Charles Wilson
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- Joined
- Mar 14, 2007
- Messages
- 145
In terms of accuracy, how accurate is the saw? (i.e. - 1/64", 1/32")
How easy is it to get it accurate?
Chuck
How easy is it to get it accurate?
Chuck
Accuracy - How accurate and how difficult?
- Thread starter Charles Wilson
- Start date
Jesse Cloud
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- Joined
- Jan 23, 2007
- Messages
- 1,746
Hi Charles,
There have been several threads on this topic. The good news is that the saw can easily and reliably deliver accuracy to 1/64 if that's your standard. If you are using the guide rail without the table, then the limiting factor is your ability to mark accurately and your patience with lining the guide rail up to the mark. If you are using the table, the key factor is taking the time when you first set up the table to calibrate the fence and the guide rail holders to be dead square. If you are making several pieces, clamp a stop to the table to ensure repeatability.
There have been several threads on this topic. The good news is that the saw can easily and reliably deliver accuracy to 1/64 if that's your standard. If you are using the guide rail without the table, then the limiting factor is your ability to mark accurately and your patience with lining the guide rail up to the mark. If you are using the table, the key factor is taking the time when you first set up the table to calibrate the fence and the guide rail holders to be dead square. If you are making several pieces, clamp a stop to the table to ensure repeatability.
Charles, It's all about precision! I will trust a freshly cut splinter-guard on the FS rails as much as I would trust my finely tuned Unisaw. Festool is all about precision and ease of use. It is just like everything else though; it's all about the set up for the cut. If you want precision, you have to take time to ensure the human factor is covered. The mechanics with Festool are first rate!
Timmy C
Timmy C
Chuck Kiser
Member
- Joined
- Jul 29, 2007
- Messages
- 150
Charles,
I second what was already said. Setup is the key. I routinely cut to 1/32 with guide rail and clamps with no problems. Save the occasional error on MY part. Old eyes and all that stuff.
I second what was already said. Setup is the key. I routinely cut to 1/32 with guide rail and clamps with no problems. Save the occasional error on MY part. Old eyes and all that stuff.
Hi, Charles
If you measure and mark accurately, paying attention to use the same technique when marking and aligning. Then it is a very accurate saw. I would say that 1/64" repeatability is no problem. You can make it easier and more repeatable even with out the MFT by using a jig (one was just shown in another thread). Or some type of system for setting the rail. Your goal for getting the most accuracy is to elimenate human error. The saw itself is very accurate.
I like to reduce the human error by using some of the Incra and Woodpeckers measuring/marking tools combined with John Lucas's razor blade alignment idea. The Woodpeckers T Squares have pencil point size holes every 1/16" , and the Incra rules are similar. If you put the pencil in the correct hole it is very hard to be off the mark. Then tap in a razor blade on the mark. Push the guide rail up against the razor blade, and bingo the rail is right were it belongs. It is really easy when using the thin edge of a razor blade to place the rail in the center of the mark or on the left / right edge of the mark. This may sound like a bit of a process but it is actually very fast, and saves time.
Seth
If you measure and mark accurately, paying attention to use the same technique when marking and aligning. Then it is a very accurate saw. I would say that 1/64" repeatability is no problem. You can make it easier and more repeatable even with out the MFT by using a jig (one was just shown in another thread). Or some type of system for setting the rail. Your goal for getting the most accuracy is to elimenate human error. The saw itself is very accurate.
I like to reduce the human error by using some of the Incra and Woodpeckers measuring/marking tools combined with John Lucas's razor blade alignment idea. The Woodpeckers T Squares have pencil point size holes every 1/16" , and the Incra rules are similar. If you put the pencil in the correct hole it is very hard to be off the mark. Then tap in a razor blade on the mark. Push the guide rail up against the razor blade, and bingo the rail is right were it belongs. It is really easy when using the thin edge of a razor blade to place the rail in the center of the mark or on the left / right edge of the mark. This may sound like a bit of a process but it is actually very fast, and saves time.
Seth
