8' track for TS55

Rick Herrick

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Feb 7, 2020
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Hello folks.  First post on FOG, glad this place is around.  Did a bit of woodworking 30 years ago and then the kids came.  Just getting back into it a few months ago.  Had not even considered FT until a couple weeks ago.  Trying to prep for retirement so getting what I can, while the paychecks are bigger.

Bought my first FT, a ETS EC 125/3 a couple days ago, only played with it a little so far.  Just took delivery of 12 sheets of plywood for some shop projects.  Breaking down sheet goods is very frustrating for me, so far.  I need a much better method so I have decided the TS55 is the way to go.

Hoping to pick it up today and called my local dealer on availability of it and the 106" track.  They have both but two of their guys suggested the 118" instead for 4x8 plywood use.  Said the 106 may not be quite as useful.  Any opinions on this?  Seems 10" longer than the ply would be just fine but I don't want to make a purchase mistake either.  Thank you.

Rick
 
Welcome. 106" is fine for the TS55. The 118" is what you would use for the TS75. Can the 118" work for the TS55? Sure. Just a little bit more expensive and a little bit longer.
 
With the longer 118" track you don't have to plunge into the panel at the start or alternatively lift the blade while still in the panel at the end of the cut.

You have enough length that you can plunge before entry and exit while still plunged. For some users, especially novices, this can eliminate a lot of problems with the cut edge quality.
 
Thank you for the quick responses.  I like having the extra length for entry and exit but the longer 118 seemed like it might get in the way, one way or another.  I guess I have 30 days to decide and swap out if I don't like it.  Appreciate the input.

Rick
 
Go for the 118 if your workspace will allow it.  No 30 day exchange on the rails to the best of my knowledge.  They are an accessory; not a tool.

Peter
 

Attachments

Cheese said:
If you're breaking down sheet goods I'd suggest that purchasing one of these is almost mandatory.  [smile]  You only need one on a 8' sheet of material.
https://tsoproducts.com/tso-guide-rail-squares/grs-16-guide-rail-square/

Or this one if you want your handles to match...

Actually I just saw this demo'd last night in a Ron Paulk video.  Looks very interesting.  Going to find a few more videos and see how folks are liking it.  Not worried about matching just yet.. [smile]  I just got in my TSO Bigfoot for my Domino (it will match that), which I haven't even bought yet... Yep, I am drinking the green koolaid.. Thanks for the tip.
 
I have the 106 and the 118, go with the 118.

Another video on the TSO PG's, as with all my videos, unedited, what you see is what happened in real time.;


Tom
 
118” is the only workable solution that guarantees straight cuts without some finagling. The design of the TS series saws requires more track for starting when compared to the Mafell track saw. Of course if you had the Mafell you would not need to buy a single piece long rule as the connector is significantly better than the Festool rail connector.
 
Get the 3meter rail,  I have a TS55, I can't see having the rail any shorter when breaking down plywood.
 
TSO connectors work great for joining FT rails. HIGHLY recommended. But, 3000 rail is the one to get as others have said.
 
tjbnwi said:
I have the 106 and the 118, go with the 118.

Another video on the TSO PG's, as with all my videos, unedited, what you see is what happened in real time.;


Tom


Hi Tom, thanks for the video.  I just picked up the TS55 and the 118" rail.  Still watching videos.  I have newbie question.  One of the benefits of the track saw is laying it down on your mark, and go.  What extra benefits do things like GRS-16 give me?  Sometimes it takes time for things to sink in so just looking for more understanding.
 
Rick Herrick said:
What extra benefits do things like GRS-16 give me?  Sometimes it takes time for things to sink in so just looking for more understanding.

The benefit of the GRS-16 is to quickly get your track guide square from the back edge as reference. If the factory edges are beated up, you will want to make a clean cut on one edge by removing a thiny straight cut (with or without the GRS-16). Once you have that cut made or the factory edge is good enough for you, push the GRS-16 tight on that edge.

P.S. The longer the track guide the harder it is to get it square. Mainly because of the underlying rubber strips. When dealing with long track guide, I made a pencil mark at both end. Pushing the GRS-16 in position and making sure the track guide is on the pencill mark at the other end.
 
The GRS 16 will allow you to make a cut square to a reference edge.  The sequence is as follows:

1., Make a cut to establish a clean straight cut line to remove any ragged edge from the factory using just the guide rail.
2. Use this cut as the reference and then use the GRS 16 to make a cut perpendicular to this new clean edge.
3. I highly recommend the GRS 16 from TSO.  Very easy to use .
 
On a slight tangent (and forgive me) is there much of difference between the Festool 3 m track and the Makita  3 m track? Other than the cost?
 
I just delivered a 8’ by 7’ reception desk made of 8’ x 4’ Baltic birch plywood. I bought the 118” guide and it worked well. I had a shorter guide that I used for the 4’ or less cuts. Using only the long rail gets awkward. The TS55 worked great.

For the long cuts, I made pencil marks where I wanted the cut to be, laid down the guide, and clamped it down. For the shorter cuts, I made the pencil marks, laid the shorter guide down, checked it with a Woodpecker framing square.

I did the cutting on top of two Kreg portable work stands protected by sheets of 1” pink rigid foam.

I used Dominos to join all the pieces. Amazingly, all the many pieces went together the first time.

I have used the Betterly guide rail connector in the past, but having the long rail is better.
 
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