About to go green. What should I get?

blanning

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Joined
Jan 22, 2007
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39
I'm planning to get a few festools shortly.  I'm thinking the TS55, the new large dust extractor, and a domino.  I'm also considering a sander and a router, but I'm not sure what to get.  Which sander and router are the best first tool?  Any accessories that are must-haves? 

brian
 
there are a number of threads below that deal with the same question.I suggest browsing these in addition to the replies you get here,one thing I have noticed is the Rotex and 150 series sanders,the domino jointer with the cutter and domino systainer and the 1010 and 1400 routers are ALWAYS the first tools mentioned.And it goes without saying (well almost) that you need the dust extractors as that is one of the best advantages of Festools,that is the dust free working ability.
 
Get an MFT/3 with the saw to save money and the Domino with the extractor.  I would get a Rotex 150 too.  If you do not have a router, then the 1010 or 1400 would be a good choice.  My favorite Festool is the OF2200 and it is my only Festool router.  I would get some clamps to go with the rails and MFT/3 if you go that route.

Scot
 
150/5 for finish sanding/surface prep.  Get the 150/3 at a later date if your wallet allows.

RO150 if you want to polish (finishes) or strip old finish more than surface prep.  You might want to wait for the granat abrasives.  Rubin is so-so, brilliant2 abrasives are good.  Cristal is good too but only available in coarser grits.  If you do large carvings and want to smooth those out, the RO is the better weapon than a 150.

some longer guide rails to go with the TS55.  I think some Festool vendors may be willing to credit you the cost of the 1400 rail and let you get the longer 1900 rail instead.  If so, do it.  And get the 3000 rail.  If you work solid stock you might want to get a rip blade too.  Don't worry about clamps for the rails.  I've never had to clamp the rails, even on melamine.  You can easily get shorter rails later if you find these rails too long for efficient work.

router?  Depends on your work.  I have the 1010 and 1400.  Both are nice routers but I'm in the camp that thinks the difference between the 1400 and Dewalt 621 doesn't justify the price of the 1400.  But that's my opinion.

Get the systainer with domino assortment if you do on-site work.  Nice to have them at the ready and easily accessible.  If you work primarily in the shop, the extra cost of the systainer may not be worth it.

The boom arm is nice for shop use but there are shop made options too.
 
Hi
If you are looking at the ts 55 look at the mafell mt55cc it will run on a festool track
Yes yes yes to the domino and the assortment
A router is a motor on a stick so get a big one and a small one any quality brand will get the job done
sander you can not go wrong with the ets150 3 as a good allrounder
and a long rail is the way to go if you are in the shop

enjoy
 
Hi Brian,

I agree with what Scotf.  I wish I would have bought more then one combo package.  My first purchase was the TS 55 and Ct Midi package and I got the MFT/3 seperatly. 

If you're thinking about buying more then one tool, JUST DO IT! Because once you make that first cut there is no turning back.
April 2010 was my first purchase,  the only items that I don't have from the Festool line up is a drill and a sander.  Thats only because my makita drill is only a couple years old and porter cable sander hooks up to my Ct Midi.

As for accessories, OF 1400 edge guide and table widener.  Guide rail connectors, upgrade ts 55 package if you can,for a longer guide rail, but make sure you have plenty of guide rail to rip sheet goods.  I like to connect two guide rails to rip down sheet goods because it's easy for me to store the two guide rails rather then one long rail.  Clamps clamps and more clamps. 

One last thing before I go.  The price of the vac. bags add up,  so check out the ONEIDA Dust Deputy as an accessory for your vac.  This pays for it's self after a couple boxes of vac. bags.

Good luck! 

Eric
 
Wow, it's taken you this long to decide to go green. [jawdrop]  Well, congrats on the first post.  Since you're been a member since the beginning I'm sure you know about the package deals to save a few bucks.  Sanders, that's hard to say.  The RO150 is a all around tool but it's the most expensive.  I think the ETS 150 sanders are first rate tools and well worth the money, I can't imagine anyone not being happy with one.  And for routers, if you're invested in 1/2" shank bits the OF1400 is the way to go.  I have no problem with using 1/4" shank bits so I find the OF1010 is the router I reach for first.

Good luck.
 
blanning said:
I'm planning to get a few festools shortly.  I'm thinking the TS55, the new large dust extractor, and a domino.  I'm also considering a sander and a router, but I'm not sure what to get.  Which sander and router are the best first tool?  Any accessories that are must-haves? 

brian

Brian
It really depends on what you want/going to do.
Can you tell us a little more about the application? What tools do you have now that you want to replace?
I think you can't go wrong with an MFT/3 and a dust collection system and then add to that as you require.
If you are planning on sanding a lot then the sanders and dust extractor are the way to go. There are many choices so, it really depends on the application. If you are breaking down sheet goods then yes a 55 is the choice. If you are making chairs have a good band saw then I think the domino is a good choice.
If you need to produce accurate miter cuts then the Kapex is a good choice.
Tim
 
Today.

Tom

EDIT: Let me qualify that... I'm shipping 150mm dia, 125mm dia, 80mm x 133mm, and 100mm x 150mm delta now.
 
Buy combos when you can to save some money; TS55 w/MFT3, Domino W/Dust Extractor or Sander w/Dust Extractor.  I have 2 CTs bought in combo and they are really handy to have, especially if your wife likes to sand. 

Other than that, one of each tool in the catalog would be a good start!  [eek]  [scared]  [big grin]
 
There is a reconditioned tool sale underway at the moment for 10% or 20% off. You may went to look at some of the offers available.
 
Blanning, all power Festools are designed to be used with a companion dust extractor. Not only does the CT keep dust out of your shop and lungs, that airflow is part of the machine cooling.

The Domino simply will not work correctly without the constant removal of dust and chips as the mortise is being cut.

So you already have selected the Big Three. I own several TS55 and only one TS75, largely because I also have big table saws and a radial arm saw as well as the sliding miter saws. Although I have both a pressure beam saw and a big sliding table saw, often I find it faster to make angle cuts on sheet goods using guide rails and a TS55. Consequently I also own many guide rails ranging from 1080mm up to 5000mm.

My experience is that unless a person breaks down more than a few sheets of goods daily and can transport an expensive guide rail 8' or longer, it works just as well to couple 2 55" or longer rails for the rip cuts. Two 55" together is enough to make an 8' cut with a TS55, but not long enough to do that with a TS75. My suggestion is to have 3 55" (1400mm) rails so one can be used for cross-grain cuts without de-coupling the long rail. The extra 55" rail is an ideal straight-edge to make sure the coupled rails are aligned correctly.

Now later those same rails can be used to guide Festool routers in straight lines.

Clearly my experience differs from some. I always clamp my guide rails, because just a slight amount of dirt on sheet goods can cause the rail to slip. Also not all sheet goods are actually flat. That can cause slippage. Perhaps being exact is not an issue when framing and laying decking, but how often are Festool plunge saws used in that way? My business is based on the use of expensive sheet goods. Daily we break down sheets that at our wholesale price cost nearly as much as a TS55 at retail. Everyone working with me knows how to use the Festool clamps rapidly. None of us want to miss-cut a piece. All of our work tables (many 4x10') are drilled with 20mm round holes on 96mm centers, the same as the MFT. Those holes are to facilitate use of the Festool clamps. I totally encourage use of the Festool clamps.

Clamping elements are also an important aspect to safe routing and sanding. Also, the Domino works best when the wood being mortised is clamped in place.

blanning said:
I'm planning to get a few festools shortly.  I'm thinking the TS55, the new large dust extractor, and a domino.  I'm also considering a sander and a router, but I'm not sure what to get.  Which sander and router are the best first tool?  Any accessories that are must-haves? 

brian
 
Brice Burrell said:
Wow, it's taken you this long to decide to go green. [jawdrop]  Well, congrats on the first post.  Since you're been a member since the beginning I'm sure you know about the package deals to save a few bucks.  Sanders, that's hard to say.  The RO150 is a all around tool but it's the most expensive.  I think the ETS 150 sanders are first rate tools and well worth the money, I can't imagine anyone not being happy with one.  And for routers, if you're invested in 1/2" shank bits the OF1400 is the way to go.  I have no problem with using 1/4" shank bits so I find the OF1010 is the router I reach for first.

Good luck.

Thanks to everyone who replied. 

I didn't realize there was a TS55+MFT/3 combo.  Initially, I wasn't impressed with the MFT/3.  It looks like a good idea, but like a lot of other festool products, seemed way overpriced.  It's kind of growing on me though.  I have a complete shop full of tools (none of it festool), but I'm down-sizing at the moment to get better mobility and to get my garage back.  I had planned to get a contractor's saw (really a hybrid on legs) to replace the unisaw in order to get 110.  But I realized that the price of that saw plus a beismeyer fence was awfully close to a bosch 4100 plus an MFT/3.  I was also put off by the sacrificial table.  But it's just MDF, so I guess I could make one if I was feeling really thrifty.  And the replacements don't look like they're that expensive.
 
  But it's just MDF, so I guess I could make one if I was feeling really thrifty.  And the replacements don't look like they're that expensive.
[/quote]

You can always flip and rotate the MFT top before you replace OR use wood filer and file your cuts.  Saves you the money of replacing it.
 
blanning said:
I was also put off by the sacrificial table.  But it's just MDF, so I guess I could make one if I was feeling really thrifty.  And the replacements don't look like they're that expensive.

Don't forget that the top can also be rotated as well as flipped.  I do 95% of my cuts in relatively the same place, so when that gets worn down I'll just rotate the top 180 degrees.  When the same happens again, I'll flip the whole top and start the process anew.  
 
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