Wine cabinet build in progress**build completed**

[Tayler_mann]

I decided to donate a nice piece to a local charity fundraiser for our new NICU at our hospital so they can outreach to rural communities. It will be one of the main pieces at the live auction and I am fairly excited about it. I've came to terms with the selling price being a lot under what it is worth but I've had a great time with this build.

The build is on going but rounding a halfway point. The case is made of quarter sawn beech along with the wine holders. The holders were rough cut on the bandsaw and finished with my OF 1400 and a pattern bit. The case is miter together with 10 dominos per side and the 45 was cut with my TS 55. In fact every piece of wood was machined with only Festool  except my bandsaw.

The rest of the build will be to come but the legs I'll be made of the QS beech and same with the back that will be ship lapped with a chamfer on the edges. The doors are made of 12/4 Honduran mahogany and resawn and book matched.

I will update more pictures as the build progresses.

 

[tiralie]

The build is on going but rounding a halfway point. The case is made of quarter sawn beech along with the wine holders.

The rest of the build will be to come but the legs I'll be made of the QS beech and same with the back that will be ship lapped with a chamfer on the edges. The doors are made of 12/4 Honduran mahogany and resawn and book matched.

That is going to be one nice wine cabinet...

 

[VW mick]

Looking good

Quater sawn beech is cool

 

[JCLP]

Looks great. Similar to what I built several years ago for my wine cellar. Mine were made out of select cedar and help 72 bottles each and had 8 of them. Sold them all on Kijiji last year and now the room is a drying room for when I spray.

 

[butzla]

Looks great. Similar to what I built several years ago for my wine cellar. Mine were made out of select cedar and help 72 bottles each and had 8 of them. Sold them all on Kijiji last year and now the room is a drying room for when I spray.

Nice hijack JCLP!  That would hold a year's supply of my 2 buck chucks!
Very nice cabinet, [member=42383]Tayler_mann[/member].  I'm interested in seeing some build pictures.  I need to build something similar in a built-in cabinet in my dining room.

 

[Tayler_mann]

Looks great. Similar to what I built several years ago for my wine cellar. Mine were made out of select cedar and help 72 bottles each and had 8 of them. Sold them all on Kijiji last year and now the room is a drying room for when I spray.

Nice hijack JCLP!  That would hold a year's supply of my 2 buck chucks!
Very nice cabinet, [member=42383]Tayler_mann[/member].  I'm interested in seeing some build pictures.  I need to build something similar in a built-in cabinet in my dining room.

Definant word of advice in glueing the miters with the racks dominoed in. I decided to do one miter so the top and bottom were glued and the other side was dry. Than I glued the other side with all 10 racks at the same time. This was a big mistake and led to a little less desirable of a glue line on the miter. I would glue the side with the wine racks together and than do both miter joints at the same time if I could do it over again.

With that said I'm wrapping my brain around making the mitered glue line a little better looking. Their seemed to be a glue line that appeared as I started rounding the corner with some sandpaper. It is probably about a 1/32" or less of a glue line. My plan was to chamfer all the edges however I do not want to risk doing a chamfer and uncovering a larger gap. I devised a plan to try and get rid of the glue line. I do not know how it will work so any advice greatly appreciated.

1. I will take my track saw and set it up as if I was going to slice straight down the 45 degree miter that was already there. So my blade would split the glue line equally if I were to decide to cut it.

2. The plunge on my saw would be set to roughly 3-5 mm. I would plunge and make a small grove the down the middle of the miter joint at 45 degrees.

3. Than I would rip a strip of mahogany just a little larger than the kerf of the saw blade and glue and inlay the oiece of mahogany.

Now I know also that somewhere in that joint it comes back together and there would not be any glue line as the boottom of the joint is tight inside the cabinet. So if I plunged that small cut and saw that it was tight again I would chamfer the edge and call it soup.

I've never done anything like this before so obviously I would need to try at least 3 samples or so. Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[Carl Prentiss]

Looks very nice to me. The beech fits the project well and a great cause. I'm looking forward to updates.

 

[Tayler_mann]

So the build is moving onwards with the legs for the cabinet and also I have done some tests to do a 45 degree inlay on he miter. I had some mitered offccuts of the QS beech and a small chunk of Wenge from a picture frame I made. So I ripped a 2.5 mm cut off of the wenge which for almost to perfect into the groove I cut with my TS. A picture of the is below.

He legs are mitered at 42 degrees to give it a slight bend outwards. They will sit 75mm roughly in from the edge of the cabinet and project about 10 mm past the edge of the cabinet with the 42 degree miter.

I also got the ship lapped back inserted and the bottom drilled and screwed. I screwed the bottom on so I can easily remove it finish the project with an oil rub and a lacquer top coat and assemble the back and bottom after it is fully finished.

The next part of the build will be to finish machining he legs wth a chamfer around the edges sanded and assembled to the bottom of he cabinet. I am still unsure how the legs will be getting mounted to the bottom of the cabinet. they will need to be able to move so glue is not an option of course and I do not want to see the hardware used for mounting. Screws from the bottom would be acceptable as you wouldn't see them unless you are lying on the floor. I also debated doing dominos and using a dowel to lock the tenon and still allow for the movement. Maybe a combo of both.

 

[Tayler_mann]

Finished sanding the legs tonight and they are ready for finish. I tapered the legs with the Tracksaw, which, was extremely easy to do. Put a chamfer on them and sanded all edges to 220. Took a lot of work but the Festool sanders save a lot of time. It's nice starting at 180 grit.

 

[mike_aa]

Super looking build so far!  Can't wait to see the finished product.

Thanks for sharing all your progress and photos.

It's nice that you are doing this for charity, but I also hope you get some business from people seeing your work.

Mike A.

 

[Tayler_mann]

The build continues...

I got the legs attached to the bottom after many hours of thought. I finally decided to screw it from the top and put in a false bottom and use loose fitting dominos to secure the false bottom in place. That way if there is ever an issue I can get to the problem and resolve it. I do not foresee a problem except maybe an issue with a leg getting damaged in moving it somewhere. The back is completely finished.

I now have to apply a small amount of glue and finish screwing the legs to the bottom. Than the next step is to completely sand and get all the pieces ready for finishing. Make the doors and install the hinges and carve a clasp of some kind and of course now I need to make to false bottom.

 

[KBJ]

Looks great so far, and for such a great cause. I look forward to seeing it finished and with the doors.

 

[Tayler_mann]

Got the book matched doors glued and sanded tonight and I have to say I do like the looks of them quite a lot. I finally got the finish figured out for the case and the doors. The case is going to be old masters dark mahigany penetrating stain mixed with teak oil to thin it down a bit. Than the case will get sanded to 220 and as much teak oil as it will absorb.

I'm having issues squaring my track to my MFT top with my rip dogs. It's a new I made with my CNC so I'm assuming it might be off a bit and need to make a new one.

Here's a picture of the doors...

 

[Tayler_mann]

The doors are trimmed and on the cabinet. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. The only thing that I am worried of is the cabinet was quite sturdy without the doors. Without thinking about extra leverage I figured the angle of he legs was sufficient enough. Once the doors are opened it becomes a little tippy so I may have to problem solve that. Here's a pic of where I am at so far.

 

[Shane Holland]

Love it. Suh-weeet!

 

[Holmz]

On the industrial end one can use second hand wood and4" square concrete steel mesh.
It can look good if the mesh is painted black and the wood dark.
The 4" holes make holding the bottle easy and they are slightly tipped down.

 

[bobberner]

Nice cabinet! Just curious, did you consider pocket holes and screws to attach the legs to the case? They would be hidden inside and under the case. It would save the work and material of the false bottom.

 

[Tayler_mann]

Nice cabinet! Just curious, did you consider pocket holes and screws to attach the legs to the case? They would be hidden inside and under the case. It would save the work and material of the false bottom.

I did, however, I felt like that wouldn't have been enough to hold the legs to the bottom considering there isn't a skirt to even the pressure out across the legs. Also, the material for the bottom is only 20 mm and again there is not much bite for a screw to take at that point. I also considered doing locking tenons with dowels, but again I still didn't feel like there would enough. The other option I had thought was adding two pieces of wood on each side and making a sliding dovetail, but to much work for the time I was supplied for this. I also really wanted to half blind dove tails for the cabinet but with only a month and a half to build this on top of my sign business and other projects it wouldn't work out. I also am going to add a little cool and make a pocket in the back under the bottom to hide cash, passports, etc. I had thought about that from the beginning of the design when it originally had a drawer in the bottom.

The false bottom is also going to serve as a pocket for a 3/4" plate steel counter weight as it became tippy once the heavy doors are opened. It isn't to bad unless you pull downward on the doors but I tested it with 60 lbs and it evens the cabinets weight out very nicely. Once the extra 10 lbs for the ship lapped back and 20 bottles of wine wih the most of its weight towards the back I feel it will be very solid. Fingers crossed though I should have angles the legs out a few degrees to widen the stance. I never thought about the leverage from the heavy doors when I was testing it earlier in the build before attaching the legs.

 

[bkharman]

Tayler,

Either use 270 deg swing hinges so they are along the sides when opened. Otherwise it my behest you to use tv cabinet doors that open and then slide back into the cabinet.

The cabinet looks great. Sort of like the Jetson's old TV set!

Cheers. Bryan.

 

[Tayler_mann]

Tayler,

Either use 270 deg swing hinges so they are along the sides when opened. Otherwise it my behest you to use tv cabinet doors that open and then slide back into the cabinet.

The cabinet looks great. Sort of like the Jetson's old TV set!

Cheers. Bryan.

That is hilarious my fiancé suggested that after she used it. wouldnt a time machine be nice?