help with cabinet install

[rvieceli]

It's been a very long time since I have installed cabinets. What is the best practice for joining both face frame bases and face frame wall cabinets together side to side? do I use screws, bolts whatever?

Thanks in advance.

Ron

 

[tjbnwi]

Euro boxes or face frame?

 

[rvieceli]

Face frame

 

[nclemmons]

I've screwed through the face frame inside the doors between cabinets with good success. Keeps the cabinets square and anchored with a flush finish. Countersink them slightly and they should be hidden by the doors.

neil

 

[tjbnwi]

I’m assuming box cabinets which have to be joined during install. These really help with aligning the face frames.

https://www.amazon.com/PONY-Cabinet-8510-Installing-Cabinets/dp/B09XM2BC5V/ref=asc_df_B09XM2BC5V?mcid=1edf6fc8380937ae89f89befece0d1c3&hvocijid=3257591253846802434-B09XM2BC5V-&hvexpln=73&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=721245378154&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3257591253846802434&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029029&hvtargid=pla-2281435180538&th=1

You should receive some type of plan or installation instructions.

Most commonly the sink is centered under the window if there is a window on the sink wall.

Find the high spot of the floor, this is your elevation datum (laser works best). You need to decide if you want to trim the cabinet at the high point or shim the surrounding to the elevation.

Sight the walls for straightness. If you see issues laser, level or string will help you decide how bad it is.

As you install align the faces using string.

Most commonly elevation for the upper cabinets is 54” AFF.

The cabinets must be plumb and level on all planes, the straighter you get them the better.

Scribing them to walls can be fun, make sure you account for any trim or hardware interference.

Trim is just trim.

If you have elevations and plan views, post them, they’ll help with more suggestions.

Tom

 

[kevinculle]

I have used stainless steel #7 trim screws for this purpose and had good results. The 2-1/4" length works well with face frame widths of 1-1/4" to 1-1/2". I predrill the entry side to 9/64" and countersink to allow the head of the trim screw to sit just below flush. Once aligned and clamped I then drill through that entry hole with a 7/64" bit to full depth. In very hard woods you may want to go up to 1/8" on the pilot hole to reduce torque needed to tighten the screw.

 

[Packard]

How were the face frames attached to the box? If they were not securely attached, then I would use both screws through the face frames to the adjacent face frame and screws through the box to the adjacent box.

The risk, of course, is if the face frames is to securely fastened to the boxes, that they will be pulled free. If you have built the cabinets yourself and are confident about the attachment, then feel free to ignore this advice.

 

[Redromad]

If you aren't screwing through the face frame, you can screw the boxes together in front of the hinge plate. then it will be covered by the hinge once the doors are installed.

 

[Packard]

They were not available when I last installed cabinets, but I would definitely get a pair if I were to do so today. Face frame clamps are available from Bessey, Kreg and others. I have not tested these but they look very helpful.

 

[tjbnwi]

The face frame clamps work really well. They allow you to bring the cabinets together and shift them front to rear.

One suggestion I have is after you drill the pilot hole, flip up the drill guide, redrill the o face frame with a screw clearence hole. This prevents the screw from acting like a jack. Just be careful not to drill too deep.

These are Pony l brand, I believe they were first to market 20 or so years ago.





Tom