I was set to buy the MFT-3 table but after attending a Festool demo day at a local Woodcraft store I saw the demo on the Domino 500. Incredible. I feel like I can build anything and need to buy it (well, I really don't need too)!

It comes standard with a 5mm bit. What would be a good logical bit size to purchase next? Most of my work is 3/4 and 1/2". My choices are 4mm for 1/2" drawers and 12mm melamine (for cabinets) or 8mm for 6/4 table legs and for strength (no doors). Thank you and sorry for the hijack.
 
Is there anything special that you need to do when using the Seneca adapter for 500 cutters on the 700? Like adjust depth of mortise? Or does it just cut like a 500 when the adapter is installed.
 
grbmds said:
Is there anything special that you need to do when using the Seneca adapter for 500 cutters on the 700? Like adjust depth of mortise? Or does it just cut like a 500 when the adapter is installed.

The cut is the same. Nothing you would need to do. The adapter plus the standard bit = the depth setting on the Domino.

Love it.
 
ElCabong said:
I apologize for hijacking this thread but It's related to the Domino 500 purchase decision. I was set to buy the MFT-3 table but after attending a Festool demo day at a local Woodcraft store I saw the demo on the Domino 500. Incredible. I feel like I can build anything and need to buy it (well, I really don't need too)!

It comes standard with a 5mm bit. What would be a good logical bit size to purchase next? Most of my work is 3/4 and 1/2". My choices are 4mm for 1/2" drawers and 12mm melamine (for cabinets) or 8mm for 6/4 table legs and for strength (no doors). Thank you and sorry for the hijack.

You might want to just get the systainer for the D500 as it comes with the dominos and all of the 500 bits.
 
Thanks. I need to look closer because I thought only dominos were included in the Systainer and not the bits.
 
ElCabong said:
Thanks. I need to look closer because I thought only dominos were included in the Systainer and not the bits.

The tenon assortments come with bits...
  • 498899 has all six DF 500 tenons and all five cutters
  • 498204 has the 8mm & 10mm tenons for the DF 700 plus the two bits
  • 498205 has the 12mm & 14mm tenons for the DF 700 plus the 14mm bit

You get a 12mm bit with the machine.

Tom
 
Hey guys, thanks for all the input.  It was split as expected.  Finally decided on the 700, and I'll just tackle smaller casework with a combination of housed rabbets and the Jessem dowel jig I have.
 
One suggestion... watch HalfInchShy's Youtube video(s) on the Domino. He's got a number of great tips on calibration and technique in the videos. I found the Festool manual somewhat useless and learned a lot more watching a number of videos. For me, the best tip was to cut one side of the two pieces to be joined with the exact width hole and the other side with the next wider hole. This allows one to adjust the two pieces side-to-side for a perfect fit.

On the 500, you are supposed to change the cutting width ONLY with the machine running. I find this to be counter intuitive, but do it anyway.

I apply a thin coat of glue to about 1/4 of the tenon from the end being inserted. If I am in a big hurry, I'll drive a brad through the tenon from the side that won't show.

Also, practice on scrap wood.
 
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