Angle jig

[lerberg1969@gmail.com]

Hello!

Does anybody know of another jig, simular as in this link, that could take larger angle then 60 degree??https://www.woodpeck.com/woodpeckers-adjustable-track-square.html

Regards
Kåre!

 

[Peter_C]

https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/bo...finders-and-inclinometer-gam-220-mf-140453-p/

Set the angle and lock the rail down for the cut. I use my angle meters in all kinds of ways.

(Always good to put your country of origin in so others can offer more direct help.)

 

[Rick Herrick]

Its a chunk of change but this might give you more.

MTR-18 Precision Square

 

[afish]

I second the MTR.  I own one and everything about it is top notch.  Much more versatile however less compact than the WP. 

 

[ChuckM]

Festool?
https://tinyurl.com/yebph2mh

 

[Peter_C]

Festool?
https://tinyurl.com/yebph2mh

I have that piece of junk. The first thing it needs is a modification to hold position by adding a washer to the pivot. I don't ever use it, but do use my Bosch angle meter. The TSO triangle is a great option I had forgotten about.

 

[PaulMarcel]

One thing I'd point out about digital angle finders is to pay attention to the specifications. A lot of them show two digits after the decimal, but the spec says ±0.2  [crying] The extra digit is there to fool you into thinking it is accurate to anything in the hundredths of a degree.

Second, think of the accuracy you need. If you are setting blade tilt and miter gauge angle for compound cuts on the flat, you need a lot of accuracy as the error will compound. Do you need that on one pair of compound cuts for a compound joint? Maybe not. If you have 8 compound joints for a box then you probably do. For that, the Bridge City Toolworks AngleMaster Pro v2 is your gold standard. They come up occasionally on eBay. Wish BCTW would make another run. I use mine _way_more_ than I expected.

The TSO, however, is really good.

 

[Stone Message]

If you require just 45 degrees then you can do this on an MFT3 with various tall and short dogs. If you want 30 deg and 60 deg as well then you could create an isometric MFT3 top. Please forgive the commercial but other methods could be used:


Peter

 

[Michael Kellough]

One thing I'd point out about digital angle finders is to pay attention to the specifications. A lot of them show two digits after the decimal, but the spec says ±0.2  [crying] The extra digit is there to fool you into thinking it is accurate to anything in the hundredths of a degree.

Second, think of the accuracy you need. If you are setting blade tilt and miter gauge angle for compound cuts on the flat, you need a lot of accuracy as the error will compound. Do you need that on one pair of compound cuts for a compound joint? Maybe not. If you have 8 compound joints for a box then you probably do. For that, the Bridge City Toolworks AngleMaster Pro v2 is your gold standard. They come up occasionally on eBay. Wish BCTW would make another run. I use mine _way_more_ than I expected.

The TSO, however, is really good.

The Bosch digital angle finder is honest at least, +/- .1* accuracy and only displays tenths of degrees, but unless the joint is no more than a few inches long an error of .1* is too much.

For anyone doubting this stick a digital inclinometer on the blade of your tablesaw and watch how far you have to tilt the arbor before the display changes to the next increment.

Wish I hadn’t missed the upgraded BCT AngleMaster but I get by with a machinist’s vernier protractor.

 

[Oldwood]

We did a cabinet job that had 2.25" thick counters 26" deep with hickory veneers. The contractor insisted it all needed to be precut and pre-finished.

We built an angle guide with the cnc to cut the miter joints. It has a reference fence that is 30" long and gave us good results. We needed the cut capacity of the TS75 because of the thickness.

It is too large for small pieces but worked well for this job. It was the right tool for the job it was built for.

We have made some of these for other shops but have now retired and don't produce them anymore.

 

[Michael Kellough]

That’s a protractor!  [thumbs up]

Very interesting photos. Hope you post more like that. Really like you part tree.

 

[dashboardpws]

You said it, Michael. Very impressive.

 

[Oldwood]

"Really like you part tree."

Thanks, Michael,

Those are drying racks we built for painting. Our shop did not have a dedicated finishing area when we built them, so they were designed so all the supports would fit in the centre box when it was not in use.

We have as you can see found many other uses for them when not finishing.

"That’s a protractor! " It does NOT fit in a systainer

 

[afish]

We did a cabinet job that had 2.25" thick counters 26" deep with hickory veneers. The contractor insisted it all needed to be precut and pre-finished.

We built an angle guide with the cnc to cut the miter joints. It has a reference fence that is 30" long and gave us good results. We needed the cut capacity of the TS75 because of the thickness.

It is too large for small pieces but worked well for this job. It was the right tool for the job it was built for.

We have made some of these for other shops but have now retired and don't produce them anymore.

I too like the protractor but struggle to figure out why the track needs to be attached to it.  Wouldn't it be better to just butt the track to the edge of the protractor?  It seems like it would be a little unwieldy and somewhat delicate to pick up and move around. Any insight on why all one piece.

 

[Peter_C]

I too like the protractor but struggle to figure out why the track needs to be attached to it.  Wouldn't it be better to just butt the track to the edge of the protractor?  It seems like it would be a little unwieldy and somewhat delicate to pick up and move around. Any insight on why all one piece.

That is how I use my Bosch angle finder, which works just fine for the projects I have done as most are fairly small. Others say it isn't accurate enough at + or - .1* and there is always the option of just using measurements, and setting the rail to marks. *shrugs* The TSO product has appeal

 

[afish]

I too like the protractor but struggle to figure out why the track needs to be attached to it.  Wouldn't it be better to just butt the track to the edge of the protractor?  It seems like it would be a little unwieldy and somewhat delicate to pick up and move around. Any insight on why all one piece.

That is how I use my Bosch angle finder, which works just fine for the projects I have done as most are fairly small. Others say it isn't accurate enough at + or - .1* and there is always the option of just using measurements, and setting the rail to marks. *shrugs* The TSO product has appeal

I have the TSO MTR but never use it for angles.  Mostly just an expensive but known good square checker. It is pricy and could see the appeal for a cheaper plywood version.  It might not be down to the .0005 but should satisfy 99%

 

[Oldwood]

We did a cabinet job that had 2.25" thick counters 26" deep with hickory veneers. The contractor insisted it all needed to be precut and pre-finished.

We built an angle guide with the cnc to cut the miter joints. It has a reference fence that is 30" long and gave us good results. We needed the cut capacity of the TS75 because of the thickness.

It is too large for small pieces but worked well for this job. It was the right tool for the job it was built for.

We have made some of these for other shops but have now retired and don't produce them anymore.

I too like the protractor but struggle to figure out why the track needs to be attached to it.  Wouldn't it be better to just butt the track to the edge of the protractor?  It seems like it would be a little unwieldy and somewhat delicate to pick up and move around. Any insight on why all one piece.

Hi, It is more accurate and easier to use with it attached, although you could use it without being attached. It is lightweight and easy to move although of course not as easy as a smaller square. In use, I hold the fence against the workpiece with one hand and lift on the rail on the back side, so it will slide left or right to line up with the mark. This would be awkward without having it attached. I think you also introduce an opportunity for less accuracy with relying on pushing the rail against the fence. There always seems to be a random wood chip that gets in between the two.

Gerry

 

 

[TSO_Products]

This short video shows how the TSO MTR-18 Triangle is used in conjunction with the Axminster UJK Dog Rail Clip to make angle cuts on sheet goods easy and with a high degree of accuracy.


This does not require anything in the way of a 20mm dog hole pattern or even a table.
0 around to 360 and anything in between.

Hans

 

[Packard]

If it is just for occasional use, download a protractor and print it as large as you can.  Tape or glue to the surface and simply align the track. 

Cut through the paper.

I would think printing it to fit on a 8½ x 11 sheet would be large enough for this purpose.  Print a couple dozen of these sheets and keep them in a drawer until you need them.

The downloads are free and all over the internet.

Here's one on PDF.  I just printed one.  I don't know how to print it larger however.
https://sciencenotes.org/printable-protractors/

Here is another.  Excellent clarity but still just 6" wide.  I would like to find one that is almost twice that size.
https://www.inchcalculator.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/protractor.pdf

 

[Michael Kellough]

If it is just for occasional use, download a protractor and print it as large as you can.  Tape or glue to the surface and simply align the track. 

Cut through the paper.

I would think printing it to fit on a 8½ x 11 sheet would be large enough for this purpose.  Print a couple dozen of these sheets and keep them in a drawer until you need them.

The downloads are free and all over the internet.

Here's one on PDF.  I just printed one.  I don't know how to print it larger however.
https://sciencenotes.org/printable-protractors/

Here is another.  Excellent clarity but still just 6" wide.  I would like to find one that is almost twice that size.
https://www.inchcalculator.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/protractor.pdf

If you need it to be accurate use an inkjet printer.