I am a carpenter of 38 years and want to buy a TS 55 or TS 75 and want to use it for many things but primarily to rip 3/4 " cabinet grade ply in my shop instead of hefting it on the table saw as I have been doing with a helper. I want to know if this is the right tool for that and which model I should buy. Also I am confused about the use of the clamps with the rails. I have read other reviews not on this forum and I and hesitant to drop $900 on this tool with the needed 106" rail and clamps unless I am sure it will do what I want. I think I can use it for many other on site carpentry jobs but it won't pay for itself very fast. Thank you for your input.
Advice on purchase of plunge saws
- Thread starter waltwood
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Bob Marino
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Ok, the TS 55 would be the way to go if you are cutting ply. It has a finer tooth blade and is smaller and lighter than the TS 75. The rails all have rubber strips on the bottom, which greatly aid in preventing rail slippage. Also, unlike using a standard circular saw against a straight edge to make your cut, your pressure with the Festool saws are downward, not lateral. For most cuts, the clamps (which fit under the rail in the provided slot) are not needed. However, I do find the clamps helpful with bevel cutting and making a long ripcut easier to set up and finish.
Bob
Bob
nclemmons
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Welcome to the FOG.
I'd suggest the TS55 if you are mostly cutting sheet goods of 3/4" thickness. I have one and it works great for this.
I do not own a TS75. The TS75 is certainly capable, but it is larger, heavier, more money, and probably overkill for 3/4 sheet goods. I think it would be a great choice for thicker hardwoods or if you wanted to regularly gang cut sheet goods.
You can go with a long rail, or alternatively pick up an extra shorter rail and join the two rails together for longer cuts. I find this works well.
The clamps are very handy for clamping the guide rails from under the sheet goods. I like the ratcheting clamps personally, but both styles work well.
Good luck with your decision and ask questions as I'm sure you'll find a helpful group here.
neil
I'd suggest the TS55 if you are mostly cutting sheet goods of 3/4" thickness. I have one and it works great for this.
I do not own a TS75. The TS75 is certainly capable, but it is larger, heavier, more money, and probably overkill for 3/4 sheet goods. I think it would be a great choice for thicker hardwoods or if you wanted to regularly gang cut sheet goods.
You can go with a long rail, or alternatively pick up an extra shorter rail and join the two rails together for longer cuts. I find this works well.
The clamps are very handy for clamping the guide rails from under the sheet goods. I like the ratcheting clamps personally, but both styles work well.
Good luck with your decision and ask questions as I'm sure you'll find a helpful group here.
neil
tjbnwi
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Seeing as this is for shop use. Get the TS55, add the long rail and a couple of clamps.
You should make a torsion box or egg crate cutting table. Use a sacrificial cutting surface. If you go with the torsion box get the 11" long clamps. My torsion box splits in half and travels well.
I have trimmed 1-3/4" solid doors with the 28 tooth blade. There is also the Panther blade for ripping.
Tom
You should make a torsion box or egg crate cutting table. Use a sacrificial cutting surface. If you go with the torsion box get the 11" long clamps. My torsion box splits in half and travels well.
I have trimmed 1-3/4" solid doors with the 28 tooth blade. There is also the Panther blade for ripping.
Tom
jmbfestool
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If they are thick oak Doors the TS55 will cut them but your ideally better of with TS75. I own both saws I use the TS55 about 80-90% of the time the remaining % I use the TS75 might be small % but when I do use it it really comes in handy.
The TS55 is a nicer saw to use than the 75 because its smaller and lighter.
Jmb
The TS55 is a nicer saw to use than the 75 because its smaller and lighter.
Jmb
Timtool
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I know a guy that has the makita and the ts75, his men only use the 75 when they need the extra depth because it's quite heavy and cumbersome.
So my vote goes for the TS55, it can handle hard woods with the proper sharp blade, it comes standard with a 48T blade i think, that is for panels and such, for solid wood you really need a 24T blade with it. try to negotiate something on that if you go to a brick n mortar store.
A little advice for the rails, should you later consider investing in the LR32 hole row boring system then i would really advise you to spend a little extra now on LR32 rails for the saw.
Think twice about it because it could save you hundreds of dollars later.
I first bought the LR system before i bought a TS55, so i already had the rails, which saved me quite a bit of money when i got the TS.
So my vote goes for the TS55, it can handle hard woods with the proper sharp blade, it comes standard with a 48T blade i think, that is for panels and such, for solid wood you really need a 24T blade with it. try to negotiate something on that if you go to a brick n mortar store.
A little advice for the rails, should you later consider investing in the LR32 hole row boring system then i would really advise you to spend a little extra now on LR32 rails for the saw.
Think twice about it because it could save you hundreds of dollars later.
I first bought the LR system before i bought a TS55, so i already had the rails, which saved me quite a bit of money when i got the TS.
If your needs are served with a saw that cuts just under 2" deep on the rail then go with the TS55 else you might consider either getting both or the 75 to start with (and add a 55 when you get fed up of it's heft =)
On the guide rails I would say that if you are planning on using a TS saw regularly for cutting down sheet goods and you do it professionally, get a long enough rail so you don't need to fiddle with the extensions and double check the straightness every few minutes (not that mine have ever deviated from straight when connected, but still I do check them all the time). As a hobbyist I can spend the extra time on set-up and dismantle on the few occasions when I need longer than 1400 mm rails but if I was doing sheet goods day in day out and had the storage space for a long rail I'd definitely have a long enough rail to handle sheet goods in one go.
Also note that the rail has to be long enough to overlap the sheet by at least the length of the saw at both ends to guarantee a straight cut end-to-end. If one of the saw's two rail compression point slips off the end of the rail before the blade has exited the work piece you could nick the end at an angle and the same holds true if the saw isn't properly on the guide rail before entering the work piece.
On the guide rails I would say that if you are planning on using a TS saw regularly for cutting down sheet goods and you do it professionally, get a long enough rail so you don't need to fiddle with the extensions and double check the straightness every few minutes (not that mine have ever deviated from straight when connected, but still I do check them all the time). As a hobbyist I can spend the extra time on set-up and dismantle on the few occasions when I need longer than 1400 mm rails but if I was doing sheet goods day in day out and had the storage space for a long rail I'd definitely have a long enough rail to handle sheet goods in one go.
Also note that the rail has to be long enough to overlap the sheet by at least the length of the saw at both ends to guarantee a straight cut end-to-end. If one of the saw's two rail compression point slips off the end of the rail before the blade has exited the work piece you could nick the end at an angle and the same holds true if the saw isn't properly on the guide rail before entering the work piece.
Distinctive Interiors
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jmbfestool said:
I too, am fortunate enough to have both the 55 and 75. I totally agree with JMB that the TS55 is used far more than the TS75, but on the thicker timbers and material the 75 really comes into its own.
Also, with regard to the rails, I am looking into getting an additional 1400 rail so will probably get the FS1400 LR32. I could do with a 1900 rail as well, but it appears Festool only do the 1400 and 2400 in the LR32 system, as I found out yesterday.
I mainly use my saws for fabricating Kitchen Solid Surface tops that are 45mm thick, so when cutting at an angle i have to use the 75 due to its additional depth of cut.
Tim.
Bob Marino
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waltwood said:
Ah, that makes a difference. And all the above good advice is worth taking. I think much would depend on how thick those exit doors are and how often you need to trim them. If rarely (though I don't suspect is your situation) then the TS 55 can be used - Universal or Panther blades, multiple cuts and even flipping the door can get you there.
But here is another option to consider - get the TS 55 new and look on EBay or the FOG for a used TS 75. This way, you would not have to swap out blades and use the tools best suited to the task on hand.
Regarding the rails, since you are a pro and time is $$, get the 2400 (106") or even the 3000 (118") rail, rather another shorter rail requiring you to use the connectors.
Bob
waltwood said:
Bob Marino's advice is spot on. I have used my ts55 to cut all sorts of doors and never had any problems. I have used it to rip and cross cut 2" oak - perfect.
I made some tables recently and used the saw to rip the oak, including the legs, and did not need to plane it, just sanded it with my Rotex 90.
Peter
Deansocial
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What voltage peter?
Deansocial said:
I have been on 230 volts since before discovering Festool - no more fun and games tripping over plumbers and electricians on site!
Peter
Deansocial
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Only reason i ask is because many have said before about the lack of power in the 110v ts55. I have ised one and thought the same yet the 240v was fine.
I wonder whether the power rating is different in the spec. If not, then maybe Festool have something to say about it. I would not part with my 230-240v machine - it is brilliant. I am convinced that my overall quality of work has improved since getting my Festool kit and the TS has a lot to do with that.
Peter
Peter
Deansocial
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There is no excuse for lack of power either. I have a 110v circular saw that has a very large amount of power
I tend to buy the biggest of tools and that can be bad because of weight and general usability. I am going to take the advice of most of you and get the TS55.
I have avoided buying Festool based solely on price. I worked on a job where the trim carpenter had about 20 Festool tools and he offered me his DF500Q to take to my shop and try it out for a couple of weeks.
I really liked it and bought one which lead to the accessory buying addiction. I use the Domino for everything- face frames, cabinet boxes, cabinet doors, screen doors, and many other things. I have used about 2000 dominos (based on how much I have had to restock them). I still remember how much it all cost but I don't regret it. It has improved the quality and strength of the things I build.
Walt
I have avoided buying Festool based solely on price. I worked on a job where the trim carpenter had about 20 Festool tools and he offered me his DF500Q to take to my shop and try it out for a couple of weeks.
I really liked it and bought one which lead to the accessory buying addiction. I use the Domino for everything- face frames, cabinet boxes, cabinet doors, screen doors, and many other things. I have used about 2000 dominos (based on how much I have had to restock them). I still remember how much it all cost but I don't regret it. It has improved the quality and strength of the things I build.
Walt
Pssssst Walt.
You're hooked. Welcome!
Peter
You're hooked. Welcome!
Peter
Hi Walt,
Welcome to the FOG! [smile]
The TS55 will do what you want. Definetly the choice for the plywood. Use it for the door trimming and if it struggles then get the 28 tooth blade for that task. The TS55 comes with a 55" rail which is just enough to cross cut 48". The 106" rail will do the eight foot cuts. Personally I prefer the 75" rail for cross cutting plywood. The extra length is nice for diagonals and if you use the hose deflector on the end of the rail. Though the 106" is long enough for eight foot cuts the 118" is a little easier to position. As long as the 118" won't pose transport or storage issues I'd get that over the 106". As to the 75"....... some dealers will let you upgrade from the 55" that comes with the saw by paying the price difference in the rails.
Do you have a vac to connect it too?
Seth
Welcome to the FOG! [smile]
The TS55 will do what you want. Definetly the choice for the plywood. Use it for the door trimming and if it struggles then get the 28 tooth blade for that task. The TS55 comes with a 55" rail which is just enough to cross cut 48". The 106" rail will do the eight foot cuts. Personally I prefer the 75" rail for cross cutting plywood. The extra length is nice for diagonals and if you use the hose deflector on the end of the rail. Though the 106" is long enough for eight foot cuts the 118" is a little easier to position. As long as the 118" won't pose transport or storage issues I'd get that over the 106". As to the 75"....... some dealers will let you upgrade from the 55" that comes with the saw by paying the price difference in the rails.
Do you have a vac to connect it too?
Seth
Thanks Seth,
I do have a couple of cheap vacs. They are a necessary when using the Domino Joiner. Are the Festool vacs that much better. I actually use a shop vac every day on the job.
Please tell me how the longer guides are easier to position. I was going to get the 55" and the 106" but I am listening.
Walt
Onley Woodworking Co.
I do have a couple of cheap vacs. They are a necessary when using the Domino Joiner. Are the Festool vacs that much better. I actually use a shop vac every day on the job.
Please tell me how the longer guides are easier to position. I was going to get the 55" and the 106" but I am listening.
Walt
Onley Woodworking Co.
