150 / 5 or 150/3 ?
- Thread starter JerrySats
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I think this would depend upon what others sanders you have. I have the RO150 and the ETS 150/3. I don't feel the need for the 150/5 as the RO150 covers this. If I didn't have, or plan to have the RO150, then I would probably purchase the ETS 150/5.
the RO150 is not a 'fine' sander... The /3 is can leave a 'fine' surface (depending on your exact definition of fine) - there are limits to what a RoS can do.... The /5 with 120 to 150 can leave a pretty nice surface, but not 'fine' --- the scratch pattern on the /5 is really not compatible with 180 and above...
Kev
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hhh said:
You can achieve fine sanding with the ROTEX - it's just bigger and more awkward.
When you look at the festool sanders, you also need to think in conjunction with their abrasives and sanding classifications. All sanders mentioned thus far in this thread can achieve "fine" sanding. There's a Festool document that explains the classifications by sander (I'm not talking about the sage decision tree) ... If I can locate it I'll post back.
windmill man
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150/3 will give the best results for finish sanding. Rotex and 150/5 have to big of an orbit
jmarkflesher
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150/3 for fine sanding and a fine finish. Ro 150 to take off lacquer and paint. both 6 inch paper. Call Bob Marino to give you all the info 1-866-FESTOOL. MARK
The only difference in these two sanders is the speed in which they can get the work done and the vibration they transmit to your hand. The sandpaper is what leaves the surface on your material and the sander just moves the paper. The 150/3 will not leave a better surface than the 150/5 and I know a lot of folks use the 150/5 (again for the speed at which they can get the sanding done) however, I have used both long term and my very favorite sander is the 150/3. It's just noticeably smoother in use, and does a great job sanding anything I've tried to sand with it.
Chris...
Chris...
jmarkflesher
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I disagree with ccmviking. The orbit of the 150\3 is smaller than the orbit of the 150\5 thus using the same grit sandpaper the 150\3 will have a finer surface finish.
As stated previously, the /5 will get you a nice surface, but not a fine finish. The 5mm pattern is too large.... Full stop.
The /3 will get you far closer in the 180/220 range, but RoS taps-out around there -- it's not a FT thing, but just the nature of the technology. At some level, you can't get a really fine surface with RoS at all, but that is another post...
As an experiment, take a /5 and /3 to a lacquer table top with 320 and look at the scratch pattern... Now go over the surface with an R2E or 400 -- see the difference? Now rub-out by hand with #0000 -- see the difference? If you work with fine finishes, these differences are very noticeable to the customer... Things change when you move from wood to production/automotive/solid surface/etc - this is the realm of the DO, but that's a different animal...
The /3 will get you far closer in the 180/220 range, but RoS taps-out around there -- it's not a FT thing, but just the nature of the technology. At some level, you can't get a really fine surface with RoS at all, but that is another post...
As an experiment, take a /5 and /3 to a lacquer table top with 320 and look at the scratch pattern... Now go over the surface with an R2E or 400 -- see the difference? Now rub-out by hand with #0000 -- see the difference? If you work with fine finishes, these differences are very noticeable to the customer... Things change when you move from wood to production/automotive/solid surface/etc - this is the realm of the DO, but that's a different animal...
jmarkflesher said:
You can by all means disagree but it still won't make you right. The paper is what puts the finish on the wood, not the sander. What stroke do you use when hand sanding? Can you get a fine finish hand sanding? The sander is just moving the paper. You can get a "fine" finish with either or those sanders and I'm sure you'd be happy with either of them.
Chris...
windmill man
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Jerry,
Take what you will, from the advice in this thread. 150/3 is the sander you need for a fine finish. Its that simple. It is a very well balance machine that will serve you well. You will be able to sand any materials from woods (finished / unfinished) to resins and plastics and get flawless swirl free results.
I think certain individuals should review there advice.
Festool make the 5 for general sanding and the 3 for fine sanding.
If you dont believe me take both sanders with the same grit paper(high grit count) and sand any solid surface product . You will imediatley see the difference the 5 will leave a smoth surface with a swirl pattern and the 3 will leave a smoth surface with no noticale swirl ( unless you get the microscope out) This is why you will find the 3 in body shops.
If you are still undecided make use of the 30day return policey
John
Take what you will, from the advice in this thread. 150/3 is the sander you need for a fine finish. Its that simple. It is a very well balance machine that will serve you well. You will be able to sand any materials from woods (finished / unfinished) to resins and plastics and get flawless swirl free results.
I think certain individuals should review there advice.
Festool make the 5 for general sanding and the 3 for fine sanding.
If you dont believe me take both sanders with the same grit paper(high grit count) and sand any solid surface product . You will imediatley see the difference the 5 will leave a smoth surface with a swirl pattern and the 3 will leave a smoth surface with no noticale swirl ( unless you get the microscope out) This is why you will find the 3 in body shops.
If you are still undecided make use of the 30day return policey
John
jmarkflesher
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Chris, I'd agree with you if you were right. He is not looking at an in-line sander but the 150/5 or the 150/3. MARKccmviking said:
My two cents on sanders in general maybe you can extrapolate something that helps you
RO 150 FEQ-->Large surface workhorse
This has been my goto workhorse (use it for 80% of my job due to time savings) for large surface projects that don't require an absolutely exquisite finish. If I follow my grits from a stronger grit all the way down to the finer grits and follow with the sheepskin grit, I can make a piece of wood SHINE without even applying a finish with this sander. So no scratch patterns if you can go fine enough in grit (but sometimes you can't go that fine in grit because you can't apply finishes as effectively if you go down to fine on your grits---i.e. the need for a finer finish sander that can get less scratch pattern at a higher grit).
Gets most of your sanding done on large pieces FAST (which is why it is my goto workhorse).
RS 2 E-->Large FLAT surface fine sander
Does better on large flat surfaces (I think this is due to the circular edges of sanders with a circular pad digging in ever so slightly into the worksurface...RS 2 E won't do that.). It also has very fine sanding stroke so will not leave any scratch patterns---not as fast even with higher grit, but it is a finisher for sure.
RO 90 DX-->Smaller surface workhorse
For surfaces that don't have a wide surface, this sander is easier to hold and still gets the job done FAST like the RO150---can also get into corners, angle it around things, with a little creativity and soft pads and applicators, you can even do some profiles.
ETS 150/3
Great finisihing sander, use this where RO leaves off for those exquisite finish requirement projects. Easier to control for fine finish (RO150 is not as easy to keep from "getting itself into the work surface" as it is shaped/balanced more for removal efforts in my opinion as opposed to fine finish---it can be done, but its easier to mess up with the RO150.)
Hand scrapers shouldn't be overlooked:
Good Hand Scrapers
Good Gooseneck Hand Scrapers
Saves on paper. It also has the ability to save you time as you don't have to cycle through the grits---it does take some practice and it does take some elbow grease...some would argue, you get a better surface with scrapers too.
For fine sanding, some people don't use machines at all
. Yep good old hand sanding is what I use on my 'last pass' sometimes (and only outside upwind weather permitting).
Other sanders have benefits too, these are just the ones I think you might be looking at right now...and you always have that 30 days to test em' (careful you will probably keep everything you 'test' as you will see how each product will help you! )
RO 150 FEQ-->Large surface workhorse
This has been my goto workhorse (use it for 80% of my job due to time savings) for large surface projects that don't require an absolutely exquisite finish. If I follow my grits from a stronger grit all the way down to the finer grits and follow with the sheepskin grit, I can make a piece of wood SHINE without even applying a finish with this sander. So no scratch patterns if you can go fine enough in grit (but sometimes you can't go that fine in grit because you can't apply finishes as effectively if you go down to fine on your grits---i.e. the need for a finer finish sander that can get less scratch pattern at a higher grit).
Gets most of your sanding done on large pieces FAST (which is why it is my goto workhorse).
RS 2 E-->Large FLAT surface fine sander
Does better on large flat surfaces (I think this is due to the circular edges of sanders with a circular pad digging in ever so slightly into the worksurface...RS 2 E won't do that.). It also has very fine sanding stroke so will not leave any scratch patterns---not as fast even with higher grit, but it is a finisher for sure.
RO 90 DX-->Smaller surface workhorse
For surfaces that don't have a wide surface, this sander is easier to hold and still gets the job done FAST like the RO150---can also get into corners, angle it around things, with a little creativity and soft pads and applicators, you can even do some profiles.
ETS 150/3
Great finisihing sander, use this where RO leaves off for those exquisite finish requirement projects. Easier to control for fine finish (RO150 is not as easy to keep from "getting itself into the work surface" as it is shaped/balanced more for removal efforts in my opinion as opposed to fine finish---it can be done, but its easier to mess up with the RO150.)
Hand scrapers shouldn't be overlooked:
Good Hand Scrapers
Good Gooseneck Hand Scrapers
Saves on paper. It also has the ability to save you time as you don't have to cycle through the grits---it does take some practice and it does take some elbow grease...some would argue, you get a better surface with scrapers too.
For fine sanding, some people don't use machines at all
. Yep good old hand sanding is what I use on my 'last pass' sometimes (and only outside upwind weather permitting).Other sanders have benefits too, these are just the ones I think you might be looking at right now...and you always have that 30 days to test em' (careful you will probably keep everything you 'test' as you will see how each product will help you! )
ccarrolladams
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Back in January 2006, when I started to buy Festools, I already owned more than enough other brands of electric tools to efficiently build custom cabinets.
The precision and efficiency of the TS55 and OF1010 router were immediately apparent to me. I admit I was slower to embrace the Festool sanders. I must have tried the RO150 6 or more times at my dealer before I bought one. As I experimented with adjusting the suction volume to change the performance of the RO150, as I gained experience and confidence I felt "at one" with that sander, in finish mode.
After using my RO150 for several months, I bought the ETS150/3. My thinking was that the RO150 already had a 5mm stroke. I must say the ETS150/3 with a hard pad is my go-to finish sander then the surface is large enough. Sometime in 2007 I bought a Deltex DX93 for corners where the 150mm pads could not reach. I bought all the other non-air sanders along the way, finding uses for each. I really like the RO 90 DX with a hard pad for sanding face frames and edge banding. Early this year I did buy an ETS150/5. It turns out I like it more today than I did in 2007, especially with Granat.
The precision and efficiency of the TS55 and OF1010 router were immediately apparent to me. I admit I was slower to embrace the Festool sanders. I must have tried the RO150 6 or more times at my dealer before I bought one. As I experimented with adjusting the suction volume to change the performance of the RO150, as I gained experience and confidence I felt "at one" with that sander, in finish mode.
After using my RO150 for several months, I bought the ETS150/3. My thinking was that the RO150 already had a 5mm stroke. I must say the ETS150/3 with a hard pad is my go-to finish sander then the surface is large enough. Sometime in 2007 I bought a Deltex DX93 for corners where the 150mm pads could not reach. I bought all the other non-air sanders along the way, finding uses for each. I really like the RO 90 DX with a hard pad for sanding face frames and edge banding. Early this year I did buy an ETS150/5. It turns out I like it more today than I did in 2007, especially with Granat.
