106" Rail vs. (2) 55" rail

[Sertfas]

Hi,
I'd like to say that I really appreciate this website, many skilled craftsmen/women interested in quality work.

I'm looking to start building my frameless 32mm cabinets with a TS55 instead of a table saw.

My goal is to be safer, less strain on my body, less dust, and easily set up and store my whole workspace.

First off, will the TS55 accomplish this?

Next, which collection system do you recommend to pair with this saw to meet the above criteria?

Lastly, would a 106" rail be more suitable for the above criteria? Or would (2) 55" rails joined with the connector piece be more appropriate? I am afraid that a 106" rail, while useful for establishing a perfect edge, would be cumbersome to cross-cut short pieces. The ability to breakdown to 55" for cross-cuts seems very appealing, but from your experience is there any downside (more play between the 2 pieces causing problematic cutting)?

Thank you for your time and experience

 

[wow]

Why not get one of each? That's what I did.

 

[webfarmer]

I'm not an expert, but I might suggest an MFT set which will have a short rail included.  Then buy a long rail to cut an 8' sheet length wise.  This will allow you to make the cabinet sides cutting the depth of the cabinet on the long side of the sheet - than cross cut using the MFT for the cabinet height.

A little more money, but with those rails and the TS55, you will have your system well underway.

Enjoy,

Brett

 

[Kev]

Swap the 1400 with the LR32 1400 as an upgrade when you buy the TS55. Add the 3000 rail to the mix.

The joiners work, but it's just another time consuming task to align them.

Any of the Festool CT's will work well with your TS. Just consider your desired capacity and maybe consider mini or midi if stairs are often involved. CT26/CT36 are the typical go to's.

Kev

 

[BMH]

If you are going to break down plywood regularly the FS3000 with the FS rapid clamp is the way to go. If you are going to do production work the parallel guides are a good addition. Have a 55" LR32 capable rail for the cross cuts, as it will do double function with the LR 23 system. If you have the MFT3 then do all of your crosscuts on it as it will speed up the process big time.

 

[Sparktrician]

I much prefer the combination of two 1400mm LR 32 rails for portability and versatility.  The Betterley Straightline Connector is invaluable when joining the two rails to keep them aligned correctly.  The 2800mm length of the combination works better than the 2700mm rail when making diagonal cuts.  Two LR 32 rails will make bookcase line-boring much easier, too. 

 

[leakyroof]

I have short rails, I own slightly longer rails , along with the Festool rail connectors, and finally, I own the large/long 3000 rail.  A key thing about have that really long rail is not just a staight line cut on a square sheet, but the ability to make a long diagonal cut if needed.
Sure, I can join my short rails if needed, and they ARE easier to transport and store, but the really long rail makes it fast for a long rip cut without the need to align pieces or use a straight edge to double check your rail connections.
You can always buy shorter rails and connectors to try out and see if it is going to work for you. Then sell them and get a long rail if you decide you don't want to stick with that method.
Either method works for lots of people, but storing long rails and transporting them if you're moving from job site to job site means shorter rails and connectors have LOTS of fans too... [big grin]

 

[PeterK]

While I definitely prefer a one piece rail, the long rails are just too much trouble to store in my tiny shop. I use the Betterley connector gizmo and different length short rails. If I had only 2 it would be the 55" and the 75"". The 75" I find to be very useful.

 

[rrmccabe]

I personally think both rails are a must.  I dont have the patience to rip plywood with two connectors and then break it down for a crosscut and then add the connector back.

So when I am ripping plywood I have both rails out. And often my 36" rail (made from a previous rail catastrophe).

The Festool track saw system is a life long investment which is not something I can say about most my tools. If you can rotate the long rail around in your shop then it's worth having.

 

[zapdafish]

+1 for the betterley connector if you end up with 2 rails instead of one long one.

 

[Paul G]

IMO if you go with a long guide rail then get the 118" version, it offers the no limits cut length when dealing with 4'x8' sheets in that you could do an angled cut if needed. As for connectors, some like them and others not so much. I fall in the latter category, only use them when I must (ie 10' ply), the balancing act is tightening the screws enough to hold firm without over-tightening and damaging the rail. It's the Achilles heel of the rail system IMO and is deserving of a better engineered solution. If you go with the connectors keep in mind you typically leave a small gap between the connecting rails since the ends are not (at least mine are not) cut perfectly square (one of those things that makes me say 'really!?'). Since I don't frequently connect rails I just use a level as my alignment tool, if I did it more frequently the Betterly (sp?) would be a no brainer purchase.

So I've got a 55, 75 and 118" rails, wish I had gotten the 55" holed rail but didn't know any better at the time. That rail combo covers my needs breaking down sheet goods with a TS75, for the TS55 you might be fine skipping the 75" (the 55" is insufficient for cutting 4' with a TS75 without plunging but fine for a TS55). Your projects, budget, space and mobility requirements may lead you to a different mix, that's the cool part of having a variety of rail options available from Festool.

 

[Kev]

I'm just really curious ... do the rails sold in NA have inch lengths displayed on them?

 

[Wooden Skye]

I'm just really curious ... do the rails sold in NA have inch lengths displayed on them?

No they aren't marked in inches, however most dealers I have seen do put the inch measurement in the description.

I join the rails together with the Betterley and never had an issue.  I did buy a 1900 (75") rail because it was to good of a deal to pass up.  If I had it to do over, the second 1400 rail would have been the holey rail others have mentioned. 

 

[Paul G]

I'm just really curious ... do the rails sold in NA have inch lengths displayed on them?

No but they are named by both inch and metric

http://festoolusa.com/power-tool-accessories/guide-rails/tracks

 

[bkharman]

FYI... I just got my Makita rail connectors today and ran down to my shop and connected my rails together and man this is a sweet setup!  I was hesitant on getting the Fes ones because of all the dimpling that I had read and glad that I did.  If you use Amazon, they are on sale now at around 22 bucks.  A bit more than the Festool ones, but they are so much nicer.  Get two sets, just as you would with the Green & Dk. Blue ones.

cheers.  Bryan.

 

[Sparktrician]

You might want to read this message regarding replacement screws for the connector bars.  These screws are nylon-tipped, making dimpling a non-issue and use a 3mm hex wrench as opposed to the slotted screws of the standard screws. 

 

[iamnothim]

LR32  ++++ 
I have the FS1400 with the extension bars.
It's a great combo

I'm finishing my first cabinet.

 

[jeh]

If you are going to break down plywood the 106" is too short for the saw to start and/or stop on the rail. You have to move up to the next length, which is 118".

If you are set on having two shorter rails then get a 55" and a 75", which will be long enough for plywood. I would get the 55" with the holes for the LR32. No cost difference and will save money if you decide to get the LR system later (you won't have to buy another rail).

 

[bkharman]

If you are going to break down plywood the 106" is too short for the saw to start and/or stop on the rail. You have to move up to the next length, which is 118".

If you are set on having two shorter rails then get a 55" and a 75", which will be long enough for plywood. I would get the 55" with the holes for the LR32. No cost difference and will save money if you decide to get the LR system later (you won't have to buy another rail).

I don't have to rip across an 8 foot length too often but when I do I have a trick.

I will plunge in where I leave a bit back and the come back and cut it by moving the track back a little with the saw plunged. I have always had success there.

 

[peter halle]

I'll admit that the 118" (3000mm) track makes cutting plywood in the long dimension easier, but unless I have entered a total time warp (quite possible) I have been cutting plywood along the long length with my 2700 rail since 2006.  To say it can't be done is not accurate.  Can you use the parallel guides also - yes.  It would be advisable to have have a limit stop on the rail for certain operations.

Peter