An engineer's thoughts, first use TS55 REQ

I believe he's saying he only uses his track with sheet goods....

Festool has advertised and built the saw to be used both on and off the track.  I had no problems following pencil lines freehand.  The cut alignment marks are clear and accurate.  The saw had plenty of power to cut through all but the dripping wet boards without bogging down as long as I cut at a reasonable pace for wet lumber.  It did have trouble when boards were in a bind (sawhorses not level etc).  As long as I had a sacrificial backer board or had very small unsupported cuttoffs it worked exceptionally well.  I see no reason to limit its use to sheet goods, though sheet goods is predominantly what I work with.

Also, I have a hard time seeing how a grip to keep the plunge springs depressed is unsafe.  This would be no different than holding the blade guard open on a circ saw with the retracting lever.  Then again, I don't use the blade guard on my table saw either- but I don't know many who do.
 
Intrepid said:
Also, I have a hard time seeing how a grip to keep the plunge springs depressed is unsafe.  This would be no different than holding the blade guard open on a circ saw with the retracting lever.  Then again, I don't use the blade guard on my table saw either- but I don't know many who do.

[scared]you sir, are a main contractors worse nightmare!
If I caught a sub on site without guards in place the plugs would be cut off the saw and the individual politely asked to leave post haste!!
 
Jak147 said:
[scared]you sir, are a main contractors worse nightmare!
If I caught a sub on site without guards in place the plugs would be cut off the saw and the individual politely asked to leave post haste!!

Unfortunately this is a pretty common sight on job sites in the US. Admittedly the blade guards on portable table saws (in our market) were quite horrible up until a few years ago.
 
Intrepid said:
Also, I have a hard time seeing how a grip to keep the plunge springs depressed is unsafe.  This would be no different than holding the blade guard open on a circ saw with the retracting lever.

Comparing these two doesn't make the first a safe action, it just means that it is as unsafe as the second.  [eek]

Why would you want to keep the saw plunged?
 
elfick said:
Intrepid said:
Also, I have a hard time seeing how a grip to keep the plunge springs depressed is unsafe.  This would be no different than holding the blade guard open on a circ saw with the retracting lever.

Comparing these two doesn't make the first a safe action, it just means that it is as unsafe as the second.  [eek]

Why would you want to keep the saw plunged?

When you let go of the blade guard on a typical circular saw, the spring moves it back to the safe position. When you lift a plunge cut saw, the spring moves the blade into the safe position.

Defeating either of those makes the saws inherently unsafe.

Tom
 
Over here if the health and safety executive had their way, removing guards would be punishable by death!
The way I see it is, if you remove a guard in your shop and cut yourself well then maybe you just learnt the something the hard way, but if you set foot on a site with other tradesmen then you are endangering them too and that is unacceptable.
Not to mention the fact that here, as a main contractor I have to assume responsibility for all those on site including subs, clients and the local strays!
 
Have to agree about saw guards not being removed. Manufactures go to the effort of making the saws as safe as possible, so why undo it.
 
Just to be clear, I wasn't condoning the use of a saw without a blade guard. I was merely stating that it's pretty common to see saws with them removed here.
 
Long ago I got my start as a graduate and licensed engineer. Later while working I taught engineering at grad school. I know many other FOG members who are respected and experienced engineers. So with all due respect, I am disturbed when problems clearly of inexperience using Festools get blamed upon the design. Just because we are trained in one or more fields of engineering hardly qualifies us to render expert opinions in engineering fields outside our training and experience. The fact is that not all that many engineers are good at the design of hand power tools. My experience is that a large percentage of those qualified portable power tool engineers are already employed by Festool/TTS.

Everyone is entitled to an opinion; this is mine.
 
For cross cutting 2-by's most framers opt for a side winder (worm drive) saw & position the work to let the weight of the saw & gravity do most of the work.  I can't think that any track saw would be nearly as fast.
 
Although I have not done any framing recently, I completely agree with Ron.

I have a reliable worm-drive which could well be 40 years old. When I cannot cut construction lumber on the large radial arm or non-Festool miter saw, I break out my trusted worm-drive.
 
Since when is building picnic tables considered framing?  I still say a miter saw would have been the best choice for the OP's stated use.  E.g. Repetitive length cuts and angles would have been fast, efficient, and safe using a miter saw.
 
rljatl said:
Since when is building picnic tables considered framing?  I still say a miter saw would have been the best choice for the OP's stated use.  E.g. Repetitive length cuts and angles would have been fast, efficient, and safe using a miter saw.

As described by the OP, the lumber used for the tables is more often used for framing.

Had an appropriate type of miter saw been available that would have been a better choice of tool than a TS55 REQ in my opinion.
 
If you are cutting a pile of 2X's it's just easier & faster to move the saw to the work instead of the work to the saw.  For a picnic table the miter saw would be great.
 
I could be totally missing something, but why would you want to use a worm drive. Saws like the ts55 to me are aimed at predominantly sheet goods to work with the rails. When it comes to tasks like roof framing cutting your jack rafters then saws like hilti wsc85, wsc70 or the mafell ksp85 are more suitable to the task as the can bevel up to 60 degrees
 
i use my rail saw for sheet stuff and kitchens. i have an old kango 9 inch circ for 1st fix, roofing etc where im using heavy timbers. for smaller stuff i use my hitachi c7 circ.

worm drive would just be something different to use.
 
wrightwoodwork said:
I could be totally missing something, but why would you want to use a worm drive. Saws like the ts55 to me are aimed at predominantly sheet goods to work with the rails. When it comes to tasks like roof framing cutting your jack rafters then saws like hilti wsc85, wsc70 or the mafell ksp85 are more suitable to the task as the can bevel up to 60 degrees

Many framers choose Skil but this shows some of the features that framers look for:
 
wrightwoodwork said:
I could be totally missing something, but why would you want to use a worm drive. Saws like the ts55 to me are aimed at predominantly sheet goods to work with the rails. When it comes to tasks like roof framing cutting your jack rafters then saws like hilti wsc85, wsc70 or the mafell ksp85 are more suitable to the task as the can bevel up to 60 degrees

worm drives with the Bigfoot swing table bevel to 75°
 
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