Woodpeckers Rules vs SREX straight edge rules

[NERemodeling]

I am just wondering what the major differences are between these two tools, cant find any tolerances on the rules, SREX is said to be better than .001/ft

are the rules accurate to use as a straight edge for all but the most extreme conditions? 

the rules seem a little more versatile with dual side markings, hook stop and rule stop adaptability

keep in mind that im not building fine furniture here, i will use it for some tool setup/checking (all mobile job site tools) general layout marking or cutlines and such for builtins and such

i can see myself combining it with things like the woodpeckers precision squares and triangles when i need a longer 90* or 45* mark

John

 

[greg mann]

The rules may be accurate to .001/ft. but when you're marking a pencil mark, well, you're still making a pencil mark.

 

[Kev]

Accuracy of these rules will not be your problem!

That said, if your requirement is for tool setup, have you considered digital gauges?

 

[farms100]

once you go starrett you'll never go back.

 

[NERemodeling]

Greg and Kev,  pretty much my point exactly, i imagine that the straight edges are held to exact tolerances and the rules are not but my guess is that they are still incredibly straight enough for anything i need to use them for...

are there any benefits to the SREX that im not seeing??

Kev, i am also currently looking into a digital angle cube of some sort, i started another thread HERE looking for advice... you have any??

 

[NERemodeling]

once you go starrett you'll never go back.

are you talking starrett straight edges or rules?    i looked into the straight edges quickly after  you posted and jeepers, they are quite a bit pricier than the woodpeckers stuff.. they also seem to have less features

what about them is it that you like so much, what do you do with them

John

 

[jmarkflesher]

Sent all my bird stuff back. Bought a 6" bevel edged square from Starret (think a 55). Now saving for a Starret straight edge. People will tell you that you do not need that kind of accuracy for woodworking. I say set up is key. Starret also make low end. Buy USA. Just my 7 cents. MARK    PS. If half inch shy reads this I hear his new angle finder doesn't work if temp is above 120 degree's. I'll buy it for what you paid.

 

[Michael Kellough]

I like to use the rules from Starrett combination squares for layout.
Though not sold as straight edges I use them as if they are all the time.
Even the 36" rule is plenty straight enough for WW'ing.

They're a good size, not so thick that they cause significant parallax sighting errors when used flat
yet not too thin to use standing on edge. For all around use you can't beat a satin chrome plated
hardened steel straight blade with very finely machine engraved increments.

I use combination squares a lot, mostly for layout when referencing an edge.
The corner of the rule is perfect for laying out the location of a screw hole from a single hash mark.

Almost like clamps, the more combination squares you have the better. You should have at least one
Starrett 12" version so it can be trusted as an actual square but for simple scribing from and edge
a cheaper version is okay. The main requirement is that it lock and release easily with finger tightening.

I have some of the more unique Woodpeck tools like the huge "one time" framing square
and I'll probably buy the 18X carpenter's square. These tools are very good for alignment
of tool to material but I find them too large and awkward for fine layout. Except for the tools
with a beveled edge they're too thick for marking from the increments and I worry about the beveled edges
despite the oxide coating. So, I don't take them out of my shop.

For precise alignment of the guide rail to plywood out of the shop I use a shopmade plywood 24X carpenter's square.
To make it I set up the MFT to cut as square as possible using the 4-square method and calculator in Rick's
supplemental TS 55 manual. Then I bisected the plywood used for the test and cut out some holes
for clamping and handling and let the plywood relax overnight. The next day with the MFT still as square as possible
I re-cut one leg of the new square and then rounded the pointy corners. It has remained the biggest squarest thing
I own for several years.

 

[farms100]

I have a 24" combi square rule plus a bunch of 12" and smaller rules i've picked up over the years. If you keep an eye out you can pick them up fairly cheap. If a need a longer straight edge i have some stabila levels that are plenty good enough for woodworking.

I grew up using a quality framing square, but every lumberyard combi square i saw or used was a piece of dung.  I was highly skeptical about the usefulness and cost of a starrett in a wood shop environment. for my Bday  I purchased a 12 inch starrett for class, much to my surprise it is a game changer.

that being said I would not take a starrett on a jobsite.

 

[semenza]

For most measuring and marking the rules  are better. Both edges are beveled and the center scale is nice to have. Accuracy with either shouldn't be any problem. The SERX advantage is that it will stand on one edge for use  as a straight edge when doing something like checking the coplanar on a miter saw table or seeing if a board is flat.  The bevel edge on the rules a  bit thinner too so it is a little easier  for marking. 

I generally grab the rules  first unless I really need a straight edge that will stand on edge.

Seth

 

[NERemodeling]

I have a 24" combi square rule plus a bunch of 12" and smaller rules i've picked up over the years. If you keep an eye out you can pick them up fairly cheap. If a need a longer straight edge i have some stabila levels that are plenty good enough for woodworking.

I grew up using a quality framing square, but every lumberyard combi square i saw or used was a piece of dung.  I was highly skeptical about the usefulness and cost of a starrett in a wood shop environment. for my Bday  I purchased a 12 inch starrett for class, much to my surprise it is a game changer.

that being said I would not take a starrett on a jobsite.

exactly where 100% of my work is,    for combination squares i stick with craftsman  [embarassed]  i find they work good enough for what i need. i keep one of them hanging from a leather loop on my belt and dont have to worry about it.. also when it does crap the bed, a quick trip to sears and i have a brand new one in my hand free of charge  ;D  cant beat that

Farms, Michael and jmark, good bits of info. Thank you

 

[NERemodeling]

For most measuring and marking the rules  are better. Both edges are beveled and the center scale is nice to have. Accuracy with either shouldn't be any problem. The SERX advantage is that it will stand on one edge for use  as a straight edge when doing something like checking the coplanar on a miter saw table or seeing if a board is flat.   The bevel edge on the rules a  bit thinner too so it is a little easier  for marking. 

I generally grab the rules  first unless I really need a straight edge that will stand on edge.

Seth

I was actually hoping you would post, i think you mentioned you had both the rules ans SREX when you were answering a question for me about the HL850 so i figured you would have good insight.

I think i am going to go with the rules for now.  I imagine that i will never NEED a free standing straight edge and if i do and dont have a free hand or helper i can just rig up something to hold it

what sizes do you have (or wish you had  [tongue])

I sent an email to Richard, owner of Woodpeckers and he verified that the rules are machined to the same .001 tolerance as the straight edges

John

 

[Tinker]

For some, "as long as it fits" is good enough.  For others, no degree of accuracy is quite close enough.

When i was in HS, my two favorite teachers gave me conflicting viewpoints on the subject of straight line and accuracy.
My math teacher, who was very sarcastic at times, and I liked his tough humor, told us that "there is no such thing as a straight line.  We can only make and/or see the representation of a straight line." His point was that there is no such thing as perfection. We can only try for it.

I then went into my favorite class, shop, with my favorite teacher who was a tough old bird who accepted no apologies, nor did he apologize for any shortcomings.  He got a lot of deadbeats who were just looking for an easy class (duh! I suppose I was there for same reason.)  Whenever he would point out errors on a project and the student would say, "aw, it's good enough" , Mr T would say in his own murderous English, "There ain't no sch a thing as gudunuf, it's gotta be purfic."  He expected better than a straight line. 

For me, I was thankful to have had the experience of learning from both men. 
Tinker

 

[semenza]

For most measuring and marking the rules  are better. Both edges are beveled and the center scale is nice to have. Accuracy with either shouldn't be any problem. The SERX advantage is that it will stand on one edge for use  as a straight edge when doing something like checking the coplanar on a miter saw table or seeing if a board is flat.   The bevel edge on the rules a  bit thinner too so it is a little easier  for marking.  

I generally grab the rules  first unless I really need a straight edge that will stand on edge.

Seth

I was actually hoping you would post, i think you mentioned you had both the rules ans SREX when you were answering a question for me about the HL850 so i figured you would have good insight.

I think i am going to go with the rules for now.  I imagine that i will never NEED a free standing straight edge and if i do and dont have a free hand or helper i can just rig up something to hold it

what sizes do you have (or wish you had  [tongue])

I sent an email to Richard, owner of Woodpeckers and he verified that the rules are machined to the same .001 tolerance as the straight edges

John

All of them  :

I use the 24" the most, but if I was just getting two of them I'd go with 12" and 36".    I have the 48" SERX  (silver/aluminum in color) that used to be part of the regular line, and mostly bought it because it was 48".  Neither the 48" SERX nor the 50" rule is part of the regular line.

Seth

 

[rljatl]

Also, you can add the handy hook stop to the rules, but NOT the SERX straightedges.