2 Guide Rails vs. 1 Longer Guiderail

The TSO works perfectly..... I have a large number of rails and I have tried it and measured them. Just to make sure so I would not get bit by assuming they worked. They worked beautifully and painlessly. They kill the problem of the problem associated with connecting rails. I have tried the others. festool and Makita. The TSO connectors are simple and effective.

 
tallgrass said:
The TSO works perfectly..... I have a large number of rails and I have tried it and measured them. Just to make sure so I would not get bit by assuming they worked. They worked beautifully and painlessly. They kill the problem of the problem associated with connecting rails. I have tried the others. festool and Makita. The TSO connectors are simple and effective.

That’s a pretty unequivocal positive testimonial! Thanks.
 
It is always a nice thing when you can put a pet peeve to bed. The connection of the rails has been a sore spot for me for quite some time. The only down side is that I have festool connectors, makita connectors that have now have no place to go..... I guess I will put them in my metal stock bin for future projects....
 
tallgrass said:
The only down side is that I have festool connectors, makita connectors that have now have no place to go..... I guess I will put them in my metal stock bin for future projects....

That's exactly what I did...I pulled the few remaining set screws  [eek]  from the Festool rail connectors and placed the connectors in the steel stock bin for possible re-purposing. One less annoyance in life. [smile]
 
I bought the TSO connectors after reading this and am quite happy I did- they work great and the screws, not slotted like Festool's, make it even better. Any one need a Festool connector?
 
I know it's an old thread, but i'm buying the 3000 rail as soon as I can swing it.

I've got the older Festool connectors and the newer ones.

I will have a perfect 8ft cut on a piece of ply, then next cut will be out almost 1mm along the length.

I know, thats not a huge deal over 8ft, but man, as stated earlier in this thread, i'd take rails apart, then realize i need another long cut, such a pain.

I mean, you can always make more money, but can't make more time. Since kids, every minute counts and time/frustration spent on connecting and disconnecting rails stinks.

I'm even on the fence about another Parallel guide setup so make my life easier lol.
 
A one-piece rail is always better, far easier to handle. The only drawback is storage. If you don't have space for it, joining shorter rails will work.
 
I'm hanging out to get a 2.7m rail for cutting large sheets, the only reason I haven't yet is the cost is so high in OZ, same price as the ETS sander!

I hate how we get screwed for everything in OZ!
 
I eventually got the 3000 rail and made a set of holders for it on a garage wall.  It is great for breaking down sheets at home, but not portable, so I have the joiners for the shorter rails. 

In one of his videos Sedge shows how to use the base of the track saw to align the rails, this is a good trick along with NOT butting the ends together, instead leave a small gap because the ends are not necessarily square.

Moving the joined rails around for multiple cuts can also throw them out of alignment, best to re-check after moving.
 
Jeff Zanin said:
I eventually got the 3000 rail and made a set of holders for it on a garage wall.  It is great for breaking down sheets at home, but not portable, so I have the joiners for the shorter rails. 

In one of his videos Sedge shows how to use the base of the track saw to align the rails, this is a good trick along with NOT butting the ends together, instead leave a small gap because the ends are not necessarily square.

Moving the joined rails around for multiple cuts can also throw them out of alignment, best to re-check after moving.

Yeah, that was my thing; i joined two 1400's with the newer stile connectors ("self aligning"). Like you said, would be great for a couple cuts, but after moving a few times it would get out of whack.

I then went and tried the old method, using the saw across the small gap, and tightening down; I actually found that to work way better and kept the rails way more accurate; even with the newer style connectors.

I still plan to get a 3000 though, it's tiring to keep friggin checking the rails when you have to move it around, and a little bit of weight on the rails with parallel guides as well (I have the Woodpecker parallel guides). I'm actually eyeing to get another set of parallel guides, so i don't have to keep moving em to a smaller rail setup for cross cutting the other way; part of my issue is i've been making some deeper than usual cabinets lately; if smaller it would be more practical to just rip an edge, parallel guide rip the other side, then throw it on the MFT for the cross cuts.
 
Sedge's tip is really for the "I have no other option" type of a situation. One should never use it if accuracy is required AND/OR better ways to align the rails are available.

The best way to join the rails /unless using self-aligning connectors/ is to use a reference straight edge.

The self-aligning connectors are the second best as they depend on the accuracy of the rail ends way more than a straight edge does.

Having a third small rail - like 800 - and a couple clamps is ideal for this in practice as no "waste" hardware is needed then.
 
mino said:
Sedge's tip is really for the "I have no other option" type of a situation. One should never use it if accuracy is required AND/OR better ways to align the rails are available.

The best way to join the rails /unless using a self-aligning connectors/ is to use a reference straight edge.

The self-aligning connectors are the second best as they depend on the accuracy of the rail ends way more than a straight edge does.

Having a third small rail - like 800 - and a couple clamps is ideal for this in practice as no "waste" hardware is needed then.

Couldn't agree more, using something as short as a saw no matter how tight the fit to align 3m of rails is a very agricultural method indeed IMHO. I certainly wouldn't rely on it for anything requiring a high degree of accuracy. I have a long piece of office partitioning capping I know is dead straight for this very purpose.
 
i use the long rail  all the time. i work a lot with 4' x 8' sheets as well as with 8'+ boards. i tend to rip boards, especially for glue-ups, rather with my ts 55 and the long rail instead of ripping on the table saw.
 
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