Michael Kellough said:
JeffeVerde said:
Has anyone tried adding the green glide strips to an old-style rail? I've got an old-style 10' rail that's still straight and works fine. I hate to grind the nice base of my TS75 across the old guide...Wondering if I couldn't solve the problem by adding the glide strips to it.
You probably already realize that adding the green strips will raise the saw so it will cut into the rubber when beveling, so, the suggested lube is best.
I hadn't thought about that. But that raises an interesting question. Maintaining a zero cut-line at any bevel requires the saws sole plate to be at a specific height above the cut surface (and the rubber edge strip). Raise the sole plate and the cut-line in relation to top plane of the material being cut moves towards the rail -- lower it, and it moves away from the rail.
Eyeballing the profile of the old and new rails, the extrusion of the old rail doesn't
look thicker then the new. That makes me wonder if the opposite of the point you raised isn't the case, and the TS on an old rail (without the green glide strips) isn't actually sitting
lower than on a new rail (with strips) - thus moving the cut line slightly
away from the rubber strip.
I'll have to mic the old and new rails and see if there's a difference in thickness.