Zinsser BIN ?

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So is Zinsser B I N  just  straight shellac? Or is it somethng special to make it a primer  /  sealer?  Good  on new wood under paint?

Seth
 
SRSemenza said:
So is Zinsser B I N  just  straight shellac? Or is it somethng special to make it a primer  /  sealer?   Good  on new wood under paint?

Seth

The clear is alcohol (ethanol and Isopropyl) based shellac and yes it's excellent for new wood, and as Dean says - MDF under water based paint. I really like using it. The paint (latex) binds to it very well.
As I understand it the white BIN is pigmented alcohol based with some binders etc.
Tim
 
great stuff. i use it (and cover stain etc from zinsser) all the time . great for covering pine etc with knots. dries really quick so you can give it a coat ,then touch up any bits,then gloss etc it. it saves having to spread a job out over 2-3 days.
 
Seth

It is white pigmented shellac. Shellac is a brittle coating (inflexible) so for certain applications it is not a top candidate, but still a very handy product. Not a go to cabinet grade wood primer though.
 
If you end up spraying it,or maybe even rolling/brushing, get a good mask.  I did a rehab recently where there was a film of nicotine on every surface from the 3 pack a day previous owner.  Even with a full filtered mask I ended up having to step outside every 45 minutes to clear my head.  Good stuff, dries super fast, top coats of latex adhere really well.  Just not so good to breathe.  [blink]
 
Thanks for the info.

Not spraying it, brushing.

I have a customer that wants me to apply it  on a piece that I am building, as prep/primer for painting it themselves.

Seth
 
Good product. As a side note though, if you remain alert you'll realize that your brain cells are dying away every minute you have the can open.
 
Seth, good meeting you at JLC. I would definitely stick with the Zinsser family, but not use the BIN. I like to use Bullseye 123 and then sand with Brilliant 220. Personally i wouldnt topcoat with anything that doesnt rhyme with Benjamin Moore, i like the Regal line. BINs best asset is its stain blocking capabilities which makes it great for ceiling repairs. It is also much more viscous then regular primer and will be annoying to apply. If the piece has a lot of flat surfaces get a four inch 1/4 or 3/8 inch nap roller, cut out everything by brush and then roll as close as you can get. Whatever you do dont use a foam roller, theyre worthless. Good luck!
 
Scott B. said:
Shellac is a brittle coating (inflexible) so for certain applications it is not a top candidate...

I didn't know that about Shellac.
If I don't use a pigmented lacquer as a primer, my preference if I am using Latex paint as a top coat is an Alkyd based primer. 2 hours wait and I can re-coat. Needs to be well ventilated and it smells like crap.
Unfortunately they are phasing out petroleum based products in this market.

I have never tried any Polyurethane modified acrylic like XIM UMA. I might give them a go.
Tim
 
Tim

It does appear that oils of all flavors are approaching the endangered (or at least really limited) list. We have been using SW Wall and Wood primer, and BM's new Fresh Start Superior (046) very happily on trim and cabinets lately. Both of them brush and spray really well, sand to powder nicely, bind like crazy and make a nice foundation for waterborne/latex topcoats.
 
To flesh out the inflexibility of BIN note, I sprayed BIN (shellac based pigmented primer) on plywood panels that I wanted to pre-finish then cut up for backs and sides of cabinets. BIN also seems to be a significant vapor barrier too (compared to acrylic primer I'd sprayed on the backs) because a week later when we had our spell very low humidity here the panels shrunk to the back side and the BIN surface looked like an egg shell, covered with an organic pattern of hairline cracks but in a much larger scale than an egg shell.

Now that the panels have re-flattened with the rise in humidity I suppose I'll have to spray BIN on the backs to stabilize them.

I used BIN because I wanted to get a fast drying sandable coating over the raised wood that had been exposed by sanding down the acrylic primer. The BIN doesn't raise the grain as much as acrylic but it does raise it more than oil or alkyd based coatings.

Smoothly sanded BIN is a beautiful surface, extremely fine grained and slightly warm white. It would make a great foundation for fine art painting or drawing unless the warm color is a problem.

BIN is also is easy to spray with modest HVLP equipment since it is very low viscosity compared to acrylic and clean-up is with denatured alcohol. But I prefer alcohol to paint thinner...

Scott, I bought some SW Wall and Wood primer and was shocked at the nearly paste-like consistency. How do you brush something that thick? I suppose it's no problem with airless?
 
Michael

It is on the thick side, but not dramatically moreso than some of the paints we now use. If you find it to be thick, shake, stir and add a splash of water. But not so much as to compromise the coverage, which is one of its strongsuits. We do cut it a bit for spraying. It is thick and abrasive on tips, but lays down and sands nicely.
 
I've used BIN for years. It's a Shellac based primer, design to block and seal staining and odor. It does this very well because the base is nonreactive to most stains. Ever tried to hide a water stain with a water based product... BIN is very good at blocking tannic acid in knotty wood, and it's the only thing I use for smoke damage and pet odor. It's thinner than normal primer, but can still be sprayed. I use a .11 or .13 tip in my graco and it lays nice and smooth. It can prime over wallpaper because the base will not soften the water base wallpaper glue, but don't be that guy. Speaking as a painter wallpaper is a 1000 times more difficult to remove once it's coated over. I use natural animal hair brushes to cut in. Purdy ox hair is my brush of choice for this. Dip the bristles in denatured alcohol and wring them out first and it makes cleanup easier later, but this stuff isn't to bad to get out of a brush. I'm fastidious about keeping my brushes perfect though. Lambs wool rollers to roll, or a nice high grade polyester, but microfiber makes a mess of it. You can get it tinted towards your topcoat color too which is always helpful with coverage, and expect to be able to stretch it slightly further than a typical can of paint. Most primers including this one will oxidize left exposed to the air. They harden, shrink, turn yellow, and then can eventually crack and flake. I try to get my topcoat on within 2 or 3 days, but after a week I'd suck it up and reprime it. It's the same reason why paint never wants to stick especially well to factory primed doors and trim. Pre-prime means re-prime. Anyway I've rambled off a bit, but hopefully this was a bit helpful.
 
Michael E. said:
I've used BIN for years. It's a Shellac based primer, design to block and seal staining and odor. It does this very well because the base is nonreactive to most stains. Ever tried to hide a water stain with a water based product...

I never thought I would say this, but the day has come when waterborne technology has just about matched pigmented shellac performance.

I reviewed one recently, and was quite surprised. It's not a manufacturer who has ever impressed me, and may never again, but this stuff is good.
 
Scott B. said:
I never thought I would say this, but the day has come when waterborne technology has just about matched pigmented shellac performance.

I reviewed one recently, and was quite surprised. It's not a manufacturer who has ever impressed me, and may never again, but this stuff is good.

I've never used the Kilz Max. I'll have to try and snag a can from my local Behr rep. When it comes to Latex primers I usually stick to Gripper by Glidden. A friend of mine turned me on to it a few years back. He gave me a half a can and said just try it. I'm still in love with the product today. Don't get me wrong I HATE Glidden Paint (it's a personal thing if there are those of you out there that use it), but they make a awesome primer. Still if Masco upped the quality of the Kilz I'll have to give it a go.
 
Michael E. said:
Scott B. said:
I never thought I would say this, but the day has come when waterborne technology has just about matched pigmented shellac performance.

I reviewed one recently, and was quite surprised. It's not a manufacturer who has ever impressed me, and may never again, but this stuff is good.

I've never used the Kilz Max. I'll have to try and snag a can from my local Behr rep. When it comes to Latex primers I usually stick to Gripper by Glidden. A friend of mine turned me on to it a few years back. He gave me a half a can and said just try it. I'm still in love with the product today. Don't get me wrong I HATE Glidden Paint (it's a personal thing if there are those of you out there that use it), but they make a awesome primer. Still if Masco upped the quality of the Kilz I'll have to give it a go.

I concur on Glidden. If you like shellac BIN, I think you will like KM. I always liked BIN. Unfortunately, as I age, my nervous system just can't stand it, and so many of my old fave oils.
 
Scott B. said:
I concur on Glidden. If you like shellac BIN, I think you will like KM. I always liked BIN. Unfortunately, as I age, my nervous system just can't stand it, and so many of my old fave oils.

Too funny, I've been told by some of the guys I work with that I can be a little twitchy.
 
Michael E. said:
Scott B. said:
I concur on Glidden. If you like shellac BIN, I think you will like KM. I always liked BIN. Unfortunately, as I age, my nervous system just can't stand it, and so many of my old fave oils.

Too funny, I've been told by some of the guys I work with that I can be a little twitchy.

Hit me around 40. Its a freakin rollercoaster. But its never boring.
 
SRSemenza said:
So is Zinsser B I N  just  straight shellac? Or is it somethng special to make it a primer  /  sealer?   Good  on new wood under paint?

Seth

I am Festool Green !

What does "BIN" stand for ?

A Japanese Wood Worker
[doh]
 
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