A/V unit build and install

[Jonhilgen]

Just started this one.  My apologies for the pictures of the cabinet drawings, but it was the best I could do.

Trying my best to take pictures during the build which I will upload later, then of the install.

Both ends of the base cabinets will be getting the lattice panels.  One side is going to house the subwoofer, Tue other is going to house the hvac return.  Nobody ever asked the question as to how they were going to be able to change the filters...go figure.  So it looks like I'm going to have to hinge the left endpanel...

Jon

 

[Jonhilgen]

Pics.

Sheet goods ripped (i use a homemade parallel guide set made out of drywall t-squares...don't knock it.  It works great)

Once stock is ripped to proper depths, dadoes are run for the cabinet backs using my o2000. I then cross-cut the material using Qwas' guide rail attachment.  It's dead-on, and I can easily move around the material, instead of moving the material which can get heavy. 

More to follow.

 

[ericbuggeln]

Jon, looks like a great build. I use those same sawhorses with ply and foam as a cutting table. Has worked so far, but will be upgrading to UWB later this summer. Did you ever think of making that side panel a double? Like this

I know pic sucks bad lighting, but you can probably get the idea. This wound up being my favorite part of the project. Keep posting pics, Eric

 

[tiralie]

Just started this one.  My apologies for the pictures of the cabinet drawings, but it was the best I could do.

Jon:
Drawings look good. Did you do them?
Also, are they planning to get a large TV, the space seems a tad over sized (tall) for the current TV. Not a criticism just an observation.

Trying my best to take pictures during the build which I will upload later, then of the install.

Cool. Always love to see WIP photo's.
Tim

 

[Jonhilgen]

Eric, the original plans had called for a middle rail to line up with the bottom of the  doors above the tv.  But since the doors got nixed, so did the middle rail.

I usually don't use the domino for cabinet building, seems like an extra step with little added benefit.  But I finally decided to give it a shot since the cabinet end panels extend to the floor and the cabinet bottom needed to be 4 1/2 above the floor.  Using the domino and the domiplate seemed to take longer, but once I got to assembly, the time was quickly made up.

More pics.  One is a picture of my homemade parallel guides (got the idea here on the fog)

Tim, CAD drawings were done by the designer.  As far as the tv...I'm building as he wants it.  I'm sure the clients will upgrade so I guess its better to have a little to much space rift now

 

[ericbuggeln]

Jon, the King taught me a method for cabs that wont be seen from the side or will have an end panel by which you domino the top once and the bottom once and then pocket hole in between. Dominoes for alignment and pockets for clamping pressure. Very strong and I have my assistant do the whole thing while I work on other stuff, Eric

 

[rnt80]

Jon, the King taught me a method for cabs that wont be seen from the side or will have an end panel by which you domino the top once and the bottom once and then pocket hole in between. Dominoes for alignment and pockets for clamping pressure. Very strong and I have my assistant do the whole thing while I work on other stuff, Eric

That's what I've been doing for the past few years but why would you pocket screw when the sides won't be seen?  It doesn't seem necessary for that application.  Why not just simply screw in from the side of the cabinet?

 

[Jonhilgen]

I amost always use nails to align panels, then glue and screw from sides, or on the case of a finished end, pocket screw.  Used dominos this time for alignment purposes only since bottom panels were not flush with bottoms of cabinets, but raised up 4 1/2 from bottom.

Jon

 

[ericbuggeln]

Rnt80, not sure just always did it that way. I see what youre saying though. I like to do two holes one for the screw and one for the clamp to get it perfectly aligned. I do the same with FF to carcass attachment. Eric

 

[rnt80]

Eric, I do the same thing with the pocket screws when I need to use them but it seems like you're creating more work. The dominoes are already there for alignment so you shouldn't need to clamp.  Notwithstanding the fact that I've never been able to use the pocket screws without them pulling the pieces out of alignment without a clamp.  Screwing from the outside in would alleviate all of that.  The screws and dominoes method also makes it incredibly easy to break everything down for finishing.  I don't spray my boxes assembled so having the ablity to take them apart easily is a plus for me.

 

[ericbuggeln]

Rnt80, Im gonna try that out, sounds simple, Eric

 

[Jonhilgen]

More pics.  

Faceframe assemblies using spacer sticks to make sure everything is dead on.  Then pocket screwing faceframes to cabinets after pinning them in place with a brad nailer.

Once faceframes are on, backs get installed...

Built a little jig for applying shelf edging.  On stain grade job, the domino gets a workout. But since this is paint grade, glue and nails does the trick.

Working on countertop next.  Domino and pocket screws the joints.  One joint will be glued in the field since transporting a 12' long top isn't easy

 

[Jonhilgen]

Finally putting this in.  There's a gaping hole in during the build process in which I didn't  take pictures or document anything.  I had to finish the build out on July 4th and I wasnt in any mood to stop and take pictures.

Build out took two days, which should have been shorter.  But since I have been in such a time crunch I had to do a lot of things out in the field that would normally have preferred to do in the shop.

Still have tp go back to install the furniture base once the hardwoods are installed, then once more after its been painted to reinstall the doors and drawer fronts.

Jon

 

[tiralie]

Looks good Jon.
What color are they painting it?
Tim

 

[Jonhilgen]

Looks good Jon.
What color are they painting it?
Tim

Tim, I'm assuming it will be painted white to match the trim.  Theyre installing coffered celings now that the unit is installed, then paint.

Jon

 

[Jonhilgen]

Finally have time to post finished pictures.  Designer supplied LED tape light that I had to install behind the face frames.  Kind of opened a can of worms, because the led light s look great during the day, but were downright blindingly bright at night.  The electrician had a bear of a time finding a compatible dimmer switch to work with the lights.

Jon

 

[tbellemare]

Those lights do look cool in the images, Jon!

Tom

Oh, nice work as usual...

 

[Wonderwino]

Looks great, Jon!!  [big grin]

I'm a little late to comment on pocket screws vs. through the sides, but the pocket screws offer superior holding power.  This is because you are screwing from end grain to cross grain and not vice-versa.  For more strength screwing into end grain, cross dowels (or cross dominos) are recommended.  Screwing into end grain, particularly MDF or Plywood, even with pre-drilling, risks splitting the panels.  BT, DT.  [cool]

 

[jmbfestool]

looks really nice! 

made a little unit recently with LEDS  well two units actually and both look nice with LEDS but like you said at night they are way way to bright kinda annoying!!!

Looking at getting dimmable LEDS

JMB