Another Kapex Bites the dust. Again.

[ChuckM]

One thing I didn't mention was I was told that Festool will repair this fault F.O.C. for any saw up to 5 years old, but mine was 7 years old so had to pay.

Five or three?

There have been contradicting remarks on this. Many American owners are adamant that their warranty covers three years only; some Canadian owners reported that they had got free repairs up to five years. My paperwork (Canadian) says 1+2 for three years. Officially, my Kapex (4 yrs old) is no longer covered if it ever goes south.

As for new parts (e.g. armature), someone seemed to have pointed out the part # is the same in the Ekat, and so are they really fixing the motors with new and different armatures? i wonder if anyone from Festool can some shed light on this so-called improved parts.

 

[kevinculle]

Industry practice generally is that changes to a part that do not affect form, fit or function can maintain the same part number.  If the armature has been changed to improve its electrical durability without a part number change then that makes it impossible to track whether the "improved" armature is indeed better.

 

[Jiggy Joiner]

It really does seem a can of worms, and Festool still remaining tight lipped about percentages, causes and fixes isn’t helping anybody, least of all Festool?

 

[Doug S]

Second time mine was repaired it was out of the 3 year warranty but fixed for free, just checked and it was 4yrs 10 months old when fixed so guess I was just inside the window.

That was almost 2 years ago and no more problems yet.

I was told by a Festool rep not long after the repair it would have been fixed with an updated part so I think unless we hear of any Kapex smoking which are less then 2 years old or repaired less then 2 years ago (which I don't recall we have?) we can presume the problem is no more.......

 

[Jiggy Joiner]

To be honest Doug, that’s pretty much what I was told by a Festool employee.

 

[fn]

Resurrecting a necropost.  Yesterday the Kapex died cross-cutting a 1x8 piece of melamine.  Not sure of the age, other than it’s definitely out of warranty.  Purchased mail order from Bob Marino Festool, so I don’t have a dealer to turn to for help.  I’m a weekend woodworker and expected a life time of light use from this tool but alas.  I have bench tools that my father had that are over 30 years old, and still running strong.

Anyway I spoke with Festool repair representative who was going unwilling to discuss a price other than “most repairs come in under half the replacement cost of the tool.”  They will not provide a shipping box for out of warranty repairs.  The local UPS store wants to charge $400 to box and ship.  Coupled with the same price to return ship, this makes the whole repair process untenable.  Any thoughts. 

 

[batmanimal]

$400 to ship one way?! I know that includes packaging and boxing, but MAN.

I would assume Festool does not cover shipping the repaired saw back to you, so that cost should be factored in, along with the repair cost.

Half the replacement cost + round trip shipping = basically the price of a new Kapex.

Unless the “half of replacement cost” includes return shipping?

Even then, that’s a lot of money for a repair. You may be better off selling the broken Kapex and getting another saw (which understandably may or may not be another Kapex!)

 

[Cheese]

I'd try looking at U-Line for some ready made boxes, they come in 100's of different sizes. I'd go for double boxing up the Kapex or using an outer box + thin bubble pack + inner box or something along that line. Most of the large Festool items are all shipped double boxed.

A lot of these small "local" UPS stores are geared more for convenience and gouge charge accordingly. My local "convenience" UPS store wanted to charge me $130 to return a router bit to Germany...the post office charged me $25 including tracking.

I can't imagine shipping alone would be more than $100-$150 each way once the packaging is taken care of.

 

[ChuckM]

Any idea what went bust? The motor/armature?

Someone has shard photos about replacing it with a new armature. Reportedly, the new part (REB) no longer suffers from the motor failure.

If you're like me and aren't technical/electrical enough, see if you can find a friend who is and who can help you. Including the costs of parts and feeding your friend a nice meal, the total DIY repair cost might still be less than the one-way shipping cost alone ($400?).

 

[Cheese]

Just tagging onto what Chuck is saying, I think I remember the DIY costs coming to around $150-$175. Certainly the cheapest route to go.

 

[guybo]

https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tool-problems/another-dead-kapex-55656/60/ I think repair costs are high because of warranties everything get replaced.This blow by blow pfd will help @ reply #71

 

[jeh]

I'd try looking at U-Line for some ready made boxes, they come in 100's of different sizes. I'd go for double boxing up the Kapex or using an outer box + thin bubble pack + inner box or something along that line. Most of the large Festool items are all shipped double boxed.

A lot of these small "local" UPS stores are geared more for convenience and gouge charge accordingly. My local "convenience" UPS store wanted to charge me $130 to return a router bit to Germany...the post office charged me $25 including tracking.

I can't imagine shipping alone would be more than $100-$150 each way once the packaging is taken care of.

Get a FedEx account. Depending on where you work or bank there might be preferred account. You also can use PayPal to ship as well (http://PayPal.shipstation.com) It might be trickier to login. I go to my PayPal account first and then enter that URL. No FedEx, but they do have USPS and UPS. You do not have to ship based on a PayPal payment. The rates are significantly cheaper like they are when you ship using eBay. Sometimes the discount is substantially more than mine.

Another option is to use your works shipping account if you can. It is probably very cheap because they get better rates and it is shipping to/from a business. Obviously going through works account might require some negotiating especially if it is a large company.

 

[glass1]

Ouch. Every company has winners and losers. It just hurts more with festool as the cost is higher. I have noticed Makita has upped their prices. If you do not need to be mobile sell the kapex. Buy the Makita ls1019l. Straighten rails buy the the stein miter plate. You will get 20 years out it. Great dust collection 60 degree miter both directions great power. But heavy, no dual lasers, and no elegant bevel adjust. You know the kapex could be a lovely saw if festool could,
Fix the leaky arbor, make the table flat, more power and eliminate motor burn out (fix all burned out saws for free), eliminate silly weight gaining pull out extensions and go back to original design- no real woodworker needs that crap, abandon lasers and adopt shadow line, miter lock detent override for easier micro adjustments, and more blade offerings like a 40 tooth for rough stuff. I am sure there’s have suggestions.

 

[Doug S]

How did it die? Did it let out the magic smoke and splutter/run slow or just stop?

If it just stopped it might just be that the carbon brushes need replacing. When the brushes get to a certain wear level the Kapex just stops working (same with most Festools).

My Kapex just stopped about a year ago, I replaced the brushes (easy diy fix) and was up and running again in no time.

 

[Coen]

Ouch. Every company has winners and losers. It just hurts more with festool as the cost is higher. I have noticed Makita has upped their prices. If you do not need to be mobile sell the kapex. Buy the Makita ls1019l. Straighten rails buy the the stein miter plate. You will get 20 years out it. Great dust collection 60 degree miter both directions great power. But heavy, no dual lasers, and no elegant bevel adjust. You know the kapex could be a lovely saw if festool could,
Fix the leaky arbor, make the table flat, more power and eliminate motor burn out (fix all burned out saws for free), eliminate silly weight gaining pull out extensions and go back to original design- no real woodworker needs that junk, abandon lasers and adopt shadow line, miter lock detent override for easier micro adjustments, and more blade offerings like a 40 tooth for rough stuff. I am sure there’s have suggestions.

Might as well get the LS1219L for almost nothing extra  [cool]

 

[ChuckM]

Snip.When the brushes get to a certain wear level the Kapex just stops working (same with most Festools).
Snip.

[thanks]

OK. I'll have to put a label somewhere on my Kapex to remind me of this!!!