Wood getting stuck on CMS TS55

[sancho57]

I do have a table saw and it's a honking big one and amazingly accurate! I also have the TS55 with a dual MFT setup. I do not have a CMS.

On my table saw, the relationship of the fence to the blade is extremely critical. I use the best measuring tools available to ensure the alignment is dead on to the extent a high quality dial indicator can measure along the full length of the fence. The blade, the table top, and the fence have to be in as perfect alignment as possible to be accurate and safe.

I don't understand the rationale behind the statement that the portion of the fence behind the blade does not have to be parallel to the blade. Perhaps, with a 2-piece fence, the section of the fence behind the blade can be set back so it doesn't contact the wood. But, it seems like one would be giving up 1/2 of the guidance available to guide the work piece.

I find that blade misalignment can cause burning and/or kickbacks.

I googled for articles explaining why I do it ( People seem to respect articles more a persons opinion) So here is a cut and pasted section from one article  explaining why I tilt out the rear of the fence

Fence Alignment

A miss-aligned rip fence, particularly one that angles towards the blade at the rear can cause burning, splintered edges and even kickbacks. Pressing the wood against the side of the blade as it is pushed through is the culprit that also accelerates wear on the teeth that can shorten their life substantially.

I like my fence to be tailed out at the rear (away from the blade) between 0.001" and 0.003". An extremely accurate dial indicator like the SuperBar, slide from the front (left) to the rear (right) of the fence is the only way to see this tiny adjustment accurately.
Click images to enlarge
While some manufacturers call for their fences to be parallel to the miter slot, experienced woodworkers frequently angle the fence away from the blade at the rear slightly, usually in the 0.001” to 0.003” range. That tiny bit of intentional miss-alignment keeps the wood free as it passes the blade and prevents it from “dragging” against the wood during the last part of the cut.

Some instruction manuals say to simply align the edge of the fence with the edge of a miter slot. While that procedure will get you close, it is not close enough. I have aligned several fences with the miter slot and then checked them with a dial indicator. Finding a fence adjusted this way with less than 0.010” of error (towards or away from the blade) was a rarity. When I am the one pushing wood through the saw, that is not acceptable.

Install the dial indicator in the (left) miter slot near the front of the table, lower the blade completely and bring the fence over to the indicator’s rod. Gently bump the fence against the rod until the needle moves through approximately ½ of a revolution around the scale and then lock the fence. This bit of preload on the dial indicator insures that it remains in contact with the fence throughout the test. Turn the indicator dial so “0” is under the needle and lock the face.

Carefully slide the dial indicator down the fence until it reaches the rear of the table. Note the difference, if any on the scale. Remember that we want the fence somewhere between parallel to the miter slot to angled away from the blade at the rear by up to 0.003”.

If corrections are needed, check the instruction manual for the procedure used with your fence. However the actual adjustment is made, the changes needed will be very small. I usually leave the dial indicator at the rear of the fence and use that reading to quantify the adjustment. Once satisfied with the correction, tighten the fence adjustment down.

Move the dial indicator back to the front side of the fence, set the “0” to the needle and slide it to the backside of the table again to check the adjustment. Be patient as it is not uncommon to make several adjustments to get it right, especially with a new saw. Once you become familiar with how the fence responds to changes, this process gets easier – and faster.

Measuring my Biesemeyer fence showed it to be tailed out at the rear 0.0025”. My target is 0.001” to 0.003” so we will call this perfect. A testament to the quality of the Biesemeyer fence is that while I check its alignment once a month, I have not had to adjust it for over a year despite using it almost daily.

http://newwoodworker.com/basic/tsalign.html

 

[Big G]

I do have a table saw and it's a honking big one and amazingly accurate! I also have the TS55 with a dual MFT setup. I do not have a CMS.

On my table saw, the relationship of the fence to the blade is extremely critical. I use the best measuring tools available to ensure the alignment is dead on to the extent a high quality dial indicator can measure along the full length of the fence. The blade, the table top, and the fence have to be in as perfect alignment as possible to be accurate and safe.

I don't understand the rationale behind the statement that the portion of the fence behind the blade does not have to be parallel to the blade. Perhaps, with a 2-piece fence, the section of the fence behind the blade can be set back so it doesn't contact the wood. But, it seems like one would be giving up 1/2 of the guidance available to guide the work piece.

I find that blade misalignment can cause burning and/or kickbacks.

I googled for articles explaining why I do it ( People seem to respect articles more a persons opinion) So here is a cut and pasted section from one article  explaining why I tilt out the rear of the fence

Fence Alignment

A miss-aligned rip fence, particularly one that angles towards the blade at the rear can cause burning, splintered edges and even kickbacks. Pressing the wood against the side of the blade as it is pushed through is the culprit that also accelerates wear on the teeth that can shorten their life substantially.

I like my fence to be tailed out at the rear (away from the blade) between 0.001" and 0.003". An extremely accurate dial indicator like the SuperBar, slide from the front (left) to the rear (right) of the fence is the only way to see this tiny adjustment accurately.
Click images to enlarge
While some manufacturers call for their fences to be parallel to the miter slot, experienced woodworkers frequently angle the fence away from the blade at the rear slightly, usually in the 0.001” to 0.003” range. That tiny bit of intentional miss-alignment keeps the wood free as it passes the blade and prevents it from “dragging” against the wood during the last part of the cut.

Some instruction manuals say to simply align the edge of the fence with the edge of a miter slot. While that procedure will get you close, it is not close enough. I have aligned several fences with the miter slot and then checked them with a dial indicator. Finding a fence adjusted this way with less than 0.010” of error (towards or away from the blade) was a rarity. When I am the one pushing wood through the saw, that is not acceptable.

Install the dial indicator in the (left) miter slot near the front of the table, lower the blade completely and bring the fence over to the indicator’s rod. Gently bump the fence against the rod until the needle moves through approximately ½ of a revolution around the scale and then lock the fence. This bit of preload on the dial indicator insures that it remains in contact with the fence throughout the test. Turn the indicator dial so “0” is under the needle and lock the face.

Carefully slide the dial indicator down the fence until it reaches the rear of the table. Note the difference, if any on the scale. Remember that we want the fence somewhere between parallel to the miter slot to angled away from the blade at the rear by up to 0.003”.

If corrections are needed, check the instruction manual for the procedure used with your fence. However the actual adjustment is made, the changes needed will be very small. I usually leave the dial indicator at the rear of the fence and use that reading to quantify the adjustment. Once satisfied with the correction, tighten the fence adjustment down.

Move the dial indicator back to the front side of the fence, set the “0” to the needle and slide it to the backside of the table again to check the adjustment. Be patient as it is not uncommon to make several adjustments to get it right, especially with a new saw. Once you become familiar with how the fence responds to changes, this process gets easier – and faster.

Measuring my Biesemeyer fence showed it to be tailed out at the rear 0.0025”. My target is 0.001” to 0.003” so we will call this perfect. A testament to the quality of the Biesemeyer fence is that while I check its alignment once a month, I have not had to adjust it for over a year despite using it almost daily.

http://newwoodworker.com/basic/tsalign.html

Once the teeth on the front edge of the blade has cut the wood there is no reason at all to guide the cut wood, all table saws have a two piece sliding rail and the outer rail just needs to go beyond the teeth, I set mine midway between the arbour and the front edge.
Buying alignment gauges is totally unnecessary , after all your only roughing timber to be later sized on a planer thicknesser, manual alignment only needs doing once, only needs repeating if you change you fence.
Setting of machine tools is something you need to be taught, knowing when a machine isn't acting correctly is something you learn from good teaching and from years of experience, it is not something you can read in a book.

 

[Holmz]

...
Setting of machine tools is something you need to be taught, knowing when a machine isn't acting correctly is something you learn from good teaching and from years of experience, it is not something you can read in a book.

Almost all my teachers from Kindy onwards used books. ???