Charles Wilson
Member
- Joined
- Mar 14, 2007
- Messages
- 145
So, in order to get the most accurate measurements from your Festools (particularly the TSs and the MFTs), which rules and speed square type tools do you use?
Chuck
Chuck
Your measurement tools . . . . .
- Thread starter Charles Wilson
- Start date
semenza
Member
Hi,
For non-jig measuring and layout. I have quite a few Woodpecker's items. Every once in a while I add another. They are excellent. 12" Carpenters Triangle, 48" SERX, 4 & 6" Precision Squares, 36" Woodworking Rule, 24" T Square. Check them out Great customer service too. Plus I have checked all against each other and they all sync up. Soyou can swap from one to another with out sacrificing accuracy.
Seth
For non-jig measuring and layout. I have quite a few Woodpecker's items. Every once in a while I add another. They are excellent. 12" Carpenters Triangle, 48" SERX, 4 & 6" Precision Squares, 36" Woodworking Rule, 24" T Square. Check them out Great customer service too. Plus I have checked all against each other and they all sync up. Soyou can swap from one to another with out sacrificing accuracy.
Seth
Woodenfish
Member
A framing square and stair gauges for repeatability with the TS on sheet stock. Just about anything laying around with the MFT/3.
I mainly use the Incra rules. I like the precision of the Incra rules and the marking graduations at every 64th. I use them in conjunction with the MFS templates. I am satisfied with precision of 1/64th. Here are a few pics of my measuring & layout tools that I use with the MFS and MFT.
[attachthumb=1]
Rules and layout tools on wall
[attachthumb=2]
Incra Rule and MFS setting up for 1 inch melamine cuts on MFT. MFS sits at the zero'd out point.
[attachthumb=3]
Measuring out 1 inch from the zero'd point
[attachthumb=4]
Ready to slice some melamine...calipers could prove 1.00000000000000000000000000000000000
[attachthumb=1]
Rules and layout tools on wall
[attachthumb=2]
Incra Rule and MFS setting up for 1 inch melamine cuts on MFT. MFS sits at the zero'd out point.
[attachthumb=3]
Measuring out 1 inch from the zero'd point
[attachthumb=4]
Ready to slice some melamine...calipers could prove 1.00000000000000000000000000000000000
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2007
- Messages
- 758
Rey,
How do you ever find anything. Doesnt that level of organiztion require that you look for a given tool in its proper place?
I might be forced to follow suit. Sal says that we will do that as soon as chest is done. A very nice shop you have.
How do you ever find anything. Doesnt that level of organiztion require that you look for a given tool in its proper place?
I might be forced to follow suit. Sal says that we will do that as soon as chest is done. A very nice shop you have.
nickao
Member
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2008
- Messages
- 4,561
As I have posted in the past I use all the Woodpeck rules and have just about every single item they sell for measuring. they all read the same from instrument to instrument which is actually quite unbelievable as I do not think I have two tapes that give the same measurement.
Anyway, here are pictures of two items that are not as common as rules, T-squares and squares, etc. The Rotape for drawing circles is indispensable and the circle guides for transferring and enlarging existing shapes and for scribing I use often.
The circle guides are really nice if you have corresponding router bits that match the guide sizes. It is simple to trace a new shape for a template where you want to use the same template for both positive and negative image when using these circle guides.
Nickao
Anyway, here are pictures of two items that are not as common as rules, T-squares and squares, etc. The Rotape for drawing circles is indispensable and the circle guides for transferring and enlarging existing shapes and for scribing I use often.
The circle guides are really nice if you have corresponding router bits that match the guide sizes. It is simple to trace a new shape for a template where you want to use the same template for both positive and negative image when using these circle guides.
Nickao
woodshopdemos said:
Thanks John. When I first started in my shop without organization, as I worked everything seemed to eventually migrate to a big pile of mess...and some things just ended up in some black hole not to be seen again for awhile.
Now, the measuring devices stay in their place, in pristine condition and out of those pesky black holes. They no longer make it to the bermuda triangle.
Rey,
I am in the process of rearrangement of my VERY cluttered shop.
I recently discovered there is actually a floor in there
I have used a pegboard for displaying many of my tools. I have cursed those supplied pins/hooks for falling out unless very careful when removing tools. There are little tabs that help prevent that, but then a problem if change/reoganization is prescribed.
i like those wood tabs you have made. How are they hooked into the pegboard. Screws? Hooks? Dowels?Other?
Tinker
I am in the process of rearrangement of my VERY cluttered shop.
I recently discovered there is actually a floor in there
I have used a pegboard for displaying many of my tools. I have cursed those supplied pins/hooks for falling out unless very careful when removing tools. There are little tabs that help prevent that, but then a problem if change/reoganization is prescribed.
i like those wood tabs you have made. How are they hooked into the pegboard. Screws? Hooks? Dowels?Other?
Tinker
turbogeezer
Member
- Joined
- Mar 13, 2008
- Messages
- 18
Tinker -
I've been pretty happy with the "Talon" pegboard hooks - available from both Lee Valley and McFeeleys.
They hook solidly in with a clever locking arrangement, yet can be unlocked, moved, and re-locked if need be.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=50353&cat=1,43326
- turbo
I've been pretty happy with the "Talon" pegboard hooks - available from both Lee Valley and McFeeleys.
They hook solidly in with a clever locking arrangement, yet can be unlocked, moved, and re-locked if need be.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=50353&cat=1,43326
- turbo
Tinker said:
Tinker,
Sorry for the delay in getting back to the forum...I've been involved with my scrollsaw lately
All of my little wood tabs are connected with screws ans anchors. It is by far the most the cost effective of the solutions that I have seen. The achors are fairly low in price. So I am able to keep many of them on hand. I have put a quick pic below...
[attachimg=1]
