3D printing options

[cdconey]

IMO learning 3D printing is similar to learning how to use a CNC.

3D is additive

CNC is subtractive

It's definitely not plug and play as some suggest.

 

[luvmytoolz]

IMO learning 3D printing is similar to learning how to use a CNC.

3D is additive

CNC is subtractive

It's definitely not plug and play as some suggest.

I'd actually say 3D is a bit more difficult. On a CNC everything is just a vertical line to be machined at different depths. With 3D however you have to plan appropriate supports for part of the model that are hanging in space as it's being printed. For a filament printer probably not so bad, but for my resin printer I find this a real pita and it takes considerable planning and modelling.

 

[WillAdams]

A slicer interface is usually not much more than a list of parameters --- not much more complex than a single toolpath in a CAM program --- it's a pretty simple file/part which has only one toolpath.

Alternately, there is:
https://fullcontrolgcode.com/

 

[mino]

A slicer interface is usually not much more than a list of parameters --- not much more complex than a single toolpath in a CAM program --- it's a pretty simple file/part which has only one toolpath.
...

TLDR:
This would be close, if you spoke about micro-electronics making CNCs which operate in the 0.0001" and better accuracy area. Not "normal" workshop CNCs which are indeed very much plug&play.

================
To see my point, just get a Prusa Slicer, enable advanced/expert settings, and see how many of those tunables you understand/comprehend what exactly they do.
I have a pretty strong Physics and Math background, then about 100+ different prints, with 1000+ printed pieces, some very close to the limits of the printers so had to tune a lot, yet I would not claim to truly understand the behavior of more that 10% of the tunables there.

Unlike with a CNC there is a LOT of analog "tricks" which enable any competent FDM printer of today to print *beyond* its physical precision capabilities.

In a simple metaphor:
A (modern) FDM printer has its mechanics made with a +/- 0.01" precision. YET it is capable to print with the accuracy approaching 0.001" (!).

And that is not even going into the synergy between the firmware and the Slicer where some trics are done on firmware, some on slicer and they absolutely need to match.

There is a whole lot of difference between a Prusa (or Bambu for that matter) and various Prusa clones. DO NOT buy those unless you are or want to become a low level expert in the field of printer firmware.

All (serious) FDM printer makers have heavily tuned firmware to their hardware which compensates in software all the limitations of their mechanical designs.

Case in point:
Were one to "upgrade" a Prusa MK series with stiffer rods, it would worsen the print quality(!) under most cases. This is because the elasticity and hysteresis of the rods is already accounted for in the firmware and slicer, so if one makes them stiffer (or weaker) it causes a mismatch.

This is also why most Prusa "clones" are a mess. It is not enough to buy "same-class" components for the (open source) firmware to work. One needs to spend several hundreds of thousands of printer hours to tune the firmware to the particular combination of components. This is why Prusa costs 2x as much compared to "same HW" clones and is never fastest-to-the-race with new features. It takes easily a year to tune the firmware for a new printer design, once done on the HW side.

As for Bambu:
Actually, above is what sets them appart from (most) other wanna-be's. They made a pretty big investment (big banks/gov backing) to do the tuning *before* releasing a product. Sure, they piggy-backed on a LOT of open-source stuff and refuse to contribute back, but that is the morals part. They still did a lot of work in the tuning side (think 1/2 of Prusa work, just closed-source/not contributed back to community).

Most other guys just (Hey! Creality!) throw-out hardware assemblies with little to no tuning of the firmware. Resulting in "casual customer" frustrations.

Long story short:
When buying an FDM 3D printed for work, always keep in mind that about 1/2 the price of a serious product is in the firmware and software tuning/support. This is why I made the iPhone analogy earlier - very different products, but the hardware to software value ratios are about comparable there. An iPhone sans the average 10 yrs of software updates and tuning would be worth about half of what it is.

When buying for a kid, getting something from a "HW pile" maker like Creality may not be a bad idea.
As long as one understands the goal then is not to print but for the kid to learn how to code, tune firmware, learn a lot of physics, and realize how frustrating a low-quality product can be. Which may indeed be what is called for, besides a more economical choice.

 

[smorgasbord]

=vBM_DdZYG3o0qUeX

 

[rmwarren]

I'll chime in with a basically good experience, from a low-fiddle low-cost perspective.

Started out spending $600 ~8 years ago for a Kickstarter printer I could never get working. Then about 3 years ago I tiptoed back in with a $260 Creality 3 v2, mostly because I didn't want to spend more and discover I had another paperweight.

Only tweaks I made were to install stiffer bed leveling springs, spend the time to level it manually, and replace the nozzle with a random Amazon buy. I clean the glass bed after each print with IPA, no other bed treatment. Software wise I've learned to always print with a raft, after having warping issues. Basic Cura slicer profile otherwise, supports if needed. Generic Amazon PLA.

For design I spent the time learning F360 to the point I can whack out most designs in < 30 minutes, many only take 10. Export the stl, drop it into the slicer, orient and output the gcode.

After all this I haven't had a bad print in months. I often need to print, adjust the design and reprint but that's not due to the tech stack. I'm getting results within a few thousandths on an inch, sometimes I need to lightly sand or break/debur the edges depending on the use, for example I print 20mm dogs that fit as well as professionally machined dogs.

My takeaway is there definitely is a learning curve however it's possible to get consistently good results without a lot of fuss. If I could justify it I'd replace this setup with the Bambu or similar enclosed printer that could handle ABS or reinforced Nylon.

Just my dos pesos.

RMW

 

[Mini Me]

I bless the day we bought our Prusa. Prototyping before we had it cost a serious amount of money but now we can spit out revisions for next to nothing and get them when we need them not when a machine shop can fit in odd jobs. It literally paid for itself on the first day and shortened the design time by nearly a year in one case. I am no longer involved in that sort of work but I still have the printer and it now only gets occasional use which is still handy for bits and pieces.

 

[smorgasbord]

Prusa user converted to Bambu labs a year ago with no regrets: