Any work arounds for the LR 32-SYS making the rale longer???

I also only bought the LR32 plate, end stops, LR32 sys guide rails and 5mm bits. You don't need all the other stuff that comes with the expensive set.
 
Hi,

      This One ?

            What am I, Eiji s official link poster now? I mean I had to go and do search and everything!   ::)  Next time post it yourself, sheesh!  :)

Seth
 
I've not used my LR-32 yet but so this may not work, but why not just join the LR32 rail w/ a regular rail that's long enough so you can clamp both ends.  Drill the holes on one end and then move the regular rail to the other end of the LR32 rail, repositon and clamp.

Any reason this won't work ok?

Fred
 
bruegf said:
I've not used my LR-32 yet but so this may not work, but why not just join the LR32 rail w/ a regular rail that's long enough so you can clamp both ends.   Drill the holes on one end and then move the regular rail to the other end of the LR32 rail, repositon and clamp.

Any reason this won't work ok?

Fred

Fred, that does work, I've done it before. I mentioned this in some thread when Dave Ronyak ask this same qusetion. There's more info on how to align the holes in that thread too.

Here's the link, LR32 how-to, reply 41 is where the discussion starts.
 
      Ok here's what I did yesterday due to my short comings (only have the short perforated rail).  I was making some 8' tall cabinets out of MDF core melamine and wanted to just put holes all the way up both sides.  Since I only have the 42" rail I had to so some hopping around with it.  I saw the discussion on it and frankly none of it helped much (I couldn't understand Jerry's idea because he needs to upload a picture or two!, Ok Jerry?)  It would sure be a lot less hassle if you have the 95" rail and I think even easier and more handy if Festool sold a perfed 106" rail.  Well so I started out and got really tired, really quick putting on  and taking off the 2 side stops (shouldn't those have the securing knob top instead of side mounted? What a pain they are at times to loosen) and putting them back on.  Since you can't really use the router on the sled for many of the holes with them on.  Anyway I have a 106" standard rail so I put the side stops on my perfed rail and used that to align my 106" rail up on the work piece.  I went side to side to ensure they were butted and in the right place and clamped the long rail to the work piece.  I did all my alignment from the bottom edge of the work piece so that all holes were lined up (my work piece was not in 32mm increments so I couldn't reference off both ends)  You can see I used a wooden hand screw clamp to secure the rail because they have such a deep throat.  I drilled the first set of holes as far as I could and then removed the linear stop and clamp.  I slid the rail down and used the router to index the next series of holes and reinstalled the wooden clamp.  On the 3rd move (yes it took 3 positions) I used a clamp under the rail so that I could go all the way to the end without a clamp getting in the way.  It should be pretty easy to see in the pictures what really happened and how to do it.  This is not an ideal situation but if you're dealing with what you have on hand, what the heck.  Changeover time was actually very short.  Once you get into a rhythm you can bang these out quickly and accurately.  I had no more than 1/16" difference in hole spacing from end of work piece to last hole on the 6 sides (12 rows) that I ran yesterday.  That's actually more than accurate for my needs on this project.  Hope this helps someone. 

Chris...

 
Michael,

It's my cutting table that I made to clamp on to a Dewalt miter saw stand.  Very sturdy, very portable.  There are a couple of pics at this link Stand Pics 

Eiji,  Thanks!

Attached is a picture of the cabinets I threw together last weekend.  Mike (TahoeTwoBears) was coming over yesterday so I just had to throw the stuff in the cabinets to get it all off the floor.  They will actually be organized better in the near future.  They are Melamine coated MDF, I sized them for the containers that you see in them.  26.5" Wide X 18" Deep x 96" Tall.  I'm actually going to be building another one today that will be deeper to hold drawer slides and stuff like that.  All containers that hold parts will have part numbers, where they were ordered from and order qty. 

Chris...
 
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