!440 to cut grooves in rails and stiles
- Thread starter Boski
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woodbutcherbower
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How thick are the rails/stiles, and how wide/deep do you need the grooves to be?
At the moment I have 18mm MDF, I was hoping to slot some 6mm ply into them or similar.
I'm not to bothered about this particular job, but want to know for the future if it can be done, how and will I need specific dimensions to timber to make it work.
Thanks for the reply.
I'm not to bothered about this particular job, but want to know for the future if it can be done, how and will I need specific dimensions to timber to make it work.
Thanks for the reply.
I do this with a tongue and groove router bit set (Whiteside) with my router mounted in a router table.
If I seat the groove bit all the way into the collet when I make those cuts, then replacing the tongue bit all the way into the collet does not require any additional adjustment.
However, I find it very difficult to get the groove perfectly setup to the exact middle of the stock. For that reason I make a pencil mark on the upper surface. As long as I keep all the marks on the same side of the door, alignment is OK.
Make sure all the stock is the exact same thickness, or you will have rails and stiles with obvious joints.
I cannot imagine a reasonable way to do this operation without the router mounted in a router table. There might be a way to do this. I don’t know what that way is.
But most often, I do these operations on the table saw with a dado blade. I use a tenoning jig for the stub tenons.
If I seat the groove bit all the way into the collet when I make those cuts, then replacing the tongue bit all the way into the collet does not require any additional adjustment.
However, I find it very difficult to get the groove perfectly setup to the exact middle of the stock. For that reason I make a pencil mark on the upper surface. As long as I keep all the marks on the same side of the door, alignment is OK.
Make sure all the stock is the exact same thickness, or you will have rails and stiles with obvious joints.
I cannot imagine a reasonable way to do this operation without the router mounted in a router table. There might be a way to do this. I don’t know what that way is.
But most often, I do these operations on the table saw with a dado blade. I use a tenoning jig for the stub tenons.
Michael Kellough
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The router can easily handle an inexpensive three wing slot cutter but they are made in limited sizes that may not match the panel thickness. In that case you can adjust the bit height and make another pass. The 1400 like all Festool routers provides micro-adjustment of the plunge depth.
Lay two pieces of stock on the table with a sufficient gap between them to so you only mill one piece at a time. Secure the stock from sliding. Run the bearing against the stock to make a full depth slot (usually 1/2”). For the stiles you can stop and start short of the end to avoid a useless gap that you’ll want to fill.
If you only want to make one pass that perfectly fits the panel use an adjustable slot cutter like the Amana 55500. Also available for a little less at Infinity (may be labeled Infinity instead but the one I bought there says Amana)
Lay two pieces of stock on the table with a sufficient gap between them to so you only mill one piece at a time. Secure the stock from sliding. Run the bearing against the stock to make a full depth slot (usually 1/2”). For the stiles you can stop and start short of the end to avoid a useless gap that you’ll want to fill.
If you only want to make one pass that perfectly fits the panel use an adjustable slot cutter like the Amana 55500. Also available for a little less at Infinity (may be labeled Infinity instead but the one I bought there says Amana)
Michael Kellough said:
I have a tongue and groove set that is adjustable and came with a bunch of shims. The instructions were so complicated that I never used it and instead bought a simpler fixed size one.
When I get home I will get the part number and manufacturer. (It came in a very deluxe plastic case.) I could not find any online videos back when I bought it. I have not checked since. The fixed size set does everything I want. I’ve used it but I prefer using the table saw. Maybe if I had a lift assembly for my router table I would use it more.
Michael Kellough
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Using a tongue cutter to make tenons on the ends of the rails would be tricky without a router table.
An MFT might be easy enough with proper outboard support for the router.
Maybe even just a rail square and support.
And shop made jigs that you would use if you didn’t have Festool stuff could be made to work.
An MFT might be easy enough with proper outboard support for the router.
Maybe even just a rail square and support.
And shop made jigs that you would use if you didn’t have Festool stuff could be made to work.
woodbutcherbower
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[member=79993]Boski[/member] The only tool you've mentioned is the OF1400, so I'm assuming you don't have a table saw, router table, MFT etc. - so the only other thing you'll need is a parallel fence for your router if you don't already have one. There are two simple ways you can groove stiles - I explained them in this thread around halfway down, including the reason why stile grooves should be slightly offset from the middle line. If you prefer the 'plan B' method of using a bearing guided slot cutter (towards the end of the thread) - you won't even need a parallel fence. This method also allows you to set your router on the face of the stile instead of the edge;
https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/...700-edge-router-in-addition-to-of1010-router/
I hope that makes sense. If it doesn't, post back and I'll provide whatever clarification you need.
Kevin
https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/...700-edge-router-in-addition-to-of1010-router/
I hope that makes sense. If it doesn't, post back and I'll provide whatever clarification you need.
Kevin
Another option, and one that I’ve used with cane front cabinet doors is mitered corners.
I used dowels, but I’ve seen them done with biscuits and with dominoes. In that case only the groove has to be cut.
I liked the dowels because they lock in alignment in all directions so that the miters pull in nicely while being clamped.
I used the Rockler dowel jig (on sale now @$20.00) which includes the jig, the drill bit and the depth stop and Allen wrench.
A tip with the Rockler jig: Clamp the stock in a vise first and the clamp the jig to the stock. I found it very difficult to drill the holes if the stock was not held still in a bench vise.
https://www.rockler.com/rockler-doweling-jig-kit-with-bit-and-stop-collar
The major objection to mitered corners is that each rectangle will require 4 bar clamps. If you can get past that, they are easy to do.
I used dowels, but I’ve seen them done with biscuits and with dominoes. In that case only the groove has to be cut.
I liked the dowels because they lock in alignment in all directions so that the miters pull in nicely while being clamped.
I used the Rockler dowel jig (on sale now @$20.00) which includes the jig, the drill bit and the depth stop and Allen wrench.
A tip with the Rockler jig: Clamp the stock in a vise first and the clamp the jig to the stock. I found it very difficult to drill the holes if the stock was not held still in a bench vise.
https://www.rockler.com/rockler-doweling-jig-kit-with-bit-and-stop-collar
The major objection to mitered corners is that each rectangle will require 4 bar clamps. If you can get past that, they are easy to do.
