advice for cutting kitchen trim panels with plunge saw

[Jonnyspin]

I have just bought a Festools plunge saw in order to cut "pacrylic" end panels and laminate work tops for my new Wren kitchen.
Can anyone offer me any advice on how to get damage-free cuts (while I wait to see if anyone has a spare Festools voucher)

thanks!

 

[Distinctive Interiors]

Hi Jonny,

No quite sure what you mean by "Pacrylic" end panels!  [unsure] I have heard of Hi-Gloss Acrylic end panels, perhaps this is what you mean?

Perhaps you can enlighten us!

Festool do a number of different blades for their TS saws. If your saw is a TS55 and new, it should have come with the 491952 blade that has 48 teeth. This should do the job and cut clean enough, but if you find you need a better quality of cut, try the 496308 as it has a different tooth configuration to the 491952 blade. I use the 496308 for hi gloss finish and it works perfectly well.

Regards, Tim (Distinctive Interiors)

 

[Jonnyspin]

thanks!

"pacrylic" appears to be chipboard core with a glossy coloured coating, then a clear acrylic layer of around 1-2 mm on top...

 

[Distinctive Interiors]

Where did you get the name of "pacrylic" from?

Is it printed on the packaging or something?

I have never heard of it, especially within a fitted kitchen component context!

I have just Googled it, and nothing comes up..........????!!!!

Tim.

 

[GarryMartin]

Think it is something to do with Wren Kitchens.

http://www.wrenkitchens.com/kitchens/gloss/pacrylic-graphite-gloss

 

[GarryMartin]

I have just Googled it, and nothing comes up..........????!!!!

You have to be careful with Google - sometimes it tries to be helpful and in the case of searching for "pacrylic" it automatically assumes you meant acrylic unless you click on the "Search instead for pacrylic" link.

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[Distinctive Interiors]

Yes, I just did the same serarch.

Pacrylic is something that seems to be specific to Wren kitchens. I think everone else who works in my line of business would just call it high gloss acrylic.

Even so, the advice I gave earlier still stands Jonny.

Hope this helps!

Tim.

 

[Caly]

Good quality acrylic i.e. bonded well to substrate will always cut better than a lesser product.
You could try pre scoring :- drop blade to pierce material by 2mm, start from opposite end and draw  saw backwards hence pre scoring material,  then drop blade to correct depth and cut as per normal. This is not kind to blade, but it is not detrimental.
Always keep pressed down tight on saw and hence track.

Triple chip blades are a must.

I am just experimenting with having my blades re sharpened at 15 degrees and getting exceptional results.

 

[Jonnyspin]

Thanks for the advice. I now have the saw, and the specific blade... So will be trying the first cut today!

One more Q. I also have the guide rails, but when I lower the blade down with the power off, it looks like it will cut the clear plastic lip.... Is this right?  If so, what do I line up my live with? The aluminium edge?

 

[GarryMartin]

Yes, your first cut will shave some of the plastic off, so you need to do that on a scrap piece. You then use the plastic edge as your line, knowing it to be completely accurate with regard to the saw blade.

Rick Christopherson's reference for the TS 55 REQ is a must read.

http://www.festoolusa.com/media/pdf/Festool-TS55REQ-Supplemental-Manual.pdf

Page 8 covers trimming the splinter guard.

 

[Distinctive Interiors]

As Garry rightly said, trim the splinter guard first! Once this is done, do a trial cut on a scrap section of your panel just so you can tune the speed of the saw to cut at its cleanest.

Cutting Hi gloss acrylic panels can be tricky as the coating is rather brittle. Some cut better face up others seem to cut better face down.

Just be certain you have your procedure right before committing to your final cut.

Tim (Distinctive Interiors)

 

[Jonnyspin]

First cut = success....

Thanks!

This has got to be the quietest power tool I have used too.