2200 slows down

[WoodDr.]

I use my 2200 on my router table. When running door styles and rails it works fine but when I run raised panels it will run slow for a few seconds and then speed back up to the regular rpm. I've tried making 4 passes by gradually taking off a little at a time but it makes no difference if I'm cutting 1/4" off or the full depth of the panel bit. I've sent it back to Festool and they could find nothing wrong.

 

[rvieceli]

Could it be the circuit you have it plugged into?

Have you tried a different outlet? Or if you are running off an extension cord is it a heavy enough gauge?

 

[Tayler_mann]

It's the power coming into your shop almost positive. I had this same issue until I upgraded to a 400 amp service and they put a new line in underground. I actually noticed the issue on my old turntable. It was old and the motor was hooked directly to the wall basically. When the voltage of my service would drop the music would slow down and than 5 minutes later speed up. This happened consistently throughout the day and I started noticing it in my tools. Upgraded my service and now everything works splendidly. I do not know where the issues was at but it is now fixed.

 

[Holmz]

The speed could be controller end with a closed loop, electronic speed control, or PID controller.
So it needs a load to slow it down before it speeds it up. At the end it should speed up before it returns to steady state...

 

[WoodDr.]

I've got a (10-2) wire running from my 20amp breaker with the outlet 5' away from the breaker. I have some raised panels to build next week so I will plug straight into that outlet and see if I have any problems.

 

[tjbnwi]

Which panel raising bit? What router speed?

Tom

 

[willsabus]

I had this problem and it gave up just out of warranty.  I eventually traced it back to a broken wire from the electronic to the field winding, it was a thin red wire which looked as though it had been trapped since new. It visited Festool more than once and had many parts changed and kept failing. Its worth looking inside yourself, my one has since been reliable. I have a posting about it. Anyway hope this helps.
Will

 

[WoodDr.]

Tom, I'm using the Freud 3-1/2" dia. bit with back cutter.
I have used many different speeds to see if it makes a difference but it seems the same to me. I usually just put it on 2 and feed the wood slow.

 

[WoodDr.]

I'm also working on a 2" thick farm table made of oak and I am having the same problem with my T55 track saw. It cuts good for about 24-36" and then slows down like it is needing to catch its breath then about 20-30 seconds later it speeds back up to operating speed.

 

[semenza]

I'm also working on a 2" thick farm table made of oak and I am having the same problem with my T55 track saw. It cuts good for about 24-36" and then slows down like it is needing to catch its breath then about 20-30 seconds later it speeds back up to operating speed.

Not sure about the router but in the case of the saw ...... what blade is on it?  Are ripping or cross cutting?

Seth

 

[bobfog]

I'm also working on a 2" thick farm table made of oak and I am having the same problem with my T55 track saw. It cuts good for about 24-36" and then slows down like it is needing to catch its breath then about 20-30 seconds later it speeds back up to operating speed.

Are you sure it's not binding at some point, like hitting a knot in the timber? To be fair the TS 55 isn't really intended for regular use on 2" hardwoods, it's not that powerful a saw. If you do this regularly the TS75 would be a good investment!

 

[WoodDr.]

I'm using the blade that came with the saw. There were no knots and I rarely cut 2"thick material.

 

[Bohdan]

Ripping thick timber with the standard blade will overload the saw and it will shut down to cool off.

Get a panther blade that it designed for ripping and you will be pleasantly suprised by the speed of the cut, but disapointed by the cut surface. Panther blade cuts cannot be called "ready to glue".

 

[semenza]

Yup. The TS55 comes with a Fine blade that is designed to cross cut and cut sheet goods. That is the problem in that case. Especially with 2" oak.

Seth

 

[Michael Kellough]

I'm using the blade that came with the saw. There were no knots and I rarely cut 2"thick material.

That blade is only for cutting sheet goods and cross-cuts in solid wood.

Lest you think that Festool should have included a different blade instead consider that you bought a saw that came with a "combination" blade and you cut plywood. The resulting cut would be rough and you wouldn't be happy.

The blade you need for ripping solid wood cost much less than the blade that came with the saw.

 

[Michael Kellough]

I use my 2200 on my router table. When running door styles and rails it works fine but when I run raised panels it will run slow for a few seconds and then speed back up to the regular rpm. I've tried making 4 passes by gradually taking off a little at a time but it makes no difference if I'm cutting 1/4" off or the full depth of the panel bit. I've sent it back to Festool and they could find nothing wrong.

The only experience I have with BIG electronic speed control routers is the PC 7518 and it does a similar thing. Before loading the wood in it quickly goes up to speed but as I feed the wood in it slows way down as it has to actually do some work. As the work load continues it kicks in more amperage and gets back up to speed but it takes several seconds to get there and especially when hand holding the beast with a lock miter bit those are looong seconds.

 

[tiralie]

I'm also working on a 2" thick farm table made of oak and I am having the same problem with my T55 track saw. It cuts good for about 24-36" and then slows down like it is needing to catch its breath then about 20-30 seconds later it speeds back up to operating speed.

You need to use a "ripping" blade. As you have noted the saw will cut, but does slow down and will stop if it overheats. You can use the 12 or 28 tooth blade on the TS55. The difference is night and day when ripping.
Tim

 

[WoodDr.]

I will be getting a new blade. I mostly cut plywood here at the cabinet shop but I currently have the oak table mentioned and a 8/4 thick by 140-1/2" long by 36" wide walnut top to build.

 

[nickao]

I use a 50 foot 12 gauge cord on my OF 2200 and it doesn't do what you are describing. It certainly slows down when hogging out material as its supposed to, but it doesn't reduce rpm and then go back up after several seconds while going through the same material.

What I do notice is when I first turn it on it hesitates just before starting just a bit. I feel its more than the soft start, it's more of a hesitation no other soft start tool I own has, but other than that it works great.