Wood to metal glue

[Monder]

Hello everyone.
I need your advice and expertise.
I am cladding metal stairs with walnut (treads are 12"x50") . I am looking for an adhesive that will give me a strong joint but yet allow for the wood movement-not as much as silicone adhesives.
Any ideas!

Best,
Monder 

 

[Holzhacker]

Even if I knew of such a glue I wouldn't recommend it. What if for whatever reason, the glue joint fails? Someone is walking up or down the stairs and a tread slides out and they tumble down to the ER. You really want that kind of liability?
Can't you get to the underside, predrill holes through the metal and mechanically fasten the treads?

 

[AlexThePalex]

I can't recommend any products on your side of the pond but I know such glues exist here that are strong enough for it. But, on a stairs, I would most certainly prefer some extra security and use mechanical fasteners.

 

[Monder]

See attached file.

 

[Deansocial]

http://can.sika.com/en/solutions_products/02/02a024/02a024sa021.html

 

[Eli]

How wide are these things that that becomes necessary?

 

[tiralie]

I am cladding metal stairs with walnut (treads are 12"x50") . I am looking for an adhesive that will give me a strong joint but yet allow for the wood movement-not as much as silicone adhesives.
Any ideas!

If I could only glue this I would use PL premium, the kind of glue they use to glue landscaping stone together.
However like others have said I would use a mechanical fastener (bolt) into the metal tread to be sure that it didn't move. A mechanical fastener will also make it easier to repair or replace the wood if required.
I assume these treads are glued up (vs. solid) walnut boards with the grain running the same as the tread. I believe any movement in the steps will be in the width so over time I believe glue will eventually fail with the contraction and expansion of the steps.
You may also post this question (if you haven't already) on Woodweb's adhesives and architectural wood working forums.
Let us know how this works out.
Tim

 

[Nick4u1]

yeah glue is a risky option, it has a habit of creeping and the longevity of the adhesion is limited. Fasteners are a much more of a long term solution

 

[Monder]

Thank you for your comments!
I agree that screws is the best way but it's very hard to drill through metal.
Most likely I will chose some sort of adhesive. The cladding will be in two parts, top and bottom (as shown in the drawing). I will glue the top part to the tread and clamp it and then I will glue the bottom part to the top parts ( the metal dimension for each stair is 10" wide x 2" thick  and I will clad it to 12"x3.5") . I don't see why this shouldn't work.
I will let you know how it will work (or maybe not ). I will post some photos.
Thank you again

Monder

 

[jonny round boy]

yeah glue is a risky option, it has a habit of creeping and the longevity of the adhesion is limited. Fasteners are a much more of a long term solution

I wouldn't disagree completely with that, but it is a bit misleading. Using the wrong glue is a risky option. If you find the right the right adhesive, and apply it properly, it can be stronger and reliable than mechanical fixings. If you don't believe me, as Eurobus - they glue the wings together on some of their planes (as, I suspect, do boeing too).

Whether you can find the right adhesive at a reasonable price is another matter...

 

[AlexThePalex]

... but it's very hard to drill through metal.

Not really. Only got to make sure you've got a drill that's up to the task.

 

[Deansocial]

well i have glued safety treads on with the glue i linked to and they are still on 18month later, Metal is not hard to drill at all just use the right bit at the right speed  and a coolant. The t15 is possibly the worst drill for small holes in metal as it is to slow as it needs to be 2-3000rpm for smaller bits up to about 5mm

 

[AlexThePalex]

i have glued safety treads on with the glue i linked to and they are still on 18month later

18 months really isn't a long enough period to judge. You have to think about its safety for the entire lifetime of the stairs, which can be many decades sometimes.

Metal is not hard to drill at all just use the right bit at the right speed  and a coolant. The t15 is possibly the worst drill for small holes in metal as it is to slow ...

I don't like cordless drills at all for drilling in metal. It's allright if you have to do just a couple of holes, but for real work the corded machines come out.

as it needs to be 2-3000rpm for smaller bits up to about 5mm

I've heard more people say this. I wonder why this is, because to me, drilling small holes in metal always seems to be easier than large holes, also with a cordless drill, because you need so much less force with a small hole.

 

[bruegf]

Might want to look at 3M 5200.

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?66666UuZjcFSLXTtlx&EO8TVEVuQEcuZgVs6EVs6E666666--

Tenacious stuff, but takes nearly a week to set up.  They also make fast cure version of it.

Fred

 

[Deansocial]

i have glued safety treads on with the glue i linked to and they are still on 18month later

18 months really isn't a long enough period to judge. You have to think about its safety for the entire lifetime of the stairs, which can be many decades sometimes.

Metal is not hard to drill at all just use the right bit at the right speed  and a coolant. The t15 is possibly the worst drill for small holes in metal as it is to slow ...

I don't like cordless drills at all for drilling in metal. It's allright if you have to do just a couple of holes, but for real work the corded machines come out.

as it needs to be 2-3000rpm for smaller bits up to about 5mm

I've heard more people say this. I wonder why this is, because to me, drilling small holes in metal always seems to be easier than large holes, also with a cordless drill, because you need so much less force with a small hole.

maybe not but is is made to stick stair nosings on