Woodpeckers OneTime Tool - Festool MFT Layout & Assembly Square (US)

A couple of questions for anybody here.

In general, does phenolic material have any tendencies to warp due to heat in the .75" thicknesses? When I refer to heat, I am referring to an non air-conditioned garage which can get quite hot in the summer months.

Also, is phenolic material resistant to wood glue such as the Titebonds (I, II, III)?
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I have had my Woodpeckers router table for years in my unconditioned shop here in NE Ohio, as well as my coping sleds, and have not had an issue in either the summer heat or winter cold, and unfortunately have used them in both extremes.

I put woodglue (I & II, didn't have any III around at the time) and it cleaned off very easily, both wet and dry.

Ed (Woodpeckers)

 
Woodtech28 said:
I put woodglue (I & II, didn't have any III around at the time) and it cleaned off very easily, both wet and dry.

Ed (Woodpeckers)

That’s one of the reasons you used this material for your clamping cauls, correct?
 
Seems to me that the pattern of holes, by design, give you 90/45 deg layout when using a rail with rail dogs. In that sense, a square would not be needed at all.
 
morts10n said:
Seems to me that the pattern of holes, by design, give you 90/45 deg layout when using a rail with rail dogs. In that sense, a square would not be needed at all.

You are correct.  It will do just that.  However, it aligns the rail such that the cut line crosses the 20mm system holes, leaving a small portion of the material being cut unsupported.  The cut line further weakens the MFT top in that area.  Ideally, the cut line crosses the MFT top between the 20mm holes.  Also, you will need to relocate the feather keys that Festool has ever so kindly placed for your benefit. 
 
Sparktrician said:
morts10n said:
Seems to me that the pattern of holes, by design, give you 90/45 deg layout when using a rail with rail dogs. In that sense, a square would not be needed at all.
You are correct.  It will do just that.  However, it aligns the rail such that the cut line crosses the 20mm system holes, leaving a small portion of the material being cut unsupported. 
Just use some spacers between dogs and guide rail. A peace of aluminum extrusion, for example, a couple of identical blocks, etc.
 
Ed,

Thanks for taking the time to stop by the forum today to answer questions from the forum members and potential buyers of your well-designed MFT squaring solution. It's fantastic for us to have insight and information directly from the product's designer.

Shane
The Tool Nut

[member=25669]Woodtech28[/member]
 
Woodtech28 said:
Hey Everyone, I just want to clear things up a bit...  This is Ed from Woodpeckers and this is my tool. 

First: The accuracy statement.
This is for degrees, so the ".0085" is .0085 degrees per foot. 

As others have asked, what does this really mean?  Taken literally, 0.0085deg/foot * 1.5' = 0.0128deg.  But degrees/foot is really strange, as it would imply some kind of spiral (increasing curvature with distance). 
 
Stoli said:
As others have asked, what does this really mean?  Taken literally, 0.0085deg/foot * 1.5' = 0.0128deg.  But degrees/foot is really strange, as it would imply some kind of spiral (increasing curvature with distance).

I think the statement .0085 degrees per foot is just a misnomer on Woodpeckers part. If you take a look at the advertised perpendicularity specifications for other Woodpeckers products, you’ll see they reference .0085 degrees without adding the “ per foot” moniker.
 
Cheese said:
I think the statement .0085 degrees per foot is just a misnomer on Woodpeckers part. If you take a look at the advertised perpendicularity specifications for other Woodpeckers products, you’ll see they reference .0085 degrees without adding the “ per foot” moniker.

Perhaps.

Could be related to the inspection method:  deviation of up to 0.0085 degrees as measured at 12 inches or across 12 inches.
 
Cheese said:
Woodtech28 said:
I put woodglue (I & II, didn't have any III around at the time) and it cleaned off very easily, both wet and dry.

Ed (Woodpeckers)

That’s one of the reasons you used this material for your clamping cauls, correct?
You are correct!
Ed - Woodpeckers
 
Woodtech28 said:
Hey Everyone, I just want to clear things up a bit...  This is Ed from Woodpeckers and this is my tool. 

Hi Ed, don't know if the tool design is "locked" at this point, but I have a suggestion. As several people have pointed out, it would be nice if there was a way to have the square be more than 3/4" thick. This of course was a feature of the Woodpecker MFT square - which was much more expensive than this tool.  How about some sort of phenolic or aluminum bushings/dogs that could be fit into the holes, thus raising it off the work surface?  This could be an optional add-on.

Regardless, I'll be buying one of these tools. It seems to have a lot of uses beyond setting up the MFT.  Thanks for creating a nice tool.
 
Degrees per foot sounds to me as if they expect the phenolic to warp, and the supposedly flat reference faces to not be truly flat.

So measured close to a corner the error would be much less than further from the corner where the warp has had distance to build up.

I'm not explaining this well, but I hope you understand what I mean!

Andrew
 
Hey guys...  long time reader, first time poster. Please forgive me if this was discussed already, but I'm looking for some input before pulling the trigger on one of these knowing the deadline is today.

Would you go with this or the WP 12" precision square? 
 
Instead of buying this one trick pony if only using to setup the MFT. .wouldn't it be better to buy a parallel TSO guide rail square? Attach to your rail, butt up against the fence and adjust. Sure it's more expensive but also extremely more useful.

I don't have either so I'm genuinely curious.
 
DynaGlide said:
Instead of buying this one trick pony if only using to setup the MFT. .wouldn't it be better to buy a parallel guide rail square? Attach to your rail, butt up against the fence and adjust. Sure it's more expensive but also extremely more useful.

There are plenty of squares out there. While the Insta-RailSquare does a great job at letting you get perpendicular cuts quickly and easily, it's a purpose built tool. It could be used for MFT alignment especially when used with the optional Insta dogs since you could use the MFT hole grid as a reference for the fence and rail. For the best deal, you can buy the Insta-RailSquare and dogs as a kit to save about $10.

The Woodpeckers OTT MFT square is going to be a thicker and longer square to give a more surface to reference off of. It's not a one-trick pony since it could be used for any squaring task, although there are features that help with MFT squaring.

The Woodpeckers 1281 could also definitely be used for squaring an MFT and includes a scale, unlike the OneTime Tool MFT Square.

I'm sure some of the forum members will give their insights and opinions.
 
I'm wondering who else that ordered has received theirs and if so are you seeing issues......... I have and yes I'm seeing "issues".

Mine came the day before yesterday and yesterday I had it out on my MFT to check it out.  The square portion worked fine, or shall I say good enough for me.

The issues seems to be that while the dogs fit the square and fit the table  a hole at a time when you try to add the second dog it will only fit some places.  A few places you can twist it in and well then getting the dog back out is difficult..... but places you simply can not get the second dog to fit, you can see the interference when looking through the square at the hole.

I have an original Festool top on my MFT-3, so I expected the square to fit anywhere, this is not the case.  I have contacted Woodpecker but have not heard back from them.  I'm wondering if my table top is out of wack or if the square is out of wack or is the design have a flaw such that not all tables and squares work together.

I have the green Anderson square and it works fine but was looking forward to having the dog holes and what they bring to the table, as it is not much..........

Love to hear others experiences.

Ed
 
I seem to recall reading on dog sizes that holes are meant to be bored to within a tenth of a millimeter and they do vary.  I don’t thin FT has any assurance of complete accuracy across the grid, but I have seen tighter holes when using the TSO triangle, but nothing to prevent insertion. 

Could be moisture in the top as well.  You could use a little sandpaper on a dowel to do a slight adjustment if there are particular holes that don’t quite align with ease. 

 
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