106" Rail vs. (2) 55" rail

[overanalyze]

Yep same here. We have the 106" track and have no problems cutting 8' goods.

 

[batcave]

I would start with two 55 inch holy rails. You will need them anyway. If you are just starting your festool collection then there are probably better things to invest in than the convenience of a long rail.

 

[Paul G]

I'll admit that the 118" (3000mm) track makes cutting plywood in the long dimension easier, but unless I have entered a total time warp (quite possible) I have been cutting plywood along the long length with my 2700 rail since 2006.  To say it can't be done is not accurate.  Can you use the parallel guides also - yes.  It would be advisable to have have a limit stop on the rail for certain operations.

Peter

However if the need arises to angle those long cuts the 106" will quickly run out of rail which made the 118" the better choice for me. The extra $25 is inconsequential and the lengths are practically equal in the unwieldy dept., at least in the spaces I use it.

 

[Sertfas]

Man what an out-pour of opinions and ideas. Thanks so much to all.
Sorry for the imperial dimensions by the way, starting to realize this is a largely European board.

I see what is being said about a 106" vs. 118" (3000) as regards not being able to cut a straight 98" line. But that got me thinking, is 55" enough to cross cut a sheet of 48" wide? (That would only leave 3.5" on either side)

I'm not sold on the 75" (1900) as it seems to be in the 'way too cumbersome' range AND I would still need to buy another rail. My workspace is long, but narrow, I'd rather not be constantly banging the corners into walls. 

At least with 2 55" I could upgrade to a 118" later and sell one 55" to fund it if need be.

So as long as it can cross cut at 48" I'm good to go, I'll place my order and see if they can swap in the Hole rail. You guys are no good! You were supposed to tell me its ok to cut cabinets on a portable table saw and save my money!

Thanks again to all

 

[Kev]

Man what an out-pour of opinions and ideas. Thanks so much to all.
Sorry for the imperial dimensions by the way, starting to realize this is a largely European board.

I see what is being said about a 106" vs. 118" (3000) as regards not being able to cut a straight 98" line. But that got me thinking, is 55" enough to cross cut a sheet of 48" wide? (That would only leave 3.5" on either side)

I'm not sold on the 75" (1900) as it seems to be in the 'way too cumbersome' range AND I would still need to buy another rail. My workspace is long, but narrow, I'd rather not be constantly banging the corners into walls. 

At least with 2 55" I could upgrade to a 118" later and sell one 55" to fund it if need be.

So as long as it can cross cut at 48" I'm good to go, I'll place my order and see if they can swap in the Hole rail. You guys are no good! You were supposed to tell me its ok to cut cabinets on a portable table saw and save my money!

Thanks again to all

You'll cross cut 48 ok with the TS55 + 55" rail, not so easily with the TS75 - hence why they seem to fav the larger rail in NA as a TS75 combo ... and completely ignore the obvious limit down under [mad]

 

[jeh]

Yep same here. We have the 106" track and have no problems cutting 8' goods.

Sure you can, but why skimp for an inferior setup that requires exact placement. With 4x8 you only have 5" of overhang on either side and the baseplate of the saw requires more than that in order to complete engage both of the spacers that keep the baseplate from wiggling in the rail. You can engage one of them, but not both at the start and stop. Of course you plunge in at the start, but that's not necessary and introduces the possibility of kickback. Spend the extra $25, which in the big picture with these tools is nothing.

 

[K119Phil]

It's a question of whether you're relatively situated in a shop, or require mobility from job site to job site.

Long rails are best, but are really difficult to transport safely.  Joining via SLC (StraightLine Connector) is the way to go.  

To put numbers to the game,

TS55R w/ a free 55" rail = $615

additional 55" rail $125
Guide Rail Connector $17 x2 = $34
StraightLine Connector = $99

which puts you at an additional $258

If you fancy a Rail Bag, +$95 would put you at $353

a 106" by itself is $310

Or

If you opt to have only ONE rail, trading in the 55" which comes with the saw... then an additional $185 would get you the 106"

Our most common TS saw package is,
- swapping 55" for LR32 55" (holy rail) - no cost
- purchasing an additional 75" rail = $195
- StraightLine Connector = $99
- Guide Rail Connector x2 = $34
- Rail Bag = $95

Gives you storaged mobility, the joined length of 130", and flexibility of both 55" and 75" rails separately (if say, you had two guys running two saws).

 

[Wonderwino]

Starting out with a Festool TS75, I purchased the 3000 rail to be able to rip plywood with one rail.  It also came with the 1900 rail, which gave me almost 15' of ripping capacity with rail connectors.  I did my cutting on one of those plastic banquet tables ($50) topped with a 4'x8' sheet of 1-1/2" rigid foam insulation ($20).  To join two rails together, I used a 6' level (you'll need this to install cabinets anyway) as a straight edge while tightening the joiners.  This was pre-parallel guides, so I used an adjustable square or a ruler with a ruler stop to gauge the rails for parallel panel cuts.  The rapid clamp would have been handy, but I just used two Festool screw clamps to hold the rail in place.  I have since purchased a TS55 which is much lighter and easier to handle than the TS75 if you are only going to use it on sheet goods.  I have also added the parallel guides, Rapid Clamp and a whole lot more.  [scared]

I have a 5 h.p. table saw, but the above method is far safer and less strenuous than wrestling a full sheet of plywood through a saw with no help.  Much easier to move the saw though the wood.  Alone.  [smile]

 

[JayStPeter]

I think you're thinking correctly.  Two 55s do the trick.  I used that for years.  I finally got a 118 last year and it is nice.  But it is also huge.  I have trouble figuring out where to put it between cuts when I have to move things around.  At 9', it's longer than my ceiling is tall.  Also hard to spin around without hitting something.  It's nice to have the two 55s to fall back on now and then.

 

[Wonderwino]

I lay my 3000 rail on the top of my lumber rack.  I think some have made brackets to store long rails on the back of their garage doors.

 

[panelchat]

track saw based cabinetmaking is a fun and engaging thing to get in to and your goals of safety, dust collection and working in small space will be well satisfied.

are you doing kitchen cabinets? if no cabinet dimension is longer than 48", as often happens in making kitchen cases, you won't necessarily need a setup for 8' cuts, and could avoid or postpone the expense of purchasing one. for toe kicks or any long strips I used to use, in a pinch, an 8' long by, say 10" or so wide straight strip of plywood as a straight edge, with no rail.

if you use connectors, be sure to check them while in use to see that they have not slipped out of true. i find them great for trouble shooting or when transport is needed, but a real pain for constant use.

the long rail is a superb tool but very delicate. if storage is an issue, look at hanging it from a nail on a wall using the hole at the end, if you have high enough ceilings.