2x short rails or one long rail?

[Dan1210]

Hmmm i need a solution for making those long rips in 8x4 sheets, for the past 4 years i have been using my 1400 rail then moving it along to finish off the cut, up until now it has served me well but ive noticed quite a few errors lately using this method, obviously a longer rail is the solution but im unsure which route to take. I have been looking at the 2.7 rail for the long rips and this could fit in the van no probs but i have been wondering how well 2x1400 joined together works? a chap i worked with on site once said he had tried it and wasnt impressed with the results, also my rail is a little beat up on the ends now so im guessing the transition between rails wouldnt be great, does anyone have experience with the 2 x shorter rail method?

sorry if this has been asked allready but i couldnt find anything in the search.

Regards Daniel.

 

[Sean7a]

Daniel, go with two rails for two simple reasons.  Storage and mobility.  Both will be much easier with two smaller rails, rather than one cumbersome rail.

As far as accuracy, the beat up end of your rail ain't no thang!  Connect your two rails with two guide rail connectors.  Be sure to leave about a business card sized gap between the two rails.  Next, take your TS 55 or 75 and bridge the gap between the rails with the show of your saw.  Tighten up the eccentric green cams.  Now your rails are in perfect alignment.  Tighten the connectors, pick up the saw and voila.

 

[builderbob]

I'm gonna play devils advocate!  If the longer rail can fit in your mobile setup, get it!  I join two rails only when necessary and have the longer rail in the shop but have the ability to take it with me if needed!  I totally prefer to not have to join the rails. Just a preference thing & only my opinion!

Bob

 

[dltflt]

I would also go with the one long rail if it fits in your van.  I work purely out of my garage/workshop so I do not have to transport.

 

[BobKovacs]

I'd go with the long rail. It's easier to be able to switch back and forth between the long and short rails when switching from long rips to shorter cuts- especially in tight quarters.

 

[festoller]

Dan:

I had the same problem and ended up buying the FS 1900/2 and connected it to a 1400. Just as Festool service told me the precise cuts I had to make in my teak table were 100% perfect! I would recommend two instead of one big guide rail anytime.

You can check this post for some more answers:

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-how-to/festool-guide-rail-joining-2-x-fs-14002-%2855%27%29-vs-fs-24002-%2895%27%29/msg116707/#msg116707

 

[vkumar]

Hmmm i need a solution for making those long rips in 8x4 sheets, for the past 4 years i have been using my 1400 rail then moving it along to finish off the cut, up until now it has served me well but ive noticed quite a few errors lately using this method, obviously a longer rail is the solution but im unsure which route to take. I have been looking at the 2.7 rail for the long rips and this could fit in the van no probs but i have been wondering how well 2x1400 joined together works? a chap i worked with on site once said he had tried it and wasnt impressed with the results, also my rail is a little beat up on the ends now so im guessing the transition between rails wouldnt be great, does anyone have experience with the 2 x shorter rail method?

sorry if this has been asked allready but i couldnt find anything in the search.

Regards Daniel.

I would go with 2 rails.  There is no problem in connecting them.  You just place the connectors in the slot and just slightly snug them.  The place the saw over the joint to perfectly align the 2 rails.  then tighten the screws.  No problems.  i also would go with 2 unequal rails, say a 1900 and a 1080/1400.  This gives you the most flexibility.

Vijay

 

[Kevin Stricker]

Until last month I had been joining rails for the last couple years.  It's fine if you are not to concerned about accuracy and have the time to deal with alignment.  Moving the rails will get them out of alignment and the saw by itself will only get you close, you really need a 4' straight edge to get them dialed.  Big problem is that right now you are probably snapping a line, but once you have a long rail you tend to trust it to be on.  For any cuts where you need it to be straight you better double check your joined rails every cut with the straightedge or sooner or later it will bite you.

I have the 3000 now and LOVE it!  

 

[Guy Ashley]

Dan

It's a personal preference decision based on your work requirements.

I use 2 1400 rails for the following reasons

Easily transportable and storable in Festool protective bag,

A lot of European contractors like us work in houses with small footprints compared to the US, Oz, NZ and SA, (My last domestic built in was in a town house, front door onto pavement, pocket small courtyard garden, no option but to rip and fit in the rooms) Try going up three floors with a 1900 rail.

I put the two rails together, small 2mm gap put your 1.8m spirit level against it, tighten up.

and finally the second rail I have is the 1400 LR32 guide rail so I can put shelving holes, so it is dual purpose.

My set up suits me but I can see the advatages of the long rail, but it's not practical to my type of work.    

 

[peter halle]

You will get many responses on both sides.  I have the 1400 and the 2700.  For sheet goods I swap them out - that way I don't have to cut in a particular sequence.  If I had my way I would have a 3000 instead of the 2700.  If I could not carry the 2700 or longer I would carry the 1400 and the 1900 and join them.

There is a right or wrong answer here.  You can join the rails and be accurate.  It might cut down on your productivity though.

Peter

 

[meatman]

Hi Dan
Great question lots of answers
I've got the 3000 rail and 2 1400s
the 3000 is faster if you have the room to transport it
I looked at it another way I can now rip a 5800mm straight line that's cool

 

[Dan1210]

Thanks guys for the great replys, it seems there are a lot of positives for joining the rails, evidence perhaps that it is up to the job, i can see guys point of view, the houses us brits work in are a lot smaller and the ceiling height usually around 2.4, moving the rail around would be a chore,i would love to have the 2.7 or better yet the 3.0 but 2x smaller rails may be the smart solution for transportation and mobility... but then i need another rail for the cross cuts... Grrrr...having to detach them for this could be a nightmare, if i go the 2 rail route i think i will get the 1400 with the holes as i seem to be doing a lot of custom work lately and drilling them holes can be very time consuming, if i go the long route i think i will get the 2.7 in an IDEAL world and money permitting,
1x3.0 for the shop
2x1.4 for the road
Damn festool so many toys but not enough cash!

Regards Daniel.

 

[LostInTheWood]

, also my rail is a little beat up on the ends now so im guessing the transition between rails wouldnt be great, does anyone have experience with the 2 x shorter rail method?

sorry if this has been asked allready but i couldnt find anything in the search.

Regards Daniel.

I had a few rails where I messed up the ends a bit.  I found that my saw was getting hung up a little when passing over the joint, so I took a fine file and put a slight 45 bevel along the whole profile of the rail and that solved the problem.

As far as rails I have used joined 1400s and I have the 2700.  For me it depends on the job and how much long cutting I need to do.  In short, the 1400s transport much better, but you better check them every few cuts or so to make sure they are still aligned.  If you have your MFT on site use your fence for aligning, it's handy.  Otherwise a third rail or trusted level of good length will do just fine.

 

[jmbfestool]

If your just going to be in a work shop I would get a longer rail as well as having shorter rails cus you can store it easily.  If you go onto site al ot OR work on site only I would go with the two separate rails.

1. Transport
2. Storage
3. Other idiots on the job!  The longer rails aint cheap and you wont be able to stand it up out the way unless your working on a job with tall ceilings so you will have to put it down some where or something! So more chance for another tradesmen damaging your rail. I have had my rail kicked few times when I have it joined together but at least its just one rail which would get damaged so not the end of the world.

I have had no problems joining two rails together its easy to get them BANG ON straight they can take a knock and wont go out of line.  I always start with the rails upside down and join and tighten the connector leaving 1mm gap between the two rails then I have it the right way up and use my 6ft level along the guide bar where your TS sits onto and then tighten the top connector. 

The only thing you have to look out for is that your rails are FLAT  on site you dont often have a great bench setup so your MDF sheet your joining your rails on can be bowed and this affects you lining the rails together when joining its best being on a flat as possible surface to guarantee getting your rails straight as your 6th spirit level doesnt bend with the MDF lol.    Once you have connected the rails and they are lined up then it does not mater so much if the MDF has a few waves as long as its not to much for your rail not to flow with it.

Maybe its just me but if I am just cutting up one sheet of MDF couple trestles or MFT do me lol not going spend ages setting up a proper bench just for one or two cuts unless its an important cut!.

Any more cut and ill make sure the boards are proper supported though.

JMB

 

[Laminator]

Joining rails for rip and then taking them apart for crosscuts is an exasperating task at best.  Having an extra 1400 or the next size up will make  ripping and crosscutting much more convenient.  I carry a 2700 in the van all the time after having to join rails on a jobsite a time or two. 

 

[semenza]

Hi,

I am in the long rail camp for the reasons that have already been stated by others. Also no matter how accuretly the rails get joined 99 times out of 100 dead on it still introduces an unnecessary variable. But if work space and transport makes the long rail impractical then obviously you need to go with short rails.

If you go with short rails I would get three in unequal lengths, so that once you are on site you can leave two connected and cut down on the change outs.  Regardless of how easy it may be to join them, you still have to do it.

Here are a couple more threads you can check out

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tools-accessories/the-long-and-the-short-of-guide-rails/

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tools-accessories/never-buy-the-same-size-rail/

Seth

 

[sl_1800]

I have 2 of the 1400 rails and I wish I had one long one.  It's the time to join them together for just one cut or two.

 

[ajones]

Hi you have awnsered your own question you need a bunch of rails, there is no point in skimping. ok it costs but its money well spent.
as for your 1400 being a bit beat up on the ends just give them a trim. I just bought a new 2.700 and one of the ends is damaged straight out of the box.so I will take a few mm off it when I get a chance. oh and the reason I bought the 2.7 its a pain joining rails and having to keep checking/adjusting during a long cutting session.

 

[waho6o9]

Make a rack for the top of your van and get the longest rail possible. Yeppers, long rails rock!  [big grin]

 

[ccarrolladams]

When I bought my first TS22 in January 2006, with it I bought the accessory kit, a second 1400mm guide rail and a pair of quick clamps.

After breaking down a connected set of rails the third time to make cross cuts, I drove back to my dealer for a third 1400mm rail. From then until late 2009 my method would be to use the third rail to align the connected set. Then I would treat the connected set as if it were a 2700mm rail.

The only reason I did not buy a long rail sooner was I had no convenient way to transport it. In those days I was renting space in the shops of friends, as well as working in a room of my condo.

Personally I have never had accuracy problems with carefully connected rails. I have always left a small gap and I have either used a 48" lever or the 55" third rail to ensure the connects rails are aligned. Although I did check alignment every few rips, I never found a problem.

As soon as I decided to use a larger room of my condo as a shop, I did buy a 2700mm rail. Having measured the room I realized I would need to duck under a 3000mm rail. Once of the first things I bought when I was sure escrow would close on my new shop building was both a 3000mm and a 5000mm guide rail.

Bottom line is that even on small sites with difficult access, you can transport 3 1400mm rails. You cannot always easily get a single long rail where it needs to be in confined spaces.