Another BF/MFT Build

[fpsnyder]

Thank you for the compliment. The DropBox link with the plans is listed above in the conversation thread. I'll post it again for your convenience.

DropBox Link for BF-MFT Build

 

[sawdust-samurai]

This is a super nice build, good job man.  Now that you have been using it for a year or so, have you found any issues with having the entire table covered with holes?

 

[fpsnyder]

Thank you, Sawdust Samurai! With regards to the holes, anything that does fall through them lands on the dust pan a few inches below and can be easily recovered. I also left enough height beneath the table surface so I can maneuver the shop vacuum in there and clean up any dust. My other tricks are if I am doing a glue up is to just run a length of construction paper on the top and tape down the corners...this keeps glue from mucking up the surface and the holes are still usable with a small puncture if need be. I also keep a 2x4 sheet of Masonite handy if I just need a quick non-porous surface on which to work. The advantages of having this MFT surface outweigh the minor hassles of having a porous top in my opinion.

 

[sawdust-samurai]

Thank you, Sawdust Samurai! With regards to the holes, anything that does fall through them lands on the dust pan a few inches below and can be easily recovered. I also left enough height beneath the table surface so I can maneuver the shop vacuum in there and clean up any dust. My other tricks are if I am doing a glue up is to just run a length of construction paper on the top and tape down the corners...this keeps glue from mucking up the surface and the holes are still usable with a small puncture if need be. I also keep a 2x4 sheet of Masonite handy if I just need a quick non-porous surface on which to work. The advantages of having this MFT surface outweigh the minor hassles of having a porous top in my opinion.

Thanks for the reply.  I often throw a 5mil trash bag on my current table when I do glue ups or paint, so your construction paper idea is a good one.  I imagine that you can store the Masonite sheet on top of the dust pan to keep it handy and out of the way at the same time.

My current workbench is a simple 4x8 table but I planning on building one every similar to yours (no aluminum).  I was a little concerned about having so many holes, with many of them probably never getting used, that it might cause issues trying to do other things on it.  You have relieved me of those concerns.

If you are open to it, I have a suggestion for your guide rail "kickstand".  I've not tested this out yet, but the idea for my table is to make a triangle shaped kickstand that mounts to the edge of the table at the hinge point.  The placement/angle of this kickstand would make it so that the track stops at the correct height/angle for me to easily grab it from the front of the table.  The cool part is how to keep the track up and out of way when you need it.  If you weight the end of the track by the hinge, you can get it to sit back on the kickstand with nothing supporting the front.  The trick is to get just the right amount of weight (adding washers maybe?) back there so as you pull the guide down it hits a breakover point and then the weight of the guide is enough to keep it down on the table.  This system does not require any thing to move around or misplace and you can operate it one handed.

Again, I have not tried this but in theory it should work.

 

[MikeGE]

If you are open to it, I have a suggestion for your guide rail "kickstand".  I've not tested this out yet, but the idea for my table is to make a triangle shaped kickstand that mounts to the edge of the table at the hinge point.  The placement/angle of this kickstand would make it so that the track stops at the correct height/angle for me to easily grab it from the front of the table.  The cool part is how to keep the track up and out of way when you need it.  If you weight the end of the track by the hinge, you can get it to sit back on the kickstand with nothing supporting the front.  The trick is to get just the right amount of weight (adding washers maybe?) back there so as you pull the guide down it hits a breakover point and then the weight of the guide is enough to keep it down on the table.  This system does not require any thing to move around or misplace and you can operate it one handed.

This sounds like a great idea!  The ceiling in my shop is low and I can't lift the FS 1400/2 to the vertical position.  I have to hold it with one hand or prop it up with a stick while I slide material under it.  A set of weights or a spring on the hinge end might provide enough counterbalance to keep the guide rail up unassisted when I lift it.  A plate with a spring-loaded bearing detent that is part of the hinge would be better.

 

[sawdust-samurai]

If you are open to it, I have a suggestion for your guide rail "kickstand".  I've not tested this out yet, but the idea for my table is to make a triangle shaped kickstand that mounts to the edge of the table at the hinge point.  The placement/angle of this kickstand would make it so that the track stops at the correct height/angle for me to easily grab it from the front of the table.  The cool part is how to keep the track up and out of way when you need it.  If you weight the end of the track by the hinge, you can get it to sit back on the kickstand with nothing supporting the front.  The trick is to get just the right amount of weight (adding washers maybe?) back there so as you pull the guide down it hits a breakover point and then the weight of the guide is enough to keep it down on the table.  This system does not require any thing to move around or misplace and you can operate it one handed.

This sounds like a great idea!  The ceiling in my shop is low and I can't lift the FS 1400/2 to the vertical position.  I have to hold it with one hand or prop it up with a stick while I slide material under it.  A set of weights or a spring on the hinge end might provide enough counterbalance to keep the guide rail up unassisted when I lift it.  A plate with a spring-loaded bearing detent that is part of the hinge would be better.

I thought about the bearing detent option as well, but that makes it more complicated... at least with my beginner level skills.  The counter weight with a stop on the backside should be plenty.