Advice sought on building a jewelry box

[guitar_ed]

Hi All,

I am building a jewelry box for my daughter, 14.5" x 9.5" x8" tall.  I am using flamed maple, with koa veneer between the pieces.  As I have some confusion & indecision regarding some elements of this task, I am asking for help & suggestions.  Some of this is even Festool related.

1) The edge joins.  This thing is 14.5" wide, and made of multiple pieces.  As mentioned above, I will be using koa veneer to highlight & separate the pieces.  My question is to Domino or not to Domino.  I do have a Domino 500, so that is not the issue.  The reasons to use the Domino are:  A) Edge alignment front to back.  B) Edge alignment top to bottom.  C) Structural support while clamping.  Since it's a jewelry box, it will not be under stress, as say a cutting board might be.

2) The corner joins.  There are three ways I can do this.  A)  Hand cut dovetails.  I am OK at doing them.  Frankly, neither my daughter or wife would care about the attention to detail or level of difficulty involved.  They would not be impressed.  B) 45 degree corners, with 4mm Dominos.  C) 90 degree corners.  I would cover the exposed end grain with glue veneer.  And I would use Dominos.  I should mention that I do care about the corners, and would prefer the dovetails.

3) Currently my stock is 3/4" thick. Leave it at that, or take it to 1/2" stock.  For the dovetails, 1/2" would be much easier.  For the Dominos, 3/4" would be better.  But the 3/4" looks a bit "heavy", the 1/2" "lighter".

As I write this out & re-read it, the answers seem obvious.  Yes to the Dominos, if only help with alignment.  I could use 4mm Dominos for this, as they are a bit small for structural support.  I could also use 5mm or 6mm Dominos.  And if I stay at 3/4" stock, I could use the 8mm x 50mm Dominos.  But I think that is over kill.

And if I do the dovetails wrong, I can cut them off, use one of the options, and just make the jewelry box smaller.  No big deal.  And the 4mm Dominos would work just fine for alignment purposes.

Comments & suggestions are welcome.  Particularly if they help me avoid a FUBAR 

Thanks,

edg

 

[nclemmons]

I'd do the dovetails if you are capable.  A classic joint and will add interest to the piece.  And is shows more 'handmade' than just doing butt.  If not dovetails, perhaps the mitered joint with a simple spline.  Again, a classic joint for jewelry boxes.

I would go to 1/2" or even 3/8" for the stock.  This is a jewelry box, not a lock box

Not clear what you mean by veneer 'between the pieces' - can you explain that? 

You said 14.5" wide, but you are running the stock lengthwise for the front and back and I assume the top.  So not sure what the issue is with alignment.  At only 9.5" deep and with 1/2 or 3/8 stock, I don't think you need dominos - just square joints, glue and some clamps. 

How are you doing the top connected to the sides?  Dado with an inset top, perhaps tapered?

Here's a box I did years ago - mitered corners in 3/8" material.  Inset top that was maybe 3/4 and tapered down.  I did not do splines on this but I think I would if I were doing it again.

http://festoolownersgroup.com/member-projects/jewelry-box/msg52855/#msg52855

Unfortunately, the photos are lost other than the in-thread thumbnails.  I attached a few that I could find below.

Good luck and please share your work!

neil