Any steel rules with graduations in 128ths?

[rvieceli]

Chuck as it’s been explained to me is that Mitutoyo stuff especially the calipers are one of the more counterfeited items around.

The way that Amazon distribution centers work, as a crude example, is if a package of Mitutoyo products come in they go into a pick bin as a result if another load of Mitutoyo stuff comes in from a third party seller but it’s all counterfeit it still goes in the same bin. So it’s kind of a junk shoot if you get real or fake. This probably applies more to the calipers but who knows.

Zoro is an authorized dealer and I think they ship to Canada. I have not had a problem with them.
https://www.zoro.com/mitutoyo-rule-steel-24-black-182-267/i/G7769288/

Ron

 

[Packard]

A bully in high school had a spring temper 16” (probably) ruler which he used to whack people.  He would bend it back and release it so that it would hit you in the back.  It hurt.

One day during chemistry class, I lifted his ruler and heated it in the middle on the Bunsen burner and then quenched it under a water faucet.  There was one burner and one faucet at each table. 

When he went to whack someone a little later the ruler cracked in the middle.  I don’t think he ever replaced it. 

Note:  Before there were stainless steel rulers, the earlier ones were made from carbon steel which could be heat treated. 

 

[ChuckM]

Chuck as it’s been explained to me is that Mitutoyo stuff especially the calipers are one of the more counterfeited items around.

The way that Amazon distribution centers work, as a crude example, is if a package of Mitutoyo products come in they go into a pick bin as a result if another load of Mitutoyo stuff comes in from a third party seller but it’s all counterfeit it still goes in the same bin. So it’s kind of a junk shoot if you get real or fake. This probably applies more to the calipers but who knows.

Zoro is an authorized dealer and I think they ship to Canada. I have not had a problem with them.
https://www.zoro.com/mitutoyo-rule-steel-24-black-182-267/i/G7769288/

Ron

Link bookmarked. Thanks, Ron. Are Mitutoyo rules made in USA or Japan? I've seen both listed as their country of origin.

 

[rvieceli]

I believe that Products Engineering Corp (PEC) OEMs rule type things for Mitutoyo in the US.

You might want to take a look at Harry Epstein. They have a lot of blems for cheaper prices. Never had any problems with the pieces
https://www.harryepstein.com/tool-brand/products-engineering.html?product_list_limit=all

Ron

 

[Cheese]

Chuck if you order the scale from Zoro, here's a 20% off code that ends May 7th.

Enter Code: RSBK20AV827N1
Ends May 7, 2023, at 11:59pm CT.*

 

[ChuckM]

Thanks a bunch, Cheese. Zoro requires me to buy via myusa.com as it doesn't export outside the US. I also need to use the Generals for a while before deciding if I want to get a 24" rule.

 

[ChuckM]

I believe that Products Engineering Corp (PEC) OEMs rule type things for Mitutoyo in the US.

You might want to take a look at Harry Epstein. They have a lot of blems for cheaper prices. Never had any problems with the pieces
https://www.harryepstein.com/tool-brand/products-engineering.html?product_list_limit=all

Ron

I wish Canada had retailers like Harry Epstein and Harbor Freight. Many Canadian woodworkers think so.

This is a steal, for instance:https://www.harryepstein.com/24-pec-flex-rule-10ths-100ths-5mm-mm-18631.html.

Or this:https://www.harryepstein.com/blem-c...-64ths-machinist-ruler-pec-24-3264-10100.html

I've been to Kansas City several times (4 times to be exact between 2011 and 2017 for business, and eating at Jack Stack BBQ every time), but didn't know about this store at that time! :'(

 

[rvieceli]

Chuck you’ll need to make another trip to visit Harry Epstein and this spot. Possibly the originator of KC bbq
https://www.arthurbryantsbbq.com/

Ron

 

[peacefulandpatriotically]

Zoro is an authorized dealer and I think they ship to Canada. I have not had a problem with them.
https://www.zoro.com/mitutoyo-rule-steel-24-black-182-267/i/G7769288/

Ron

Not to diminish you experiences with Zoro and Mitutoyo products but they are not an authorized dealer.  I just confirmed this with Mitutoyo customer support.  caveat emptor

 

[jeffinsgf]

Chuck you’ll need to make another trip to visit Harry Epstein and this spot. Possibly the originator of KC bbq
https://www.arthurbryantsbbq.com/

Ron

Beef and Fries Walkin' times 2.

 

[Cheese]

Not to diminish you experiences with Zoro and Mitutoyo products but they are not an authorized dealer.  I just confirmed this with Mitutoyo customer support.  caveat emptor

That may be because Zoro is actually owned by Grainger and Grainger is an authorized dealer.

 

[rst]

Did not realize that about Zoro...sneaky devils aren't they.  big biz just keeps getting bigger and bigger

 

[Packard]

I can't measure/mark/cut and consistently get within.5mm to save my life. Where this poses problems for me is mostly working with metal for jiggie type stuff.

Lately I'm relying on gauges of some type (gauge blocks, story sticks, etc.) instead of rulers and if necessary sneaking up on the final dimension.

RMW

Dividers are a reliable and quick way to transfer dimensions.  Starrett make a dedicated woodworking divider in 9” size for $250.00.

I have the 12” version from Harbor Freight for $10.00. 

Though if one edge is accessible, I will use a combination square and slide the squaring arm and use that as a measuring stop.  This has the advantage of transferring dimensions without having to read a ruler, and also having the ruler dimension “saved” in case it is required to transfer to a fence’s scale.

 

[Michael Kellough]

Packard, this presents another answer to your question about what good are units smaller than 1/32”.

You have a space you need to subdivide. Measure it carefully then divide by the number of subunits. To get them equal you’ll likely need to set the divider to less than 1/32” so that is where the scale engraved in 1/100ths comes in. Sharp ends on the dividers fit the tiny engraved increments.

 

[ChuckM]

I adapted this trick on my SawStop (the lines are scribed on the table, not on the plate which can have some play):https://www.finewoodworking.com/2016/09/29/scribe-tablesaws-throat-plate-quicker-crosscuts

For a while, it was great to work with, but then the use of multiple WWII blades and the SawStop premium blade means the trick doesn't work all the time. I now use them to rough check if the fence setting or my placement of the workpiece is correct:

[attachimg=1]

As I said, I have average eye sight, and never have had problem using a steel rule or tape measure to set my saw fence. Been like that for the past 20 years, and have never used a caliper or dial indicator to set up any cuts (on the table saw, router table or drill press).  I do have setup bars, but to be frank, they have been collecting dust because I find it simpler and quicker to use my steel rule (which I have over half a dozen scattered everywhere in the shop). What it means is that we all work differently, although our goals may be similar.

I also prefer to use knife lines, not pencils, for marking the pins (after cutting the tails), but I do mark out the waste with a pencil.

Btw, SawStop fellows: Don't waste your money on new ZCIs ($80 Cdn each!), just Bondo (metal-free) it!

 

[peacefulandpatriotically]

That may be because Zoro is actually owned by Grainger and Grainger is an authorized dealer.

good luck getting mitutoyo to honor a warranty claim from non-authorized dealer by explaining that!!! [laughing] [laughing] [laughing]

 

[ChuckM]

Update on the rules, which were received today.

Those of you who think 1/128th graduations are too fine are probably right, because the 1/100ths are good enough for most measuring.

A superficial run suggested the two new rules are a keeper. I'll decide later if the 6" and 12" re already sufficient, and whether a 24" rule (at $55 or so) can be justified based on usage.

[attachimg=1]

[attachimg=2]

What I like about the General rules in particular is that there's no empty space on the end, meaning that I can use either end to set the fence.

 

[luvmytoolz]

I can't recall anytime in woodworking no matter how detailed or precise the job, that I've split lines at less than a bees d**k either side of around 0.5mm. Using those 1/100th or 1/128th rulers I'd need a magnifying glass just to differentiate the marks and line them up with the wood.

1/128th is really in metalworking territory and you'd use a caliper or micrometer for that.

 

[ChuckM]

As I pointed out before, I use a tape measure and steel rule like a story stick. If a measurement falls between two engraved lines, and it's a write-able tape, I can use a pencil to mark it. Then I take the tape (or rule) the table saw to set the fence. If it's a steel rule, and the cutline is between two graduations, I'll see if the metric scale will help. I know this method works very well for me...until the day my eye sight says otherwise. [big grin]

Now, with the 1/100ths, there's a higher probability that a measurement will fall on one of the graduations. And anyone looking to buy such fine rules, I highly recommend the General for its design and prices.

 

[PaulMarcel]

As I pointed out before, I use a tape measure and steel rule like a story stick.

Maybe the Lee Valley Story Tape will work then. Surly a Canadian checked that first  [cool]