Angle jig

[ChuckM]

Snip.

If you need it to be accurate use an inkjet printer.

[big grin] [big grin]

Seriously, ruler and pencil lines (0.3mm lead) or scribed lines would produce more accurate results for one-time use or two.

 

[Michael Kellough]

Snip.

If you need it to be accurate use an inkjet printer.

[big grin] [big grin]

Seriously, ruler and pencil lines (0.3mm lead) or scribed lines would produce more accurate results for one-time use or two.

I meant use an inkjet instead of a laser printer. Every laser I’ve used distorted.

Not having a big accurate protractor when I needed to draw an angle at large scale from plans I would use cad to find the Cartesian coordinates that lay on the lines and then use my best measuring tool to lay them out.

 

[Packard]

I printed the protractor out this morning on my laser printer and handed it to our QC manager to check the accuracy.  I had wanted him to check it on our Nikon optical comparator.  Unfortunately the comparator will only work if I print it on transparency film, and we do not have any of that in the office.

We did check it with our machinists blocks.  We have 30-60-90 blocks and 45-45-90 blocks.  Our QC manager said the accuracy was within the thickness of the printed lines which appear to be about 0.004" - 0.006" thick.

I checked 1", 2", 3" and 4" using my calibrated vernier calipers and they also appear to be dead on (within the thickness of the lines).

This might not be accurate enough for fine machining, but it exceeds the accuracy needed for woodworking. 

For occasional use, this seems like a perfectly reasonable solution. 

 

[Michael Kellough]

That downloadable protractor (the first one) is too small to judge. A span of 90 degrees covers only 3”. The lines indicating degrees are more 2/10ths degree thick.

I am curious if you have a laser printer that does not distort. I test by making a 1” square grid in cad using the finest possible line thickness covering 8x10 inches and then measure the overall printed grid. Sometimes accurate in one direction but nearly always off (usually short) in the other direction. Might not be a problem in most cases but I like to know the limitations of my tools.

 

[Packard]

But for woodworking, you need machinists' accuracy?  I like to work as accurately as I can, but even using dowels, probably the most demanding for accuracy that I encounter, is not working to machinists' demands.  The drill bits in the jig have more slop than that.

And some 3/8" drill bits fit looser than others in the jigs, so I'm not even sure that all the drill bits are 100% on.

 

[Michael Kellough]

Seems like we’re talking about different scale projects.

I’m thinking of stuff like Oldwood posted, large scale and multiple joints where errors accumulate. A tenth degree error in any one of those joints and the construction would not have fit the site without.

 

[Packard]

I would template that if I were building it. 

I would use strips of 3" wide x 3/16" Masonite or 1/4" plywood and a hot glue gun to get the accurate template.  There is no way I would work from "plans" for that.

If the template were very large, I would use the hot glue as a "clamp" and add some carpenters' glue to each junction and let it set.

More examples: https://www.google.com/search?q=templating+for+countertops&client=firefox-b-1-d&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi5vqij0p7wAhXjg-AKHcTuBYAQ_AUoAnoECAEQBA&biw=1600&bih=786#imgrc=ZXg1ehm5Is1qdM&imgdii=z0ZAADF6y150YM
I try not to use rulers where I can avoid it by either transferring directly to the stock or using a story stick.  Almost all the errors I have ever made in the shop have been at the hands of some ruler or measuring device.  I avoid them whenever possible. 

 

[ChuckM]

When angle accuracy matters (whether it's 90*, 22.5* or 75*), tradespeople building countertops, kitchen cabinets, etc. use this not-so-secret weapon as a last resort!
https://tinyurl.com/4pp8274u

 

[Packard]

Grizzly makes an oversized protractor for $36.00.  I've never seen one in person so I don't know how well it locks when screwed tight.

Only one review listed and it was positive.
https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-large-protractor-with-locking-knob/h2687

 

[Oldwood]

"I would template that if I were building it." 

We did template it but also had a lot of cover at the back against the wall because the uppers sat on the counters all the way around and the walls were sheeted with 3/4 veneered sheets between the cabinets. The counters needed to fit tight to the walls on the ends only.

 

[Oldwood]

When angle accuracy matters (whether it's 90*, 22.5* or 75*), tradespeople building countertops, kitchen cabinets, etc. use this not-so-secret weapon as a last resort!
https://tinyurl.com/4pp8274u

That looks like it might be useful, I have never seen that stuff before [big grin]

 

[Crazyraceguy]

When angle accuracy matters (whether it's 90*, 22.5* or 75*), tradespeople building countertops, kitchen cabinets, etc. use this not-so-secret weapon as a last resort!
https://tinyurl.com/4pp8274u

That looks like it might be useful, I have never seen that stuff before [big grin]

Just be aware that the stuff called "painter's putty" is oil based and it takes forever to dry/harden. It is meant to hold glass to the sash, it makes a lousy filler. There are better options for that.
Durham's rockhard water putty comes to mind or ordinary autobody filler both work well.

As far as the original project of this topic, the famous "it depends" comes to mind.
In some situations and for most of the past years, it is just quicker/easier to template it. I have seen guys do it with cardboard strips, but 1/4" plywood or MDF strips are far more accurate.
In more recent years we would do that with a Laser Templator. This can then be uploaded to the CNC to cut out parts for Solid Surface tops, or particle board for laminate tops. On a job of solid wood like that it would likely just be cut out of 1/4" MDF for an odd shape or just transferred to a measured drawing for simple rectangular parts.

 

[ChuckM]

When it comes to furniture pieces, I wouldn't use any of the putty except the Timber Mate which you can find a matching color or stain it (the latter is a safer bet in my opinion). It doesn't shrink, and, with proper finishing skill, does a good job fooling an average consumer.

 

[Oldwood]

When it comes to furniture pieces, I wouldn't use any of the putty except the Timber Mate which you can find a matching color or stain it (the latter is a safer bet in my opinion). It doesn't shrink, and, with proper finishing skill, does a good job fooling an average consumer.

Way back when, Windsor plywood sold a wood filler that was wood ground fine with a solvent based binder. I don't remember the name.That was the last one I found that would stain like most woods. It was also easy to thin with lacquer thinner when it dried out in the can.

I have not tried the timber mate.

 

[hoe]

Here is my jig/fence

 

[Michael Kellough]

I like the flat square clamp friendly sides of your table.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

When it comes to furniture pieces, I wouldn't use any of the putty except the Timber Mate which you can find a matching color or stain it (the latter is a safer bet in my opinion). It doesn't shrink, and, with proper finishing skill, does a good job fooling an average consumer.

Way back when, Windsor plywood sold a wood filler that was wood ground fine with a solvent based binder. I don't remember the name. That was the last one I found that would stain like most woods. It was also easy to thin with lacquer thinner when it dried out in the can.

I have not tried the timber mate.

Famowood?

 

[Oldwood]

"Famowood?"

I don't think so. But I can't be sure it has been a long time since I used it.