Advice needed for fastening 1/4" ply to underside of loft bed

NYC Tiny Shop

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I need to fasten 1/4" ply (64"x 32") onto the underside of a double loft bed. The ply has to go up after the frame is mounted with carriage bolts. The bolts are tightened from inside the frame.  (The ply will have a natural finish and she doesn't want to see screws!) I was thinking of using my Grex P635 23 gauge pin nailer with some titebond, but now I'm thinking that because I'm a one-man operation on this, many problems could result.  (Thankfully, I have a pair of Fastcap Third Hands.)  
 One issue is from still rehabbing a torn shoulder...another dealing with dripping glue, etc.
 I was thinking that I could have used my 18 gauge nailer with Paslode 2" small headed brads and no glue (after assembly, there will be 2x4s on the inside corners also holding up the ply piece...2x6s on the outside)...but, my crappo HF nailer leaves huge marks and doesn't always send the nail fully in...so, it's worthless for this task.  I'm willing to go buy another nailer for this job, because I have more work coming up where I probably have to do this again.  Any ideas are appreciated.
P.S.  Below is a pic of the underside of one of the loft bed frames.
 

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I'd use silicone and a few brads. No drip issues. Good flexibility. It will stink awhile, but hold up well.

Kevin
 
As long as both pieces of wood have a finish on them - and you don't want to be able to remove the panel - I'd use 3M VHB adhesive tape. It's used (among other things) to hold metal panels together on trailers and buses. It's stronger in that application than rivets are, so it's certainly strong enough for what you want to do. No fasteners needed, and should be easy for one person to do as you only have to line up the panel then hold it for a few seconds.
 
batcave said:
I'd use silicone and a few brads. No drip issues. Good flexibility. It will stink awhile, but hold up well.

Kevin

Thanks, Kev...I forgot to mention...she only wants all-natural toxin-free products! Even the ply is toxin-free. I'm using milk paint, tung oil and citrus solvent.
 
wow said:
As long as both pieces of wood have a finish on them - and you don't want to be able to remove the panel - I'd use 3M VHB adhesive tape. It's used (among other things) to hold metal panels together on trailers and buses. It's stronger in that application than rivets are, so it's certainly strong enough for what you want to do. No fasteners needed, and should be easy for one person to do as you only have to line up the panel then hold it for a few seconds.

Thanks, WOW. What a cool product! I will look into this. Never saw it before.
 
NYC Tiny Shop said:
batcave said:
I'd use silicone and a few brads. No drip issues. Good flexibility. It will stink awhile, but hold up well.

Kevin

Thanks, Kev...I forgot to mention...she only wants all-natural toxin-free products! Even the ply is toxin-free. I'm using milk paint, tung oil and citrus solvent.

Geesh! That was the last thing on my mind! Better not fart on the job then. [wink]

Kevin
 
batcave said:
NYC Tiny Shop said:
batcave said:
I'd use silicone and a few brads. No drip issues. Good flexibility. It will stink awhile, but hold up well.

Kevin

Thanks, Kev...I forgot to mention...she only wants all-natural toxin-free products! Even the ply is toxin-free. I'm using milk paint, tung oil and citrus solvent.

Geesh! That was the last thing on my mind! Better not fart on the job then. [wink]

Kevin

That is funny! Yes, but mine are toxin-free. I can't say that of some guys I know from Jersey! [wink]

I think that I'll see if the pin nailer holds these panels up long enough to get the inner supports installed. Will let you know. Thanks!
 
Another vote for VHB. Once you have a roll handy you'll find many uses for it. I have VHB and regular mounting tape on the shelf.

Tom
 
I might be overly cautious here, but I'm not sure I'd consider Tung Oil all that friendly, especially on a large area where someone's going to be spending a lot of time.  There have been cases of nasty allergic reactions in people with nut allergies.

Andrew
 
Roseland said:
I might be overly cautious here, but I'm not sure I'd consider Tung Oil all that friendly, especially on a large area where someone's going to be spending a lot of time.  There have been cases of nasty allergic reactions in people with nut allergies.

Andrew

Yes,
The Tung is a nut tree. I've heard this before. She requested pure Tung Oil, but I will ask her if either of her children have nut allergies. Thanks.
 
If you have to tighten the frame carriage bolts initially, there's a possibility that you'll have to retighten them at some point.  What about if the customer moves?  That will require a tear-down and reassembly.  I would avoid any "permanent" solution, like the 3M tape or glue if it obstructs access to the bolts.  I might look at using thicker bottom panels, like 1/2" so I could use pocket screws and wooden plugs to cover the screw holes.  In this case, I would not glue in the plugs on the assumption that they'll have to be removed at some point to tighten things or disassemble them.  Perhaps a dab of silicone on the very end of the plug to "just" hold them in place. 

 
If you find a way to attach at a couple of  points in the field you could hold the edge with a piece of small trim. Quarter Rnd, Shoe or just square/rectangular. That would be removable too.

Maybe two screws with FastCap  flat stick on caps?  Although they are probably not toxin free.  Pairs of holes through from the topside with twine looped through and tied?

Seth
 
First, thank you all for trying to help this old guy get it together. Emailed the client and the kids don't have any nut allergies. Seth, I'll use your first idea and get more surface coverage with one third hand.  I am going to first micro pin the 1/4" ply and hope that it holds long enough to quickly get the corner braces into each of the V legs. I'll try a few 23 gauge pins and the 3M tape. It seems that everyone in the hardware store knew about it, except for me! This will be interesting. The floor has a twist, so all eight legs will be a different height.  Tomorrow, I'm wheeling, up Broadway, my Kapex to the site as soon as the UG cart arrives by UPS. Got my 20 carriage bolts and my 6" spade bit ready to go. Today, I used Snow White GF milk paint on the ladder. Very nice.  It will be an interesting challenge getting this assembled alone.  I used to be strong, about twenty years ago.  You're all welcome to come help.  [wink]
 
[size=11pt]

Surely the site of a Kapex being wheeled up Broadway would be a golden publicity opportunity for Festool USA?  [smile]

Be strong!
 
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