Woodpecker Micro Adjust

[Bob D.]

I'm trying to fabricate smth similar, since you can't buy them anywhere...
Anyone tried to replicate / DIY this micro adj jig ?  [big grin]
I ordered substituted parts, along with fine thread tap to build it. I'm trying to understand how the adj. knob works on the "push" end. Is it spinning freely inside of it, is it threaded all the way ???
Any owners dare to unscrew this part and take couple pictures? that would be a HUGE help...

Don't have a Micro-Adjust but looking at your photo I would say that button head screw is most likely set with thread-lock into a tapped hole in the end of the adjusting rod. I see what appears to be a brass washer under the head of the screw.  You can get threaded rod in 5/16-32 and 3/8-32 sizes or use a lead screw with a flange nut. You can find them on McMaster's site and elsewhere no doubt.
https://www.mcmaster.com/threaded-rods/lead-screws-and-screw-jacks/

 

[hubert]

Found it !  [big grin]https://grabcad.com/library/woodpeckers-micro-adjust-1

 

[ben_r_]

Found it !  [big grin]https://grabcad.com/library/woodpeckers-micro-adjust-1

Youre welcome.

 

[hubert]

Thank you ! [big grin]

 

[Michael Kellough]

I used the Micro Adjust on my CMS VL twin router table to push/pull the original fence.

I like it... [big grin] just curious how much lash there is when changing directions?

The Micro-Fence for my router is in the .002" range.

Unfortunately the Micro Adjust has ten times as much lash, so it isn’t “Micro” at all. I measured the lash with calipers, .021”

[attachimg=1]

This light spring washer compresses about .02” (a fat 64th”)

[attachimg=2]

The other side of the block is a screw and washer.

I received a MicroAdjust and discovered the excessive lash. I figured a washer had been left out. I wanted to use the thing right away so tried to take the screw out and add another washer, but the screw is very tight and the red knob loosened instead. Then I tightened a Quick Grip on the large fine screw (soft jaws, tightened as hard as I could) and the screw would not budge. So I put the thing aside and called Woodpeckers.

They sent another and it is exactly like the first. Maybe it works okay despite the lash? Nope. It works exactly like you’d expect when a weak spring is inline with the application of pressure. I installed it on the WP table and connected to the WP Super Fence with the fence locking knobs loose.

At first, nothing happens as the red knob is turned. It takes about a quarter turn to consume the gross lash and then the spring washer starts to compress. Another quarter turn with no movement and suddenly the fence jumps several thousands of an inch. Another quarter turn and then the fence lurches forward about 10 thousands as most of the tension in the spring releases.

One thousandth is Micro. 20 is something else. Are they substituting incorrect parts or is the design flawed?

 

[Michael Kellough]

Talked with Woodpeckers tech and learned that what I received is the same as it has been for years, and they think it works okay. So they sent a return label and I packed it up and turned it over to FedEx.

I do have a little bit of regret. If I’d tried harder the screw probably would have come loose and I could have reduced the slack. Or it might have broken then I’d be screwed. But it bugs me when something claims to be micro adjustable when it is so far off.

 

[derekcohen]

You could make you own micro-adjust. This is one I built for the depth stop on the Hammer K3 crosscut fence ...

Cost you pennies.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Michael Kellough]

I have such a device on my old router table where I use the technique of pivoting the fence to make adjustment. For ultra fine adjustment check out this page at McMaster for example, one full turn advances .01”.

The neat thing about the Woodpeckers Micro Adjust rig is that it moves the entire fence. This would allow you to set the fence parallel to the miter slot and maintain parallel when adjusting distance. It could be a real benefit in some circumstances.

They just need to eliminate the lash in the way the screw is secured to the moving part.

 

[derekcohen]

Michael, you do not need to move the entire fence. You only need to move the end where the fence locks down. That is where a tablesaw fence is “hinged”. That is how the fence (and micro-adjust) on my Hammer K3 functions.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Michael Kellough]

This thread is about a WP product for moving the router fence.

This thing.

 

[derekcohen]

Michael, I offered an alternative when the Woodpeckers thingie appeared faulty (and expensive for some). Also, I commented on a design factor. Someone may find this helpful.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Cheese]

I've been following this thread Michael but some things just didn't ring true with my experiences of the Micro Adjust so I took a closer look. I've incorporated the Micro Adjust into a CMS router table and am very happy with it. I took a Starrett magnetic indicator base and clamped it to the CMS table and installed the indicator. Here's a general view of the set-up.

[attachimg=1]

I marked the center of the bronze bushing with a red marker for a reference. I then turned the Micro Adjust until the indicator read zero and I marked the yellow tape with a small black marker.

[attachimg=2]

[attachimg=3]

I continued turning the Micro Adjust in the same direction until the indicator read +.001". I then marked that position with the black marker.

[attachimg=4]

[attachimg=5]

I then reversed direction until the indicator read -.001", then marked that position.

[attachimg=6]

[attachimg=7]

Here's a photo of the indicator and while the tip appears to be perpendicular, it's actually at an approximate 15º angle.
And another "overall" photo of the setup.

[attachimg=8]

[attachimg=9]

The max distance between the black marks is only about .120"/.125" so knowing the circumference of the lead screw, you can determine the angular dimension and thus figure out the amount of back lash.

So the linear distance between the LH & RH marks is .120"/.125" and the dial indicator movement is .002" total. I'm guessing the lash has to be under .002".

 

[Michael Kellough]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] thanks for doing that test. If the ones I received performed like yours…

Can you do one more test?

Turn the red knob counter clockwise two turns then mark the yellow tape and set the indicator.
Then turn the red knob clockwise until the indicator moves .001 and check the rotation of the screw.

The one I tested, the screw turned more than a 1/2 turn before moving the rig at all.
Then, with the load of the loose WP router fence, the spring washer compressed a little for another 1/4 turn and suddenly the fence lurched forward several thousands. Then more compression and another lurch.

The two units I checked are both from the most recent production.

 

[Cheese]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] thanks for doing that test. If the ones I received performed like yours…

Can you do one more test?

Turn the red knob counter clockwise two turns then mark the yellow tape and set the indicator.
Then turn the red knob clockwise until the indicator moves .001 and check the rotation of the screw.

The one I tested, the screw turned more than a 1/2 turn before moving the rig at all.
Then, with the load of the loose WP router fence, the spring washer compressed a little for another 1/4 turn and suddenly the fence lurched forward several thousands. Then more compression and another lurch.

The two units I checked are both from the most recent production.

Will do Michael...check back in tomorrow.  [big grin]

 

[Cheese]

I did as requested and here's the results...a dot for the zero setting and another dot for the +.001" setting.  [big grin]

I'm excited with the repeatability of the setup, even though it lacks a physical cursor/pointer, just turning the red knob until the black mark on it was in the approximate 90º setting produced results all within about .003"-.004". With an actual pointer attached I'm sure repeatability would be within .001" or less.

I wish Woodpeckers offered a larger degree dial option like what you'd see on a lathe or on a crankshaft dampener. Combine that with an attached pointer and you'd have some real precision built-in.

[attachimg=1]

[attachimg=2]

 

[Michael Kellough]

Thanks Cheese!
I have 22 seconds of shakey HEVC video that documents my test but don’t know how to use it.

 

[Michael Kellough]

That’s not bad! You did start with counter clockwise rotations and then reversed?

If so, the new ones have much more space under the clamping screw. Washer too thin, or screw too long, or simply not tightened enough before the epoxy (or Locktite) set, or spring washer too flat and or weak. Net result is .02” lash between the clamping screw and the compressed spring washer.

 

[Cheese]

That’s not bad! You did start with counter clockwise rotations and then reversed?

If so, the new ones have much more space under the clamping screw. Washer too thin, or screw too long, or simply not tightened enough before the epoxy (or Locktite) set, or spring washer too flat and or weak. Net result is .02” lash between the clamping screw and the compressed spring washer.

Yup, I marked the red knob for the 90º position, turned it 2 full turns counter clockwise, then reversed it and marked the yellow tape accordingly.

Those 2 black marks are around .030" apart and the lead screw is 1/2-32.

 

[Michael Kellough]

Here is the video…

 

[jeffinsgf]

Michael,

Cheese's experience is much closer to mine than yours with the Micro-Adjust. I've asked for one to be pulled off the new inventory shelf and one of the engineers and I are going to take a look and see if it is put together correctly.

Did you return the first one?