Advice on door frame assembly with kapex or Domino

[SMJoinery]

Hi
Next big green purchase will be Kapex or Domino and I need help deciding.
In a standard doorframe construction we half check (rebate) the leg into the head by at least 10mm.
We make this rebate on the bench saw with a sliding carriage and the blade set at 10mm with repeated cuts.
My main query then is this...is the kapex more capable for this type of joint by limiting the cut depth?..(not possible on current mitre saw)?.... Or is the domino strong enough to make this connection without the rebate but with say a 2 domino joint?
Obviously the domino is capable of other superb shortcuts in the workshop but I don't want it sitting around, if it's capable of the door frame work then it would be used almost daily just for that.
I don't need any encouragement to buy the kapex but would likely hold off until current saw is needing upgraded and continue with the bench saw set up.
Be interesting to hear other instances where dominoes have been used in joinery but can see huge benefits for cabinet work.
Any help and advice gratefully appreciated.
Best regards.
Scott

 

[tjbnwi]

Domino's are plenty strong enough for door frames. You'll see the mortises in the second photo.
https://picasaweb.google.com/tbadernwi/CSAP#

Tom

 

[SMJoinery]

Domino's are plenty strong enough for door frames. You'll see the mortises in the second photo.
https://picasaweb.google.com/tbadernwi/CSAP#

Tom

Hi Tom

Thanks for the reply, I have enjoyed the thread for the vanity unit and doors you refer to.
My query was referring to the actual frame that a full size solid core door would be hung into.
I have reviewed lots of posts here where the domino takes the place of a mortise and tenon but was querying if it's equally well placed for other joinery specific tasks like door jambs / frame construction. Maybe also locations such as where a window cill abuts the frame and other non cabinetry uses that FOG members have pioneered.

 

[nclemmons]

To your question on the Kapex and a limited depth cut, yes it does support this but I don't think it is that accurate for the door frame joinery you outline.  The Kapex does allow you to pull a lever and trench cut a dado or rabbet, but it is not perfect in alignment from cut to cut, and you need to set the piece you are trenching in from the back fence given the curvature of the blade to cut all the way across the piece you are rabbeting or dadoing.

If you were doing production work, I'd suggest a router with a straight cutting bit for this type of work.

The Domino can do what you want to do and more.  If you have a working miter saw, I'd suggest the Domino as a game changing joinery tool.

neil

 

[ldmillar1981]

I use my kapex for trenching door linings, like with all trenching on a mitre saw it's not the most comfortable of tasks, also you need a spacer as when in trench mode the kapex does not go to the set depth at the fence (as will all SCMS) I use a 2x1 clamped down. I have often wondered of an alternative to this. Don't know if I would be comfortable with a domino joint it would be a horrible snag to come back on?

Regards
Leigh

 

[wrightwoodwork]

The domino is more than strong enough for the joint in fact the joint doesn't need to have huge strength it one has to hold its own weight which it definitely will. If you are still worried about the joint pulling apart you can still use a couple of screws. Also the joint is supported on all sides where the housing joint o has support from the shoulder. Here's a vid of domino being used to lift a beam I personally don't do but I know someone who does and it works just fine as long as you cut the head the head the right size allowing for you door clearance

 

[SMJoinery]

I use my kapex for trenching door linings, like with all trenching on a mitre saw it's not the most comfortable of tasks, also you need a spacer as when in trench mode the kapex does not go to the set depth at the fence (as will all SCMS) I use a 2x1 clamped down. I have often wondered of an alternative to this. Don't know if I would be comfortable with a domino joint it would be a horrible snag to come back on?

Regards
Leigh

That's what would concern me but it would be stronger "horizontally" but could be compromised vertically unless pocket screwed.
Yes the trenching on a mitre saw with the back spacer is a bit untidy until all junctions are covered with architraves etc.
I do like the idea of the domino joint. I could see the frame being dry fitted in the shop and then assembled on site by knocking glued domino together and then a couple of pocket screws in the back of the leg. I'd imagine that would be fairly strong.
At the very least it would eradicate remembering to add the door height, top and bottom clearance and the often missed allowance for rebate.

 

[tjbnwi]

Domino's are plenty strong enough for door frames. You'll see the mortises in the second photo.
https://picasaweb.google.com/tbadernwi/CSAP#

Tom

Hi Tom

Thanks for the reply, I have enjoyed the thread for the vanity unit and doors you refer to.
My query was referring to the actual frame that a full size solid core door would be hung into.
I have reviewed lots of posts here where the domino takes the place of a mortise and tenon but was querying if it's equally well placed for other joinery specific tasks like door jambs / frame construction. Maybe also locations such as where a window cill abuts the frame and other non cabinetry uses that FOG members have pioneered.

I'd have no problem using the Domino for the jambs.

Tom

 

[Daver]

If you were doing production work, I'd suggest a router with a straight cutting bit for this type of work.

neil

Hello Scott,

To further Neil's suggestion, it occurs to me that with a Router Small Bore Base (492754) you would negate any concerns about edge routing.
If you were doing a number of frames at once, you could use that base in conjunction with a rail and the Guide Stop (492601) and you would be off to the races. Line them up side by side and plow away. Of course in the case of piecework, you could always establish a start line with a track saw (or any circular saw at hand) and free-hand from there.

To your comments about the pocket screws, the domino certainly seems very strong in terms of pullout but if you're concerned about shear, it's hard to beat the shoulder your half check creates.

Hope this adds to the discussion.

Best Regards,
Dave

 

[wrightwoodwork]

If you were doing production work, I'd suggest a router with a straight cutting bit for this type of work.

neil

Hello Scott,

To further Neil's suggestion, it occurs to me that with a Router Small Bore Base (492754) you would negate any concerns about edge routing.
If you were doing a number of frames at once, you could use that base in conjunction with a rail and the Guide Stop (492601) and you would be off to the races. Line them up side by side and plow away. Of course in the case of piecework, you could always establish a start line with a track saw (or any circular saw at hand) and free-hand from there.

To your comments about the pocket screws, the domino certainly seems very strong in terms of pullout but if you're concerned about shear, it's hard to beat the shoulder your half check creates.

Hope this adds to the discussion.

Best Regards,
Daved

Don't know if you have an mft table but using an mft table with your ts55 or Evan better using a router would be a good way to get quick repetitive houses in the heads

 

[joiner1970]

If you were doing production work, I'd suggest a router with a straight cutting bit for this type of work.

neil

Hello Scott,

To further Neil's suggestion, it occurs to me that with a Router Small Bore Base (492754) you would negate any concerns about edge routing.
If you were doing a number of frames at once, you could use that base in conjunction with a rail and the Guide Stop (492601) and you would be off to the races. Line them up side by side and plow away. Of course in the case of piecework, you could always establish a start line with a track saw (or any circular saw at hand) and free-hand from there.

To your comments about the pocket screws, the domino certainly seems very strong in terms of pullout but if you're concerned about shear, it's hard to beat the shoulder your half check creates.

Hope this adds to the discussion.

Best Regards,
Daved

Don't know if you have an mft table but using an mft table with your ts55 or Evan better using a router would be a good way to get quick repetitive houses in the heads

+1 for the ts55 ,you will get more accurate housings with a saw or router on a rail . The kapex is ok but the depth adjust isn't perfect. Just like my old Makita if you put slightly more pressure on it ,it will cut deeper.