Working with some 8/4 lumber

[DynaGlide]

I bought some 8/4 Hard maple over the weekend for a workbench project. The boards were all about 10' long and 10-10.5" wide. I was able to get them oversized for the lengths I need but now I need to rip them. I was going to use the TS55 but after checking, they're all over 2", maybe 2 1/8".

I would like some of the boards to end up at 1 7/8" for leg glue ups/laminating together but it isn't 100% necessary. The legs finish out at 3.5" after gluing two boards together so there is a little wiggle room. The rest of the boards finish out at 1 3/4" for frame pieces/stretchers on the base of the workbench.

My initial feeling was I should do everything I can to not face joint the wide boards on the planer w/ a sled as that would possibly result in removing too much material. I wanted to rip them first to get the two parts out of each board (i.e. a leg blank and a stretcher), then start face jointing/planing to oversized thickness.

As I see it I can

A) Plunge about an inch or more with TS55, flip board and carefully line up to finish the cut, leaving the width well oversized. I believe I have enough width to do this and still get both parts from each board oversized in width.

B) Start face jointing/planing until the thickness is below 2", then rip in 1 pass with the TS55 and panther blade taking it slow.

I will have access to a proper jointer when necessary, as well as a bandsaw, but that requires me to schedule and work around my job and family obligations. Trying to limit that trip as much as possible and do what I can ahead of time.

Thanks,
Matt

 

[afish]

Sounds like the perfect excuse to get a ts75

 

[DynaGlide]

Sounds like the perfect excuse to get a ts75

Stop it. I had one in my cart this morning. I don't know how many 8/4 projects are in my future, or if I'll end up getting a bandsaw since those seem extremely useful/necessary for hardwood projects and hand tool work.

 

[afish]

Common, Festools are almost free, when you factor in there resale value. You can buy it and sell it much later and the hit is almost non existent.  If theres a shortage again you might even be able to double your money.  Go ahead and click the complete purchase button.  [thumbs up] you can do it.

 

[cpw]

I would definitely try to rip before jointing.  If there is cup, the thinner board will require removing far less thickness.

If you don't want the excuse for a TS75, you could start the rip with your TS55, then finish it with a jig saw (or even handsaw).

 

[waho6o9]

Please add a Festool Panther rip blade for your ts75 before hitting the purchase button. 

[thumbs up]

As an added bonus if you work with sheet goods you can cut three sheets at a time with the ts75.

 

[kevinculle]

I'll go against the green tide here and suggest a DW-735 planer...a wide jointer would make it all so easy but increases the budget and floorspace requirements substantially.  You could use a hand plane to get one side of the boards (easiest to hand plane the "cupped" side at the edges) flat enough to move to the planer.  Since I only have a 6" jointer when I buy wide stock, I have my supplier run one face over the jointer to get it skip-planed, not perfect but flat enough to finish plane from there.  They have 30" jointers and the charge is pretty nominal.

 

[MikeGE]

If you don't want the excuse for a TS75, you could start the rip with your TS55, then finish it with a jig saw (or even handsaw).

That's what I did...at first.  I had two 3-meter lengths of 75mm thick walnut to rip into four sections each and used the TS55 to make the initial cut, with a rip handsaw to finish the cut.  In my youth, this would have been a trivial matter, but I'm no longer a young man.  After the second rip cut, I bought a TS75 and Panther blade.

 

[DynaGlide]

[unsure] [unsure] [unsure]

Local store has the 75 in stock. I'm at the stage of the Festool game where I pawn a tool off before buying a new one. I suppose I could let the MFK 700 go and get it back some other day if I ever need it again. . .

 

[afish]

I will have access to a proper jointer when necessary, as well as a bandsaw, but that requires me to schedule and work around my job and family obligations. Trying to limit that trip as much as possible and do what I can ahead of time.

Thanks,
Matt

So, what Im hearing is buying a TS75 will save you a bunch of time?

In that case. If the wife asks just explain to her how much time you will save and tell her "No, I didnt buy a Festool... I bought quality time back with the family. How can you put a price on that, dear?"  OK Ill stop now.  [smile] If I keep going some retailer is going to owe me a commission.     

 

[rmwarren]

Heck, someone paid me ~$600 for the 6-8 years I was using my TS75 (sale price - initial cost = +$600), but that was when they weren't available new. For me, the 75 did nothing other than gather dust.

Matt, I'd rip full depth with the 55, flip and rip again proud of your first cut, then trim off excess w/ a piloted router bit.

RMW

Common, Festools are almost free, when you factor in there resale value. You can buy it and sell it much later and the hit is almost non existent.  If theres a shortage again you might even be able to double your money.  Go ahead and click the complete purchase button.  [thumbs up] you can do it.

 

[Mortiser]

I'm with your first suggestion and with Richard/RMW. If I didn't think I had a significant need for a TS-75, I'd make the first cut with my TS-55 then easily mark the second side from the kerf of that first cut and finish the rip. As you realize, you want to get all of your rough cut pieces pretty close to finished size before jointing or planing in order to save stock.
Good luck with your project.

 

[sancho57]

Simple, set up your guide rail, make your cut, flip the board over, set up your guide rail cut the other side, then if you have one joint the edges or use a friend jointer.

that saying if you have a a long enough guide rail or enough guide rails to connect. I did it it cutting mesquite slabs with my TS 55 EQ

 

[DynaGlide]

I tried the TS55 and flip trick. It works okay, probably well enough for my needs at the moment. Slow going but it saves me $790 (TS75 + ripping blade).

It didn't have any wobble so I started planing and since I'm a total novice here, what am I looking at? Is this curly maple? Is my planer chattering? It's flat in every meaningful way that I can check it. DW735 w/ helical cutter head.

 

[festal]

What bench style are going with?

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[waho6o9]

"I'm a total novice here, what am I looking at?"

Hopefully it's some awesome grain pattern.  Throw some mineral spirits on it and see it pop.

It doesn't look like planer marks from my view.

Best

 

[Ron B]

Is that maple or wild cherry?  Very similar wood grain (IMO).  I think some antique cherry furniture is really hard maple stained to look like cherry.  Either way, beautiful wood.

 

[DynaGlide]

[member=7659]waho6o9[/member]

[member=71889]festal[/member]

It's basically the Hybrid Workbench from Wood Whisperer, substituting a Benchcrafted leg vise.

 

[tsmi243]

Yeah that's curly.  If you can't feel it, it's not chatter.  Congrats

You might want to save these for something special, and rebuy some plain boards for the workbench.

 

[festal]

[member=7659]waho6o9[/member]

[member=71889]festal[/member]

It's basically the Hybrid Workbench from Wood Whisperer, substituting a Benchcrafted leg vise.

Nice. Got the plans as well. Need to get wood and start as well . Keep the progress posts going [emoji3]

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