2019 Miter Saw options?

Their is a battery version of the dws774 but their batteries are 54volt and we use 60volt.I wonder if you can use a 60 volt in their saws?
 
alice said:
Their is a battery version of the dws774 but their batteries are 54volt and we use 60volt.I wonder if you can use a 60 volt in their saws?

The Dewalt 54v battery can read up to 60v (maximum) on a voltmeter if charged full. Under load the 60V max battery gives 54v.

The sticker and wording is different due to marketing.

The 18v under load battery systems when changed to other style battery’s cases people to get confused which to buy in the US when Bosch I think changed.  Then Dewalt decided when going from the internal 18v underload Battery to the slide on battery to call it 20v MAX (vs 20v XR in other parts of the world)

That’s is my understanding from reading different sources.
 
Yesterday in two different tool shops/stores, I looked at the mains powered and cordless Makita. The mains powered versions had detente slop, and the cordless none? This was the case in both shop/stores. I know adjusting will fix it but, still odd that the cordless are rock solid even unlocked?
 
I am going to try to go look this week.  My saw will be shop bound so cordless doesn’t necessarily interest me.  I am also not concerned about weight.  I want to compare the LS1019 VS the LS1219.  For me, I don’t see a downside for the 12” vs the 10”.

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I tried the two-cut test on my 1019l, and sure enough, it's misaligned.

Two issues:
1. The hex bolts are *super* tight. I mean, the lower one is forcing me to bend my hex wrenches. How loose do they need to be?
2. I'm very confused by the cut test result. The two cuts i made appear to be off, but parallel to each other, not skewed. I'm not really sure how twisting the rails would get these two cuts to meet up, if you know what i mean.

Would appreciate any advice anyone has.


https://photos.app.goo.gl/AdWWc3cwxfzjJ9v5A
 

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travisj said:
I am going to try to go look this week.  My saw will be shop bound so cordless doesn’t necessarily interest me.  I am also not concerned about weight.  I want to compare the LS1019 VS the LS1219.  For me, I don’t see a downside for the 12” vs the 10”.

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The bigger the blade the more deflection.
 
It seems to me that the problem with my test cut may be explained if the blade is not parallel with the rails, as i've tried to illustrate in the crude diagram below which is what things look like from birds-eye view. Is there an adjustment screw for this? It would seem like the adjustment would be near the blade's arbor?

I'm not sure that my test cut can be explained with the rails being twisted.
 

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Yep. There is only one way to fix this. Loosen the 2 bolts that attach the rails to the front connector bar. Twist bars and tighten screws. Trial and error till you get the rails untwisted.
 
glass1 said:
Yep. There is only one way to fix this. Loosen the 2 bolts that attach the rails to the front connector bar. Twist bars and tighten screws. Trial and error till you get the rails untwisted.

If the rails being twisted were responsible for this, wouldn't the top of the cut be a different width than the bottom of the cut?
 
I ended up taking my saw into a makita factory service center. They were great, fixed the issue, had to actually replace the arm of the saw, not the rails. But the two cut test now looks great.

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