1400 router and guide rails...help please!

csmark

Member
Joined
May 27, 2007
Messages
8
Greetings, I recently tried to use the 1400 to route a plywood width slot on a 4 -2x4 (7 feet long) that I had securely clamped down and also used two pipe clamps to line them up "together."  Well I now need to get another 4 2x4s because the parts totally drifted.  I used the guide rail guide attachment, the same setup as I had use to successfully cut the 2x4s from 8 to 7 feet.  From what I can tell the error is a combination of not having things clamped down enough and error in the rail attachment jig.  I thought 4 clamps to the 1080 table would be enough, apparently not. 
When I was trying to line up the cut the only way I could get the router to sit right (vertically) on the wood was to place it at the end of the rails.  What the heck?!  When I set the router 6" from the edge of the guide rail, the bottom of the router closest to the rail was a good 1/8"-1/4" above the distal end.  (this is using the 2 metal rods and the 2 black knobber things that go on each rail).  It was like the black rail riders wouldn't move down enough or something.  I'm not quite sure what I'm missing here.  I played around with it but I could only get it to come close to perpendicular vertically when I ran the router out on the far end of the metal rods. 

As for the guide rail and clamping, any suggestions on how to better secure my work would be appreciated.  I tested the rail to be perpendicular to the work when I started but I was about a 1/2" off when I got to the end of the 2x4s.  How have other people been securing their work?  Is it irrational to do all 4 boards at once?  I'd prefer to do all 4 at once so they are equal distance from the end,  just as I had done with the saw minutes earlier with no problems.  My only other though is to run a clamp up the guide rail before I start.

If this were normal circumstances I'd say I'm asking advice because I don't want to destroy more boards.  The real truth is that my new wife (she's still shinny!) of 3 weeks today, and I are moving her in and I was hoping to have this done for more storage space.  I'd like to justify buying these festool toys so if I could get this to work today and get the shelves setup I'd feel a bit justified in spending the extra dollars it took to get festool items. 

I was reading back posts and will now scribe my new lines in the middle of the router so I can use that guide.  Amazing how having used a old router keeps you stuck in a rut in thinking while festool items make things so much easier (i.e. the middle of the router marker).  Well, usually they are easier, it's just a matter of learning how to use them correctly. 

Thanks for you help in advance! 

Sincerely,

C. S. Mark
 
C.S., can you post pictures of your setup so I can see if I spot any problems, I have done what you are trying numerous times and I've had no trouble.

Are you using the support foot to hold the router's base parallel to the work piece surface?
 
Hi,

      What I get from your description is that you are routing accross 4 2x4s clamped edge to edge all at the same time. And the dados are not coming out right or the router will not slide properly on the rail.  I think the trouble may be with the 2x4s. 2x4s are almost always at least slightly twisted, warped , etc. It doesn't take much of a bend or twist in a guide rail to make things not go right. So clamping everything together may be causing some mis-alignment to the rail. You may need to just do them one at a time. And since you have the MFT - one at a time might actually be faster than trying to get everything clamped and set up for a multiple pass.  Not sure if this helps or not , but good luck.

   Or if you have the circular saw,, perhaps it woould run accross them better than the router. You could make several passes and just knock out the remaining chunks.

Seth
 
Good advice above.  Here's a couple of  cents worth more...

I hate the outrigger too.  I made an auxiliary base plate for the OF1400.  Daviddubbya has a thread on how to do that.  The plate attaches to the regular plate with longer screws (or double stick tape).  The additional height can even the router with the guide rail.

When I have  problem like that, more often than not, I have not adjusted the height correctly on the guide rail holders and the rail is fitting loosely in the holder nearest me.....

Do you have the stop snuggly holding the angle unit?

Its always something, huh?
 
If the problem is twist and warp in the 2 x4's (almost inevitable), then my suggestion would be to back up and get the stock square before you make the router cuts.  Twisted stock will haunt all operations and the error will compound step by step until the very end.

HTH

Dave
 
I'm going to guess that you had the Guide Stop (the black knobber things) set onto the rail incorrectly.  Only one of the Guide stop halves rides on the rail protrusion.  The other half is not riding on the rail, but is used as a fine adjustment mechanism.  If you have not done so, read the manual written by Rick Christopherson, here:
http://www.festoolusa.com/Web_files/OF1400_manual_usa.pdf

See pages 18 to 20 for a discussion of the Guide Stop attachment to the rail.
 
Bingo!  This is exactly what I needed!  All the other posts are helpful and thanks to all who responded.  I sometimes wish festool would push these more than they do. 

Thanks for the helpful response!

C. S. Mark

Daviddubya said:
I'm going to guess that you had the Guide Stop (the black knobber things) set onto the rail incorrectly.  Only one of the Guide stop halves rides on the rail protrusion.  The other half is not riding on the rail, but is used as a fine adjustment mechanism.  If you have not done so, read the manual written by Rick Christopherson, here:
http://www.festoolusa.com/Web_files/OF1400_manual_usa.pdf

See pages 18 to 20 for a discussion of the Guide Stop attachment to the rail.
 
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