32mm system for face frame cabinets?

[mwbrewster]

I'm planning a few face frame cabinets for the house but struggling to get out of the design stage.

I've recently put a bunch of frameless cabinets, full overlay doors and drawers together with Festool's LR32 system.  I was drawn to it because of it's speed, simplicity and the fact that it reduces, I feel, the potential for error (doesn't eliminate, just reduces).  I prefer, however the look of beaded inset door and drawer fronts on FF cabinets and I'd like to incorporate the same (True32, Process32, KISS, etc.) process.

I've done a lot of research, especially on True32 and just can't seem to get it through my thick head - why do the doors and drawer fronts have to be a multiple of 32 (minus reveal) for this type of construction if you're not going to be mounting the hardware to the sides of the cabinet?  My first guess is that I'm reading it wrong and won't be able to use a 32mm system with face frames.

To put it simply: How can a 32mm system help me with beaded inset, face frame cabinets?

Thanks in advance for any comments.

 

[lwoirhaye]

No advantage to using it for face frame cabinets imo.

 

[Sparktrician]

No advantage to using it for face frame cabinets imo.

Concur.  In this case, the 32mm system is useful only for processing cabinet sides for shelf hole pins. 

 

[Brice Burrell]

My advice, forget any of the 32mm systems.  There are for production shops to reduce the amount of adjustment to their line boring machines to product a wide range of cabinets.  These systems don't leave much, if any, room for custom sizing.  Also, these systems use offsets that don't work well with the Festool LR32.

I'd suggest you start with a basic design of what you want (frameless or face frame doesn't matter).  Then, spend the time necessary to understand the hardware options so you can make the right choice on what will serve your needs best.  Once you've decide on the hardware you'll likely need to fine tune your design to accommodate your hardware.  Now you're ready to figure out how you're going to build, and you may fine the LR32 isn't the best choice for everything.

Good luck.     

 

[sancho57]

I agree with Brice, Further if your going with non 32mm system you dont need the LR 32 You can use a number of inexpensive jigs to drill holes for your shelfs. If you want you can go with fixed shelfs which will make your build even easier.
Be aware that they do sell euro hinges for FF cabinets. Make sure you buy the ones made for F/F.

 

[JBag09]

I wouldn’t worry about a true 32mm cabinet. I will always put my shelf pin holes 37mm from front of cabinet whether it’s face frame or not. If your not using a true 32, just make sure you always locate your holy rail from either top or bottom of cabinet so the holes match up.
  Since you’d like inset doors, there are euro style hinges that mount to the backside of the face frame, much easier to install before mounting face frames.
Good luck.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[mwbrewster]

Sorry it's taken me a while to get back.  I appreciate all the comments and advice.

lwoirhaye and Sparktrician: That sums it up, thanks.

Brice:  Good advice on the hardware.  I guess that will drive a lot of the design.  I picked up the FF hinges as well as some brackets from Rockler that attach to the inside of the frame so I don't have to block out the sides.  Hope they're a good design and will hold up.

Jobsworth:  I guess I can still use the LR32 to locate/drill the adjustable shelf holes as well as the door cup hinge mortises.

JBag09:  I think I'm going to locate and mount all hardware to the face frame before attaching it to the cabinets. I saw a good video somewhere on that and it makes a lot of sense to me.  Good tip.

Thanks gain for all the info.
Matt

 

[waho6o9]

I like the inset doors on face frames so I use 1.5" stiles and fir out for the Blum soft close hinges.
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[lwoirhaye]

I like the inset doors on face frames so I use 1.5" stiles and fir out for the Blum soft close hinges.
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I've used the inset face frame hinges and I'm not wild about them.  They do allow you to maximize room inside the cabinet, but they stick out in the interior and the screws have a tendency to loosen here and there in the wood with use due to the leveraging action inherent to the design.  Furring out to use standard plates may not be as attractive, but it's a solid way to go.

 

[Brian Livingstone]

Hi,

The way I build inset cabinets is that I install the cabinet sides flush with the inside of the face frame.  The inset hinges work better that way.

Also, for the top and bottoms I install the panel 1/4 inch proud of the inside of the face frame to create a natural door stop.

I am switching to building mostly frameless cabinets.  For my next inset cabinet I am going to use the LR32 for the hinges, shelf pins and boring the 35mm cup hole.

The LR32 system is superb and its benefits can be applied to face frame inset.  More about staying true to the 32mm process and the metric system than anything.

Brian