Anyone experienced with Flashing?

[erock]

Do you want to use acetone on the cut ends to "seal" the ends of Azek?

I thought I read some place that acetone should be used on Azek to "seal" the ends before painting.

Plus,  you want to scuff Azek for the paint to adhere to with at lease 220 grit.    No?

Eric

 

[skids]

Do you want to use acetone on the cut ends to "seal" the ends of Azek?

I thought I read some place that acetone should be used on Azek to "seal" the ends before painting.

Plus,  you want to scuff Azek for the paint to adhere to with at lease 220 grit.    No?

Eric

Yeah I think you're right, they even sell their own cements for this..I think when you cut it you expose the pore structure and the acetone stuff closes it back up. Otherwise it will collect dirt and grime and be off color. Something like that...

I have never really worked extensively with the stuff, just some brick molding installs. I can tell you it sucks to cut..Picture static charged sawdust!

 

[tjbnwi]

Yes, hit all the cuts with acetone, it lays out the core.

Tom

 

[skids]

Tom looking for your blessing on this! Basically I got the copper up real nice under the protecto then essentially extended the protecto downward with vycor, reheated and bonded.

So before I peel the tape on the vycor want to run this past you. Because this copper really grabs the vycor can't repeal it.

Last step will be the two jamb legs that will run over this.

Thanks again!!

 

[Brice Burrell]

Do you want to use acetone on the cut ends to "seal" the ends of Azek?

I thought I read some place that acetone should be used on Azek to "seal" the ends before painting.

Plus,  you want to scuff Azek for the paint to adhere to with at lease 220 grit.    No?

Eric

Supposedly there is no need to scuff before paint.  I don't, no problems so far. 

 

[tjbnwi]

Looks good. Should be easy from here on out.

Tom

 

[skids]

Looks good. Should be easy from here on out.

Tom

Yep! Lookin forward to the rest of it..thanks Tom!

 

[skids]

Tom, quick question for ya.

Does it make sense to extend the length of the kick board length beyond the jamb sill I intersection to minimize that joint?

In other words make the kick board wider than the entire door width.

Thx!

 

[tjbnwi]

If you go with the board longer than the door, make it end at the outside of the verticals. You need to put a Z flashing over the top of the kick board then install your side casing.

Tom

 

[skids]

If you go with the board longer than the door, make it end at the outside of the verticals. You need to put a Z flashing over the top of the kick board then install your side casing.

Tom

Ok thanks but doesn't that create essentially the same issue if I end at the outside vert of the brick molding I am adding to the jambs?

 

[tjbnwi]

If you go with the board longer than the door, make it end at the outside of the verticals. You need to put a Z flashing over the top of the kick board then install your side casing.

Tom

Ok thanks but doesn't that create essentially the same issue if I end at the outside vert of the brick molding I am adding to the jambs?

Sorry for the delay, for some reason I could not get on to FOG yesterday.

If your using a thicker vertical (brick mould), than the kick board, then I would end the kick board at the door edge, run the vertical past the kick board. If the vertical and kick board are the same thickness, bevel the kick board at 15º where the vertical will land on it, miter the vertical at 15º. Done this way the water will always run down hill. I've also padded out the kick board 1/4", it makes a nice detail with the bevel showing.

As long as you flash horizontal members properly, you should have no problems. A small piece of flashing with the leg bent up behind the vertical and over the top of the kick board with a small down lip will not cause any issues.

Tom

 

[skids]

If you go with the board longer than the door, make it end at the outside of the verticals. You need to put a Z flashing over the top of the kick board then install your side casing.

Tom

Ok thanks but doesn't that create essentially the same issue if I end at the outside vert of the brick molding I am adding to the jambs?

Sorry for the delay, for some reason I could not get on to FOG yesterday.

If your using a thicker vertical (brick mould), than the kick board, then I would end the kick board at the door edge, run the vertical past the kick board. If the vertical and kick board are the same thickness, bevel the kick board at 15º where the vertical will land on it, miter the vertical at 15º. Done this way the water will always run down hill. I've also padded out the kick board 1/4", it makes a nice detail with the bevel showing.

As long as you flash horizontal members properly, you should have no problems. A small piece of flashing with the leg bent up behind the vertical and over the top of the kick board with a small down lip will not cause any issues.

Tom

Thanks Tom!

I used 5 1/4 PVC trim board and ripped it down along with PVC brick Mould, and did some of what you said above. I was so preoccupied with getting the siding back on and flashing down the jambs correctly this weekend. I do like that flashing detail between the last piece of siding and last piece of decking. I have to hit it with some sika at the joint edges of the two overlapped pieces to get rid of the egdes, but I don't think it should be an issue cutting any feet anyway. I feel good about all the flash details you've guided me on.
Thanks again!

 

[tjbnwi]

Appears as if it all worked out for you. Hope you get a chance to enjoy it the rest of the summer.

You're welcome, happy to help.

Tom