3D Printing as a shop tool and my new LS130 Sander

[Cheese]

Thanks for the heads-up Ron...

 

[jbasen]

Fantastic...I really appreciate the info from both of you. [thumbs up]

I really need to do some research into this further. Thanks for the references.

I did read a few days ago that 3D printing was now available for use with aluminum. Again, I placed this within the reference frame that I was familiar with which was the $20K number. Thus I dismissed it. I'd be willing to spend up to $5K for some CNC/3D printing hardware. I think I'd like the CNC platform to be a bit larger than the 3D platform.

If you are tech savvy, look at the X-Carve cnc, if you are up for a weekend build. Very affordable and can be expanded, then look at the 3D printers for a good starting place. If both are in the same unit you will only be able to do one thing at one time, and then the break down and set up between each becomes another whole factor.
https://www.inventables.com/technologies/x-carve

Next Wave Automation made going between CNC, laser, and 3D printing very easy.  Each device has the same form factor as the Dewalt router that is used for the CNC router function.  So, all you do, for example, is loosen the bolt for the router clamp, slide out the router, slide in the laser engraving head, tighten the bolt, plug the wiring connector into the controller, and you are ready to go.  Pretty much the same for the 3D printer head. 

I have a small shop.  Having separate devices for routing, printing, and laser engraving would never work for me.  Also, as a hobbyist, the time to switch functions or not being able to do two jobs at once isn't an issue either. 

Personally, I can't see anyone in this group going into the business of producing 3D printed objects on their own.  A printing company, like shapeways would be a much better approach.  Take your design and let somebody with much higher quality equipment than is affordable for an individual do the actual printing. 

 

[anthonyz]

Fantastic...I really appreciate the info from both of you. [thumbs up]

I really need to do some research into this further. Thanks for the references.

I did read a few days ago that 3D printing was now available for use with aluminum. Again, I placed this within the reference frame that I was familiar with which was the $20K number. Thus I dismissed it. I'd be willing to spend up to $5K for some CNC/3D printing hardware. I think I'd like the CNC platform to be a bit larger than the 3D platform.

If you are tech savvy, look at the X-Carve cnc, if you are up for a weekend build. Very affordable and can be expanded, then look at the 3D printers for a good starting place. If both are in the same unit you will only be able to do one thing at one time, and then the break down and set up between each becomes another whole factor.
https://www.inventables.com/technologies/x-carve

Next Wave Automation made going between CNC, laser, and 3D printing very easy.  Each device has the same form factor as the Dewalt router that is used for the CNC router function.  So, all you do, for example, is loosen the bolt for the router clamp, slide out the router, slide in the laser engraving head, tighten the bolt, plug the wiring connector into the controller, and you are ready to go.  Pretty much the same for the 3D printer head. 

I have a small shop.  Having separate devices for routing, printing, and laser engraving would never work for me.  Also, as a hobbyist, the time to switch functions or not being able to do two jobs at once isn't an issue either. 

Personally, I can't see anyone in this group going into the business of producing 3D printed objects on their own.  A printing company, like shapeways would be a much better approach.  Take your design and let somebody with much higher quality equipment than is affordable for an individual do the actual printing.

Yes, but Shapeways is expensive depending on what you are making. For making the clip backer plate for the LS130 it cost me about $1.50, on Shapeways it's closer to $20 and if you want a little royalty for your work then it jumps from there. And if you have to figure out a part, then the wait time between each get to be a hassle. But if you are just printing a 1 off of something that had been prototyped to make sure all the bugs are worked out, then it works.

 

[anthonyz]

Just made another attachment on the 3D printer. I had no sander which could get into the handle areas of the dresser I am restoring, even the RO90 was too big and nothing I had, had a low enough profile. Made this clip on riser with a low profile deck and a rounded tip to get in tight to the curved part on the dresser.

 

[waho6o9]

Outstanding work Anthonyz!

 

[bkharman]

On another note... Don't you love the way the 130 works?  About 5 minute learning curve and that thing is your best friend for that project. Doesn't always have its place but when it does, man it does awesome!

I have had mine for about 2 years now... Love it!

Cheers. Bryan.

 

[anthonyz]

On another note... Don't you love the way the 130 works?  About 5 minute learning curve and that thing is your best friend for that project. Doesn't always have its place but when it does, man it does awesome!

I have had mine for about 2 years now... Love it!

Cheers. Bryan.

I had never really looked at it until I went to the Festool training in Vegas. Then I understood it was a linear sander and liked the idea of the profiles. I haven't had a need until now, but with restoring the Dresser I am working on, it was a good move forward to buy one, though it's price is remaining the same. I am loving it in the two days I have had it, and now that I can make my own profiles including different bases I can print, this could be by far the most versatile sander I have.

 

[jbasen]

Fantastic...I really appreciate the info from both of you. [thumbs up]

I really need to do some research into this further. Thanks for the references.

I did read a few days ago that 3D printing was now available for use with aluminum. Again, I placed this within the reference frame that I was familiar with which was the $20K number. Thus I dismissed it. I'd be willing to spend up to $5K for some CNC/3D printing hardware. I think I'd like the CNC platform to be a bit larger than the 3D platform.

If you are tech savvy, look at the X-Carve cnc, if you are up for a weekend build. Very affordable and can be expanded, then look at the 3D printers for a good starting place. If both are in the same unit you will only be able to do one thing at one time, and then the break down and set up between each becomes another whole factor.
https://www.inventables.com/technologies/x-carve

Next Wave Automation made going between CNC, laser, and 3D printing very easy.  Each device has the same form factor as the Dewalt router that is used for the CNC router function.  So, all you do, for example, is loosen the bolt for the router clamp, slide out the router, slide in the laser engraving head, tighten the bolt, plug the wiring connector into the controller, and you are ready to go.  Pretty much the same for the 3D printer head. 

I have a small shop.  Having separate devices for routing, printing, and laser engraving would never work for me.  Also, as a hobbyist, the time to switch functions or not being able to do two jobs at once isn't an issue either. 

Personally, I can't see anyone in this group going into the business of producing 3D printed objects on their own.  A printing company, like shapeways would be a much better approach.  Take your design and let somebody with much higher quality equipment than is affordable for an individual do the actual printing.

Yes, but Shapeways is expensive depending on what you are making. For making the clip backer plate for the LS130 it cost me about $1.50, on Shapeways it's closer to $20 and if you want a little royalty for your work then it jumps from there. And if you have to figure out a part, then the wait time between each get to be a hassle. But if you are just printing a 1 off of something that had been prototyped to make sure all the bugs are worked out, then it works.

I was only thinking of a company like shapeways for an item that would be sold to multiple people.  I designed the cover plate for the TS-75.  It takes well over an hour to print.  If I were to try manufacturing and selling it myself it could turn into a full time effort given the time it takes to print.  This is where a print service, to me, makes more sense.  Since I wasn't interested in making money off the design I just posted the stl files on the FOG and thingiverse so anyone can download it, either print one themselves, or find a service to print one for them.  I've read that some UPS stores are even offering print services.  There are more and more options these days.

 

[Gjarman12]

[member=34574]anthonyz[/member] How big of a surface do you need to print the generic base for the LS130 to make your own pads? Being able to do this might push me over the fence on the sander.

 

[anthonyz]

[member=34574]anthonyz[/member] How big of a surface do you need to print the generic base for the LS130 to make your own pads? Being able to do this might push me over the fence on the sander.

The size of the printed backer to adhere the foam to is about 3-1/8 x 5-5/16. It's great now that I can make any profile I want, this sander will quickly become one of the most used in the shop, with the ability to customize pads. My printer bed is 4x8.

 

[Gjarman12]

[member=34574]anthonyz[/member] THANKS. Where do you get your foam, and has the Velcro held up so far?

 

[anthonyz]

[member=34574]anthonyz[/member] THANKS. Where do you get your foam, and has the Velcro held up so far?

The foam I am currently using is Polystyrene foam from Home Depot/Lowes. It was about $12 for a 24x96" Sheet. Enough to make about 128 pads.  The velcro I got was a 4" wide by the foot and was Contact cemented on. I have yet to have any problems. The only thing is the Polystyrene foam will melt a little when applying the contact cement, but it held up just fine to glue it to the printer backer pad.

 

[bthewitt]

[member=34574]anthonyz[/member] I'd like to purchase the model you are 3d printing for the LS130, and went to your website but it appears no longer active. Can you share the file here or on Thingiverse?

 

[afish]

[member=34574]anthonyz[/member], BADA$$ is all I can say.  I too immediately thought of printing the entire profile and possibly using those thin hand sanding sponges if some can be found with a Velcro back.  However, if I can be so bold is to think about adding some barbs to the 3d printed backer plate like the photos below (you would obviously need to adjust size ).  Or possibly printing some short foam type screws. that could attach from the back side.  Im thinking a dozen small single (not double like the photo) barbs on the plate that would simply push into the foam would hold it on there very securely with no glue.  I have been hesitating getting a 3d printer partly because my 3d cad skills arnt great I tried fusion 360 and hated it.  Im good in sketch up and 2d cad but felt lost in F360 and after about 10min was ready to toss my computer in the pool.  Can sketch up files be used to make 3d prints? I havent messed with it much but thought I had seen a stl plugin for it.  Ill have to dig in deeper now. I was on the fence about getting a 3d printer but this has pushed me over the edge.   

 

[Michael Kellough]

Keep in mind that the LS130 pad/base doesn’t get moved much to start with so anything you put on the pad that has flexibility or give will further diminish the movement of the abrasive.

 

[afish]

Yes, thats why I suggested the "thin" sanding sponge pads they should provide just enough cushion to eliminate any hard lines and conform to any imperfections but thin enough to still get the job done and not waste much of the sanders efforts Something like the Festool 497091 or the 3m sanding sponges like thesehttps://www.amazon.com/Sanding-Spon...84S/ref=sr_1_6?crid=3EPHCUS7CXZXM&keywords=3m+sanding+sponge&qid=1653331239&sprefix=3m+sanding+spong%2Caps%2C122&sr=8-6

 

 

[smorgasbord]

Klingspor sells a HookIt sheet that you can cut to fit. It's got a PSA sticky side and the other side in the velcro hooks.
https://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/vc12040/

I would think one could cut this to fit, including holes for the dust collection.

And while I'm here, with my new LS 130 coming, I'm interesting in finding some hard pads. The standard flat pad is a bit too soft for some uses. It looks like the long pad doesn't have the foam - could I get one of those and cut off the protruding lip? I don't have  3D printer, unfortunately, so I'd like to find designs somewhere I could order....